Путешествие по острову Кефалония

Кормление черепах на набережной Аргостоли,  церковь Пресвятой Богородицы в деревне Маркопуло, пляж Миртос и пляж КСИ  с красным песком, паром Lixouri — Argostoli — всё, что можно увидеть на острове Кефалония за один день, путешествуя на машине.

Остров Кефалония находится ровно посередине Ионического моря и славится своими шикарными пляжами, пещерами, храмами, монастырями и природными ландшафтами. По одной из легенд, назван остров в честь царя Кефала, который был сослан на остров из Аттики за убийство своей жены, дочери Афинского царя Эрехфея. Длина его береговой линии превышает 250 км, а самая высокая точка – гора Энос – поднялась на 1628 метров над уровнем моря.

Столицей греческого острова Кефалония является курортный город Аргостоли (Аргостолион), расположен на берегу залива Кутавос, с населением около 9000 жителей. По одной из версий название произошло от фамилии семьи Аргостолис – владельцев местности. По другой – от порта, означающего в переводе: «флот задерживается»

Аэропорт в Кефалонии расположен вблизи деревни Минис, в 10 км от города Аргостоли

Аргостоли (Argostoli) cтал столицей острова в 1757 году, после того как население старой столицы Агиос Георгиос (известной как Кастро) переместилось с гористой местности в хорошо защищенную природную бухту. Это дало возможность наладить жителям прочные торговые связи и привело город к процветанию и экономическому росту.

Уютный городок с множеством великолепных зданий венецианской эпохи был практически полностью разрушен во время сильного землетрясения  в 1953 году.

Знаменитым на весь мир  Аргостоли стал благодаря съемкам голливудского фильма «Выбор капитана Корелли» с Николасом Кейджем и Пенелопой Крус в главных ролях. Съемочная группа построила Аргостоли таким, как он выглядел в 40-х годах перед землетрясением. Настоящий город-порт абсолютно не похож на тот, который показывают на экране.  Местные жители до сих пор вспоминают с благодарным вздохом. Во время съемок, в  2001-м прибрежные рестораны в городке Сами «подняли» в три раза больше дохода против обычного. И только потому, что закрыли свои заведения в угоду киношникам, дабы последние могли спокойно снимать суровую военную атмосферу, а не царящий здесь летом праздник жизни.

После двух дней релакса на пляже, решили поездить по острову и посмотреть интересности, которыми он напичкан. Туристические достопримечательности в виде знаменитых пляжей, уютных бухт и легендарных пещер соседствуют с менее известными, но по силе впечатлений не менее интересными местами на карте Кефалонии.

1 июля 2015 года, проснувшись с рассветом, мы отправились в путешествие.

Начало ЗДЕСЬ

В каких-то туристических отчетах наткнулись на информацию о черепахах вида Каретта-Каретта (Caretta Caretta), приплывающих в столицу позавтракать ровно в 9.00. Представляете? Эти панцерные животные, занесенные в Красную Книгу, мигрируют от острова Закинф, где откладывают яйца, к набережной Аргостоли, чтобы  полакомиться свежим уловом. Как раз в это время из моря возвращаются рыбаки, раскладывают прямо на лодках улов на продажу, а мелких рыбешек бросают за борт на корм черепахам.  Получился такой бесплатный туристический аттракцион.

Едем из Пороса в Аргостоли мимо деревушки Маркопуло, известной на всю Грецию удивительным событием, ставшим легендой.

poros-markopuloОднажды в уютную бухту Маркопуло высадились пираты и решили ограбить женский монастырь, сверкающий золотыми куполами. Монахини от всей души молились перед иконой Богородицы «Лангуварда», просили о защите. Когда пираты высадились на берег и решили открыть ворота женского монастыря, им навстречу выползло большое количество ядовитых змей, которые угрожающе шипели и нападали. Пираты в ужасе бежали, а икона получила название «Змеева».

Та самая бухта

Церковь была закрыта, внутрь мы не попали

Верующие утверждают, что близ двух деревень Маркопуло и Аргиния начало происходить ежегодное чудо.

Перед праздником Успения Божией Матери, с 6 по 15 августа, в обеих деревнях появляются змейки. Их особенность в том, что на их головах имеются миниатюрные крестики. Змейки совершенно безвредные и считается, что появляются они как знаменатели праздника Матери Божией. В другое время года их увидеть невозможно. Жители деревень собирают богородичных змеек и несут в храмы, чтобы верующие их увидели и осознали величие силы Господа.

В Аргостоли мы приехали ровно в 9.00 и с трудом нашли место для парковки.

argostoli

Набережная красивая, выложенная изгибами, украшенная пальмами. Вдали виднеются рыболовецкие суденышки.

Это импровизированный «плавучий рыбный рынок», где улов продают прямо с лодок.

Набережная  — это зона отдыха, где сосредоточена вся жизнь столицы острова. Здесь все перемешано: порт, таверны, сувенирные лавки, машины, пальмы, люди, лодки, запах рыбы. И еще черепахи. Да, они приплыли!

Ровно в 9.00, как по расписанию :-)

Среди туристов были люди, которые пришли на набережную купить свежей рыбы, ничего не зная о ежедневном утреннем ритуале, но увидев черепах, стали дружно их фотографировать. Бегать вдоль пирса с мобильными телефонами и восклицать что-то типа: «посмотри сюда, сейчас вылетит птичка»

Черепахам это сумасшествие было до лампочки, они плавали вокруг лодок, надеясь на прикорм. Наблюдать за гонкой «кто кого» — туристы или черепахи — было весело:)))

Рыбаки лениво зевали, торговали скудненьким уловом и переговаривались с покупателями. И никто из них не собирался кормить «водных попрошаек». А как же рассказы путешественников? Черепахи так и уплывут без завтрака?

Мы решили это безобразие прекратить. Покупать кило рыбы за 5 евро не имело смысла, попросили продать одну.  Рыбак махнул рукой и отдал рыбешку просто так.

Помимо туристов с мобилками и фотоаппаратами, за черепахами наблюдали молодые люди в синих футболках с эмблемой всемирной волонтерской организации.

Я подошла к одной девушке из этой команды и расспросила чем они здесь занимаются.

Девушка-волонтер сказала, что приехала в Грецию на каникулы из Лондона (!) понаблюдать за черепашками. У нее секундомер и тетрадь с записями, где они фиксируют время прибытия, пол, настроение каждого исследуемого объекта, общее количество приплывших сегодня подопечных, прием пищи, сектор передвижения, какую активность проявляют и в котором часу уплывут.

«Я бы хотела, чтоб забота о черепахах стала моей работой, — говорит девушка, — это исчезающий вид, надо следить, чтобы люди их не тревожили. Но пока я волонтер, приезжаю из Англии второй год подряд и считаю, что это лучшие каникулы в жизни»

Мы впечатлились немного ее рассказами и поехали искать маяк, который видели на всех магнитах Кефалонии. Дорогу уточнили у полицейской дамы, она сказала, что маяк находится рядом. От набережной Аргостоли каких-то 2 км. И еще сказала, что на Закинтос можно отплыть паромом из Пессады. Из порта Аргостоли паромы на соседний остров не ходят. Я уточнила расписание в кассе. Маршрута на Закинф нет.

Маяк  Аргостоли

«Фанари» Святых Теодоров — это полное имя маяка, названного в честь маленькой церкви, расположенной неподалёку. Находится в 2 км от города Аргостоли.

Маяк Святых Теодоров в 1828 году начал строить  британский губернатор Кефалонии Чарльз Напьер, и завершилось строительство через год. Маяк и сегодня находится в рабочем состоянии. Туристов привлекает, прежде всего, архитектурой сооружения (20 белых колон по 4 метра) и красивым видом.

Согласно преданию, маяк Святых Теодоров обязан своей формой небольшой ветряной мельнице, находящейся неподалёку и вдохновившей архитекторов. В 1864 году, после Объединения Ионических островов с Грецией, он вошёл во всеобщую греческую систему маяков. Землетрясения 1953 года полностью разрушили первоначально построенное здание. Но примерно лет 10 спустя, в 1964 году, маяк Святых Теодоров был вновь построен в соответствии с первоначальным проектом.

38.19137,20.46779 38°11’28”N 20°28’4”E

Мы подождали пока разъедутся туристы, и захватили маяк как локацию для съемок.

Часы показывали полдень.  Покидая столицу острова, мы планировали где-то перекусить. В наших планах было:

*** посетить красивенный полуостров Ассос с одноименным замком на макушке горы,

*** купить билет на паром в порту Pоessada до острова Закинтос (на завтра),

*** заехать на пляж Миртос, удостоенный всяческих похвал от туристов,

*** попляжиться на краснопесочном берегу Xi Beach — самом удивительном месте на всех Ионических островах,

*** переправиться паромом из Аргостоли в Ликсури (вторую столицу острова),

*** поужинать в ресторане чем-то истинно кефалонским.

И всё это успеть за один день.   Сегодня!

А пока мы поехали заселяться в отель, оставить там кое-какие вещи и привести себя в порядок после двухдневного дикого отдыха.

Отель в Лурдате (Lourdata) искали долго из-за неточности в координатах навигатора.

Отель Odyseas Studios   смело рекомендую, на сайте «Букинга» есть мой отзыв. Трехместный номер-студио за 30 евро с балконом и прекрасным видом на море.

Семейный отель  Odysseas Studios  расположен посреди роскошного сада в деревне Влахата, в пешей доступности от пляжа Лурдата. В номере есть кондиционер, балкон, телевизор, мини-кухня с холодильником и плитой, а также собственная ванная комната с душем.

Хозяин отеля встречает, зовет в таверну, знакомит с поваром из Украины. Решаем вечером поужинать здесь. В самом деле, завтра уезжаем с острова, а чего-тот ультра-местного (кроме вина Робола) так и не пробовали. 

Едем в порт Pesada. На дорожных указателях пишется так:  с одной «s»

Приключения на острове Кефалония начинаются.

На часах всего 12:00 и громадная куча планов!

 

Начало ЗДЕСЬ. Продолжение СЛЕДУЕТ

 

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