Путешествие по острову Кефалония. Часть 2

Кефалония богата достопримечательностями. Лучшие пляжи, разнообразная природа, пещеры, крепости, легенды — как все увидеть и ничего не пропустить, читайте в этой заметке.

Продолжение путешествия по острову Кефалония, Греция.

Начало ЗДЕСЬ

Заселившись в отель и оставив там кое-какие вещи, мы поехали в другу часть острова. Отель Odyseas Studios можно найти по таверне Zorbas. Кстати, в Лурдате воду можно пить прямо из-под крана. Она здесь родниковая. А в Аргостоли нет.

Вечером мы будем ужинать в этой таверне, а пока поехали в порт Песады (Pesada) уточнять расписание парома на Закинтос. Умудренные опытом и предыдущими разочарованиями, знаем, что самую верную информацию можно найти только в порту. Непосредственно у человека в будке kassa.

Порт нашли по навигатору.  Где дорога съезжала к морю в этом городе, туда и поехали. Машину оставили сначала на специально отведенной территории Parking, спустились пешком. Навстречу шли два велотуриста, катившие свои велосипеды вверх в горку. Спрашиваем у них: «Где здесь порт?» Они показывают вниз. Идите, мол, туда.

Спускаемся к самой воде…. Ощущение двоякое.

Порт на порт не похож. Какие-то моторные лодки, кораблик на пеньках. Наверное, ремонтировать его начали еще в прошлом тысячелетии. Как-то безжизненно он выглядит…    Да еще эти гуси-лебеди.  Купаются в море, гогочут.

В голове происходит разрыв шаблонов. Действительность не совпадает с придуманной картинкой. А где касса? Где расписание на бумажке? Где паром, в конце-концов???

Видим, дорога уходит дальше за поворот. Идем туда. Нашли!

Спускаемся машиной, ищем кассовую будку. Но ее нигде нет! На пароме слышны какие-то строительные работы. Что-то громко рокочет, сварка летит кометами. Он вообще действующий???  Ищем людей, чтоб задать этот вопрос.

Спрашиваем у работника в оранжевом комбинезоне. Тот говорит уверено:

«Да, завтра поедем. Сегодня ремонт. Билеты? Так нет никого. Приходите завтра, за полчаса до отправления вот здесь за столиком будет сидеть человек и продавать билеты. Расписание? А вот возьмите рекламку, там всё написано»

Пользуясь случаем и отсутствием туристов, снимаем видео для клипов и уезжаем.

Едем в сторону полуострова Ассос, пересекая остров вдоль. Дорога петляет серпантинами, ограничивает скорость движения. Не ожидали мы, что Кефалония окажется такая гористая!

Ближе к пункту назначения натыкаемся на неприятный сюрприз.

Дорога на  Ассос закрыта. То ли обвал, то ли ремонт.  Едем в объезд.

Решила историю путешествия в Ассос написать отдельным постом. Уж очень красивая и самобытная деревенька! Достойна похвал от туристов.

Ассос — райское место Кефалонии

ksi

Много читали о самом необычном пляже Кефалонии — КСИ, подобного нет на других Ионических островах. Держим путь туда.

По пути решаем посетить Миртос — один из красивейших пляжей Ионического моря, визитная карточка Кефалонии. Белая галька, бирюзовая вода, Голубые флаги, туристическая инфраструктура — все это здесь есть. Очень популярное место. Его фотками забито пол-интернета. Знакомство начинаем со смотровой.

Спускаемся ниже. Пляж красивый, но смотровые площадки отсутствуют. Чтоб сделать фото, находим пятачок, чтоб безопасно оставить машину на дороге и лезем через сетку. Не продумали как-то греки осмотр своих лучших достопримечательностей… Вот турки, например, не скупятся, и ради отличного вида готовы пол-горы снести. Лишь бы туда влез автобус с туристами.

На самом деле пляж Миртос очень красивый. ДА, на самом деле вода такого цвета. Без обработки.

Но как это часто бывает, лучшие виды на природную достопримечательность бывают сверху.  Вблизи всё уже не выглядит таким красивым и идеально белым.

Проезжаем деревушку с весёлым названием. Тормозим прямо за знаком.

Карина радуется, говорит: нашли папину Родину :))

Agios Dimitrios — Святой Дмитрий. Очень почитаемый в стране господин.

О его мученичестве, христианских подвигах и исповеднических тайных обрядах написаны тонны книг. Шел третий век христианства. Инакомыслящих сжигали, бросали в темницы, отдавали на съедение диким зверям. Этого Дмитрия Солунского пронзили копьями. Его соратники, конечно, горевали, окропили кровью место гибели. Потом построили там храм и в последствии признали его святым.

Упоминания об этом Солунском Димитриосе можно встретить в балладе о Вещем Олеге, ратных подвигах Дмитрия Донского и даже в каноне святых равноапостольных Кирилла и Мефодия.

В общем, сейчас Agios Dimitrios также популярен, как полвека назад В.И.Ленин в СССР.  Его именем названы школы, храмы, деревни и города.

Небо затягивается тучами, всю дорогу до пляжа КСИ нависает над нами, хмурясь и чернея. Но мы упрямо едем на пляж с необычным красным песком.

Пляж Кси на Кефалонии является одним из 20 наиболее необычных мире, в соответствии с недавней публикацией большого туристического журнала Travel + Leisyri.

Вот такие фотки мы видели в интернете. Заманчиво, правда?

Фото с сайта www.ilovegreece.ru

Пляж XI  расположен на юге полуострова Палики  в 8 км от Ликсури.

Пляж удобен для семейного отдыха. Море мелкое, идеально подходит для купания маленьких детей. Песок мягкий, темно-желтый с красноватым оттенком. Но не такой яркий, как на рекламных фото. И белые скалы не очень и белые, если присмотреться. Как говорится, почувствуй разницу:)

Как любят шутить в соцсетях: ожидание и реальность

Фактически παραλία Ξι это один большой пляж с соседним Мегас Лаккос (восточнее от Кси), там такой же песок.  Название пляжа связано с его очертанием, которое напоминает греческую букву «кси»

Координаты навигатора:  N 38° 9.639´ E 20° 25.028´

Заход в море напоминает наш Геническ — десять минут бредешь в мелководье, чтоб потом  окунуться.

Мы уходили подальше к скалам. Там песок чище и людей меньше. На берегу возвышается отель-пакетник, поэтому все шезлонги предусмотрены для них. Есть вип-кабинки с камышовыми крышами и белыми занавесками. Но все какое-то грязненькое, второсортное… Может, всему виной надвигающийся шторм? Нет яркого солнца и все выглядит уныло? Мы пробыли на пляже около часа. С неба резко полил дождь, пришлось спасаться бегством.

Ликсури ( Lixouri ) — это главный город района Палики и второй по численности населения город на острове. Еще его называют второй столицей Кефалонии.

После сильнейших землетрясений 1867,1953 и 2014 годов  Ликсури очень сильно пострадал, уничтожено большинство зданий города, многие старинные храмы с высокими колокольнями. Отстроены заново: дворец Иаковатов, в котором находится одноименная библиотека, библиотеки Петрицион и Филармонической Школы.

Но нам некогда было изучать Ликсури, хотелось быстрее приехать в Лурдату и предаться ужину.  А пока ищем порт, чтоб переправиться паромом в Аргостоли. Дорожных указателей нет.

Карта маршрута от пляжа Кси до  отеля в Лурдате.

lurdataЕдем к морю наугад. Петляем по переулкам. Там одностороннее, там «кирпич». Где порт? Вырулили. Новый вопрос: где билетная касса?

Стали в очередь, машины потихоньку продвигаются ближе к парому, но у нас билетов нет.  Будка кассы отсутствует.

Я обошла всю пристань, позаглядывала в закрытые киоски, почитала информационные стенды, но ответ на вопрос не нашла. Пришлось пристать к туристам в очереди. Они объяснили, что оплата билетов происходит на пароме. Как в трамвае — ходит кондуктор и обилечивает пассажиров :-)

Стоимость билетов: взрослый — 2,60 €   детский — 1,3 €   машина — 4 €

Итого 9,20 €    время в пути 20 минут

Ужинаем в таверне Zorgas при нашем отеле. Хозяин одет в белую рубашку, встречает всех у входа. Разговаривает с посетителями, шутит, многих целует в щечку. Наверное, постоянные клиенты.

Поваром работает женщина из Украины, мы у нее расспросили все о кухне. Она рассказала как выбирают морепродукты, как чистят рыбу и прочие секретики.  Мы такие голодные были после всех этих поездок по острову, что заказали кучу всего разного и эти блюда показались нам самыми вкусными!

Взяли фотик с собой, но снимки сделали только при входе. Потом заболтались с хозяином и проглотили ужин, забыв сделать снимки :-)

Кстати, вино Robóla, которым славится Кефалония, не впечатлило. Кислятина какая-то за 8 €. Хозяин отеля (и таверны) м-р Маринос говорит, что это вино в разных частях острова совершенно разное. Потому что на всей Кефалонии десятки сортов винограда сорта Робола.   Задаем вопросы о греческом кризисе. В ресторане 30 столиков и только пять из них заняты. Он пожимает плечами. «Сегодня нет людей из-за погоды, а так всё ок. Семейный бизнес, сын и дочь помогают».

Рыба на гриле,  греческий салат «хорьятики»,  печеный картофель в фольге с лимоном и оливковым маслом, куриное филе с ананасом. Карине принесли фруктовый салат и мороженое — комплимент от хозяина. Доедали уже в комнате.

Вдалеке виден паром в порту Pesada.

Собираем вещи, набираем питьевую воду для завтрашнего кемпинга на острове Закинтос, готовим в дорогу бутерброды.

Ложимся спать в час ночи.

Будильник ставим на 6 утра.

Продолжение путешествия по Ионическим островам читайте в следующих заметках.

Понравилась запись?

Поделись с друзьями!

НЕ будь жадиной:))


Кнопки соцсетей находятся ниже

 

 

 

 

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  62. The fresh new Zune browser is shockingly beneficial, but not as very good as the iPod’s. It will work perfectly, still isn’t really as instantaneous as Safari, and is made up of a clunkier interface. If your self once in a while plan upon applying the web browser that is not an issue, however if you happen to be creating toward read the net alot from your PMP then the iPod’s much larger display and far better browser may possibly be considerable.

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