Кемпинг на острове Кефалония

Кефалония — самый большой из группы ионических островов Греции. Как найти лучшее место для отдыха, если вы путешествуете на машине? Любителям палаточного отдыха и бесплатных пляжей посвящается:)

В Кефалонию влюбляешься сразу. Она не похожа на пыльную Лефкаду, разрекламированный Закинф, более гористая и многообразная. Природа покоряет уникальными черными соснами, запахом цветов и меда, яркой синевой моря, цветущими пышными кустами  и яркой жизнью, будто у кефалонцев вечный праздник под названием «лето».

Кефалония была заселена почти за 50 тыс. лет до н.э. Представляете сколько всего интересного и древнего там сохранилось? Хватит ли нам пяти дней, отведенных на изучение этого острова? Начинаем сомневаться, но пока ищем место для ночевки.

На острове много песчаных пляжей, много с белой галькой, есть дикие и с развитой инфраструктурой, с уютными заливчиками и чистым прозрачным морем. Большинство пляжей удостоены «Голубых флагов» ЕС за чистоту морских вод и береговую инфраструктуру.  В 2006 г. журнал Форбс выделил пляж Миртос среди европейских пляжей как один из самых чистых и красивых в Европе.

Пляж Антисамос.   Тот самый пляж, где Голливуд снимал фильм «Выбор Капитана Корелли» с Пенелопой Крус и Николасом Кейджем.

Вид с дороги, ведущей к пляжу.  Едем вниз, хотим найти место под палатку.

Парковка бесплатная, зонты с шезлонгами тоже free.

Прошлись по пляжу.  Людей куча! Таверны, лужайки, бесконечных хоровод водных аттракционов. Свободных мест нет.

Прошлись по грунтовой дороге, которую видели со смотровой (справа вдоль берега), поняли, что здесь не станем. Поехали к пляжам, которые отметили еще из дому на гугл-сниках как дикие.

Кефалония — идеальное место для отдыха на автомобиле: прекрасно развитая дорожная сеть доходит до любого уголка острова.

Кемпингов на острове два: Кемпинг «Argostoli» в 1,5 км от города Аргостолли и Karavomilos. Судя по отзывам, второй лучше. Едем к нему.

Karavomilos находится возле города Салли. Кемпинг зачетный! Много места, есть все удобства:  кухня, душевые, стиральные машины, wi-fi и даже бассейн. Места под палатки среди деревьев и для машины рядом есть место. Въезд в кемпинг начинается с пляжа. В общем, одни плюсы. И мы бы остались, если бы не стоимость.  В переводе на гривны 2 ночи в кемпинге = месячной зарплате украинского учителя :-(

Поехали искать дальше.

К своему безумному удивлению нашли чудесное место возле города Poros. Заехали в конец городского пляжа Ammouso Beach, прошлись ножками до скалы и видим мягкое плато из высохших водорослей как раз под палатку. Походили, потоптались, прикинули как съехать машиной и решили, что если лучшего варианта не найдем, сюда обязательно вернемся. Уютное уединенное местечко, с двух сторон прикрытое горой от ветра, пляж — круглая белая галька. Солнце будет вставать над морем, заглядывая лучами в палатку.

Поехали по дороге дальше. На гугл-карте  дорога уходит влево, а место мы нашли прямо (ехать по грунтовке до упора). Бумажная карта и навигатор в один голос уверяли, что впереди нас ждут еще два пляжа. Безлюдных, диких. Дорога уводит вверх все выше и превращается в булыжник. Ехать становится тяжело, машина буксует в песке, острые камни грозят исцарапать дно. Выходим, дальше идем пешком. Куда-то же эта дорога ведёт? Вдруг там впереди райский пляж, а мы не доехали пару метров? Но дорога упирается в какой-то курятник, огороженный сеткой. Птицы всполошились, подняли крик, но больше никто не появился. Дорога закончилась, пляж отсутствовал. Вернулись в город Порос. Затарились в супермаркете на несколько дней продуктами, вином Robola, которое изготавливают только на Кефалонии, едем к пляжу.

В конце дороги, где нам надо съезжать вниз, две машины — BG и местные каякеры. Больше на пляже никого, а в «нашем месте» совсем безлюдно. Съезжаем. И грузнем в подушке из водорослей. Почва рыхлая, увязли по самый бампер. Туда-сюда дергаемся. Самим не выбраться. Никак.

Выгружаем вещи из багажника, будем толкать. Своими действиями привлекаем отдыхающих. К нам подходят два дядьки спортивного телосложения, предлагают помощь. Дима мужественно отказывается, говорит, что справимся сами. Я начинаю паниковать, понимая, что без буксира никак. Оторванный брызговик наводит ужас, пляж превращается в злодейский омут и мне кажется, что в этом песке мы останемся навсегда…

Мужики нас особо не слушают, подгоняют свою машину ближе, разматывают трос, рассказывают, что приехали из Рима и отдыхают здесь вторую неделю. Интересуемся у них, видели они туристов с палаткой в том месте, которое мы присмотрели. Говорят: да, бывают. Но остается ли кто-то здесь на ночь, не знают. Уверяют, что проблем не будет. Решаем машину оставить на дороге, а вещи перенести ручками.

Спрашиваю у спасителей не будут ли они против, если я буду снимать этот процесс crazy trip на видео? Смеются, не возражают.

Видео нашего спасения. Как итальянцы спасали украинцев на греческом пляже:)

Раскладываем лагерь, обживаемся. Почва каменистая, колышки вбиваем молотком. На ужин салат «хорьятики» и гречка с тушенкой. Пьем вино, рыбачим, наслаждаемся закатом. Место отличное! Если полиция не сгонит, решаем пробыть тут две ночи.

Греция — это море, солнце, пляж. Вот оно, все здесь:)

Утро началось необычно. Примерно в шесть утра прям над головой послышался звук колокольчика. Легкий такой, дребезжащий. Проснулась, выглянула из палатки и поняла, что больше не усну.

Рядом в кустах, растущих на горе, паслись козы. Это они звенели колокольчиками. Но меня это уже не волновало. Природа просыпалась и это было потрясающее зрелище!!!

Утром тихо-тихо, безветренно. Слышно, как в порту рокочет паром. Чайки летают над водой. Приятно и красиво. Пью кофе, сидя в шезлонге, смотрю как утреннее солнышко краснеет из-за туч, пишу эти строки в блокнот. Кайф….

Просыпаются мои туристы. Готовим завтрак, включаем радио, ловим почему-то итальянскую волну и слушаем темпераментные мелодии. Начинается новый день.

Играли в бадминтон, купались в гладком прозрачном море, снимали видео для будущего летнего клипа, ели, пили вино, собирали камешки с причудливыми рисунками и наслаждались последним июньским днем.

К обеду стали появляться туристы.

Вернулись наши вчерашние спасатели, пара нудистов пенсионного возраста, семья с девочкой Каринкиного возраста на прокатной машине. Эта девочка потом подошла к Карине, познакомилась, позвала играть. Дети быстрее находят общий язык, чем взрослые. Пара фраз на английском и они уже друзья

«Where are you from?« — спрашиваем девочку.

«Чекарипабари» — отвечает она.

Зависли оба.

Что за Чунга-Чанга такая? Где эта страна? Или это город? Переспрашиваем.

«Чекари — Пабари» — уверенно отвечает девочка.

Что это?????????   Где это???????????

Третий раз переспрашивать не стали. Сидим, думаем.

Вроде бы с географией дружим, основные туристические страны знаем, но все равно чувствуем себя полными идиотами. Мозг плавится от напряжения, но память ничего не воспроизводит. Сознание потухло.

«Чекарипабари» — становится навязчивой идеей. Мухой, настырно жужжащей в голове.

Дима додумался разделить на слоги и найти созвучные слова. Как вы думаете, откуда приехала девочка?   Пишите в комментариях :)

Мы потом пообщались и с ней, и с ее родителями. Обменялись контактами и пожелали друг другу хорошего отдыха в Греции.

Вечером запекали картошку с салом на углях, вкусно ужинали и постарались не засиживаться допоздна. Следующий день был насыщен грандиозными планами. Сами пока не понимали, как все успеем, но цель поставили, значит, сможем!

Когда полностью стемнело, запустили в небо фонарики. Они поплыли по безветренному ночному небу в сторону города. Красивые огненные сердечки, как наш пламенный привет жителям Пороса.

Завтра нас ждет круговое путешествие по острову Кефалония.

Продолжение  СЛЕДУЕТ. Начало ЗДЕСЬ

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