Прокат лодок на Лефкаде, Нидри

Время от времени я, как и все люди, читаю или смотрю новости. И пребываю в твердой уверенности, что в Греции — *опа, т.е. кризис

Но все меняется, когда ты смотришь на эту страну изнутри, а не по телевизору.

«Какой там кризис!» — кричали мы, разглядывая битком набитые туристами таверны.

«У вас кризис?» — удивлялись мы, глядя на очереди к экскурсионным корабликам.

«И это в кризис?» — пожимали плечами, когда узнавали, что прокатные лодки забронированы на 2 недели вперед. А нам досталась одна свободная, доставленная с другого причала.

Городок Нидри для меня стал открытием. Новым взглядом на Грецию.

Начало ЗДЕСЬ


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В городе Nydri предварительно перед поездкой забронировали небольшой отель Calderimi Pension. Отельчик небольшой, на 9 номеров, окружен оливковыми рощами,  в 800 метрах от центра города Нидри. Открытый бассейн, терраса с шезлонгами и бесплатный Wi-Fi. В номерах санузел, кондиционер, телевизор с плоским экраном, мини-кухня с холодильником, печкой и посудой.

Превосходное место, рекомендую! Рейтинг на Букинге 9,2

Мы здесь на две ночи, поэтому завтрашний день полностью посвятим катанию на лодке. Именно Нидри советуют путешественники выбрать отправной точкой для водных поездок и изучению острова.

На набережной организовано много пунктов проката, за 50-70 евро можно забронировать любую понравившуюся лодку. Отличаются размерами и мощностью мотора. Много прокатных корабликов было уже забронировано туристами, из свободных выбрали лодку с тентом 25 л.с. за 50 евро.

0384Утром следующего дня мы запаслись провизией, оформили документы (ФИО, номер телефона) и взяли лодку на весь день.

Прокатчик написал свой номер телефона на тот случай, если мы заблудимся и уплывем в территориальные воды:), заправил полный бак (40л) и дал дополнительно канистру бензина (10л). Снабдил картой с отмеченным радиусом свободного передвижения, сказал, что будет ждать нас в 18.00 здесь на пристани.

Мы подняли якорь и и отправились навстречу приключениям.

Дикий восторг! Брызги летят по сторонам, водная стихия послушно рассекается носом, ты сам управляешь скоростью, выбираешь маршрут следования и вообще чувствуешь себя родственником Посейдона.

Минут через 15, когда привыкли к мирному покачиванию на волнах, Карину возвели в ранг капитана и доверили штурвал. Она сначала боялась, скидывала скорость, но потом обрела уверенность и гоняла на катере как заправский морской волк!

Проплыли мимо острова Скорпиос ( Σκορπιός)

Окутанный легендами и трагической мистикой, он не мог не привлечь нашего внимания.

Основная территория острова сплошь покрыта лесом с несколькими пляжами. На острове стоят три виллы, есть вертолётная площадка и причал для яхт, проложены дорожки для прогулок и создан искусственный пляж из белого песка.

фото из интернета
ИСТОРИЯ

Греческий магнат Аристотель Онассис приобрел эту «жемчужину Ионического моря» в 1963 году за 3,5 млн. драхм, что в то время соответствовало 10 тысячам фунтов стерлингов. Именно на этом острове в 1968 году прошла свадьба греческого судового магната и вдовы президента США Джеки Кеннеди. Свадьбу Жаклин Кеннеди с Аристотелисом Онассисом назвали «свадьбой века». На Скорпиос были приглашены  48 человек, в том числе 8 журналистов, которым позволили снимать. Онассис ничего не боялся, и уж тем более его не смущал тот факт, что невеста и в туфлях без каблуков была гораздо выше его.

В течение нескольких лет остров был магнитом для многих известных представителей общества из сферы бизнеса, политики и искусства. Но лоск и блеск звезд, приезжающих в гости к молодоженам не могли затмить непостижимые загадочные смерти рода Онассис.

На Скорпиосе похоронен любимый сын Аристотеля  Александр, погибший при невыясненных обстоятельствах в 25-летнем возрасте в 1973 году, разбившись на частном самолете. Александрос был великолепным и опытным пилотом, самолет находился в отличном состоянии. В 1988 году из жизни при невыясненных обстоятельствах ушла из жизни 38-летняя Кристина Онассис, дочь Аристотеля: ее нашли в ванной комнате гостиничного номера в Буэнос-Айресе, напичканной наркотиками.

Сам Аристотель Онассис умер 69 лет от роду в 1975 году, почти покинутый своей супругой Жаклин Кеннеди, снедаемый одиночеством, на которое он сам себя обрек.

Жаклин была со смертью «на ты»: она похоронила двух своих детей, стала свидетельницей убийства своего мужа и прекрасно понимала, что душевное кровотечение не кончается никогда. После смерти Онассиса Жаклин унаследовала 26 миллионов долларов и могла вспоминать о своей жизни на Скорпиосе почти с ностальгией. Правда, за миллионы ей пришлось заплатить… именем: она до конца своих дней носила имя Онассиса, как и было записано в завещании хитрого грека.

История Скорпиоса неразрывно связана еще с одним лицом, на которое проклятие рода Онассисов бросило свою смертельную тень: это оперная дива Мария Каллас, преданная Онассисом и умершая от горя  в 1977 году.

Согласно завещанию Онассиса, Скорпиос должен принадлежать их семье до тех пор, пока она сможет его содержать. На оплату жизнедеятельности острова тратится около 1,5 млн. евро ежегодно.  Если у Онассисов закончатся деньги на содержание острова, покойный Аристотель завещал не продавать Скорпиос, а пожертвовать его или авиакомпании Olympic Airways, или Греческому государству. 

Единственная наследница империи Аристотелиса Онассиса, 28-летняя Афина решила продать легендарный семейный остров – Скорпиос, пытаясь, таким образом, сбросить с себя семейное проклятие Онассисов.  В 2013 году Афина Онассис продала остров российскому миллиардеру Дмитрию Рыболовлеву за 126 млн. долларов.

Приближаться к острову не рекомендуется, нас предупредили. Видели машины. Интересно, как они туда попадают, паромом?

Проплывали вокруг острова Меганиси

Меганиси расположен напротив частного острова семьи Онассис – Скорпиос на расстоянии 5 км от острова Лефкада в Ионическом море. Площадь Меганиси составляет всего 20 кв. км, но протяжённость его изрезанной береговой линии достигает 50. Этот остров является самым большим среди островов архипелага, расположенного между Лефкадой и материковой Грецией. Поэтому в переводе с греческого Меганиси означает «большой остров».

Зашли в порт. Много яхт, туристов в тевернах на набережной.  На Меганиси расположены три живописные деревни, множество естественных фьордов, настоящий неисследованный рай для путешественников по водам Ионического моря. Это совсем маленький остров с большим сердцем — так говорят о своей родине местные жители.

Нормальный пляж нашли в уютной бухточке острова. Отдыхали, как морские звезды!

ВИДЕО наших морских путешествий

 

Так, в полнейшем релаксе прошел день. Когда стал накрапывать дождик, вернулись. Сдали лодку на полчаса раньше. За использованный бензин не заплатили. Никто не напомнил, а мы в эйфории от впечатлений, просто об этом забыли…

Приключения продолжаются!

Понравилась запись? Поделись с друзьями!

Кнопки соцсетей находятся ниже

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