Дикий кемпинг на пляже Ялос. Остров Лефкада, Греция

Официально дикий кемпинг в Греции запрещен. На общественных пляжах тем более. Но если не разводить костер и не привлекать к себе внимание — можно. Так советуют опытные путешественники. Так решили поступить и мы :)

Скажу сразу: мы никогда не жили в палатке до этого времени все вместе. Так, когда-то пробовали в раннем детстве и еще на рафтинге. Но вот, чтобы так — всей семьей и за границей — ни разу в жизни. Да у нас даже палатки своей не было, взяли в прокат.

Попробовать палаточную жизнь решили просто так, из интереса.

  1. впервые отпуск выпал на летние месяцы. Хотелось поселиться как можно ближе к морю, смотреть на звезды и чувствовать себя Робинзонами;
  2. едем на юг, в Грецию.  Там пляжи, практически круглогодичное солнце, осадки исключены. Отличные условия для старта;
  3. существенная экономия на проживании.

На этапе подготовки маршрута, когда определились, что хотим попробовать палаточную жизнь, приобрели кемпинговое оборудование: удобные кресла, большой пляжный зонт, коврики-самонадувайки, подушки, горелку, баллоны, барбекюшницу. Стол с табуретками у нас уже был.  Для горелки требовалась специальная посуда с тонким дном (ее одолжили у друзей), для барбекюшницы — уголь, разжигатель, щипцы. Также решили взять удочки со всеми вытекающими (грузило, крючки и т.д.), бадминтон, мяч, настольные игры, ласты, маску, пляжные полотенца, покрывало —  все то, что не брали с собой раньше, когда путешествовали весной. Получилась внушительная куча вещей. Просто огромная!

Для того, чтобы это все увезти, купили верхний багажник на 440 л фирмы Terra Drive и все это «богатство», относящееся к жизни в палатке, упаковали туда.

СитроенПолучается, что в Ситроенчик поместилось не только пол-квартиры,

Повторюсь, это новый вид отдыха для нас. Для всех. Ставить палатку, готовить на углях, экономить воду, ловить рыбу — все это будет впервые. Экономическая ситуация в стране сыграла не последнюю роль в вопросе экономии бюджета поездки. Мы перебрали полсотни вариантов недорогих отелей на каждом из трех островов, поняли, что задуманное путешествие осуществиться только в случае экономии на проживании. Так появилась палатка и дикий кемпинг.  Чтобы не печалиться о космическом курсе евро к национальной валюте, не прикидывать, что мы могли себе позволить еще год-два назад за эту сумму, не портить отдых печальными сравнениями, решили рассматривать острова как RELAX. Полную отключку от цивилизации. Как романтику, «ничегонеделание», паузы  в череде городов, дорог и стран нашего 25-дневного путешествия.

В самом деле, чтоб добраться до острова Лефкада,

мы проехали 2300 км.

За четыре дня.

Через три страны.

Четыре дня назад мы только выехали из Энергодара. И уже много чего успели: сделать зарядку возле Румынской Эйфелевой башни, пересечь почти всю Болгарию, побродить по старинному городу Охрид в Македонии, исследовать ущелье Викос и белый каньон в Загории, подружиться с московской семьей, заглохнуть, толкать, нервничать, найти СТО, отремонтировать машину, заехать на остров. Оказывается, много чего успели! Когда живем привычной жизнью в родном городе, четыре дня не проходят так насыщенно. А здесь они заполнились впечатлениями до отказа. Нужен был релакс и срочно:)

Первый пляж, к которому вела автомобильная дорога, оказался не пригодным для дикого кемпинга. Многолюдный и ветреный. Поехали дальше. Карта обнадеживала, что найти уединенный пляж  — не проблема.

Но все последующие наши остановки, когда мы просто выходили из машины осмотреть территорию, так сказать с высоты, не увенчались успехом. Во-первых, приближенность к населенному пункту и, следовательно, туристы. Во-вторых, везде-везде, где мы выходили из машины или даже открывали окна, в салон машины сразу же влетали мухи, оводы и прочая летающая фауна. Закрадывались сомнения: что нас ждет в необитаемой части острова? Какая живность там? У нас с собой куча репеллентов made in Ukraine, но от злых жужжащих насекомых made in Greece нет ничего…

Сверились с картой, поставили в навигаторе точку съезда к морю в районе Chortata. Едем. Солнце тихонько склоняется к горизонту. Хочется есть, но еще больше — определиться с ночевкой. Скрещиваем пальцы, загадываем, чтоб этот пляж нам идеально подошел. Ведь новичкам везет, правда?

Вдруг дорога подозрительно стала карабкаться вверх. Море синело внизу, а мы ползли все выше и выше. Сначала закончился асфальт. Dragano был последней деревенькой, где теплилась жизнь. После нее дорога закончилась вовсе. Остались камни между оливковых деревьев, как направление движения.

Едем. Ситроенчик гребет, задевает ветки, разрывает паутинные растяжки на пути. Мы притихли. Что это за дорога? Что за карта такая???

Когда поняли, что кроме crazy ukrainian здесь никто не ездит, а море так и остается далеко внизу, решили возвращаться. Дорога не хотела спускаться вниз, а мы не могли уже взбираться по булыжникам вверх. Авантюра успехом не увенчалась…

Следующим и единственным местом, где можно было съехать к морю (согласно карте) был пляж Ялос — Gyalos Beach. Предварительно, еще из дому, мы сверялись по гугл-картам, что съехать к нему можно на машине. Не так, как Эгремни или Порто-Кацики. Но Ялос — пляж общественный. к нему ведет нормальная асфальтированная дорога. К той обжитой части, где шезлонги и зонтики. А есть другая дорога, подальше. И она ведет к безлюдной части. Вот ее решили заселить:)

В 18.30 стали спускать к месту ночевки. Дорога пугала аварийным состоянием. Чтоб проехать по ней, под колеса машины подкладывали камни. Останавливались, выходили, собирали булыжники, сооружали съезд и осторожно двигались вниз.

Груженая машина с трудом передвигалась, переваливаясь с бока на бок.

Когда добрались до пляжа, радовались, как дети! Дима перенервничал, и не отходя от места парковки, тяпнул виски :)

Разложили лагерь, стали готовить ужин. Из-за отсутствия опыта все получалось медленно, поели в сумерках.

Пляж идеальный, место уединенное. Абсолютно безветренный с прозрачной бирюзовой водой. Наверху торчала какая-то заброшенная хижина без признаков жизни. И больше никого. Поют цикады, мы грилим сосиски, пьем вино, купаемся в Ионическом море и чувствуем себя абсолютно счастливыми! Всё сбылось, как хотели!

Закат наступил быстро. Солнце свалилось в море за считанные минуты. Достали фонарики, еще немного поговорили, поделились впечатлениями за день, умастились спать.

Ночью никто не спал… Каждый шорох казался враждебным, прибой громыхал волнами, казалось, что кто-то бродит вокруг палатки… Пару раз выходили, светили лучами, пытались отпугнуть непрошеных зверей. Каких на самом деле не было:)  Умом понимали, что мы здесь одни. С одной стороны пляж закрыт горой, с другой отрезан морем, и ведет к нему всего одна стрёмная дорога. Ночью там не проехать никак, обнаружить туристов можно только с моря. Но все равно было страшно. В черном небе сияла луна, а все звуки природы приобретали зловещее звучание. Море рычало драконом и казалось, что оно подкрадывается все ближе и ближе. Не спали, слушали. Было тепло, мягко и неспокойно. Совсем одни. Только мы и стихия.

Шутка ли, первый раз в палатке, первый раз ночуем на пляже и первый раз нарушаем закон в чужой стране.

Когда забрезжил рассвет, мозг отдал команду «спать» и  отключился.

В 9.30 солнышко выглянуло из-за горы, осветило лучами пляж, прогрело палатку, и мы проснулись.

Начался новый день.

После завтрака я взяла фотик и отправилась в конец пляжа делать снимки для стоков.

Расслабилась, фотографирую брызги, волны и безлюдный пляж.

Вдруг из-за горы вылетают два истребителя и с мощным рёвом проносятся над пляжем. Сказать, что я испугалась — ничего не сказать. Пригнувшись в три погибели, бегу к палатке. Сердце впрыгнуло в пятки, кровь стучит в висках. В голове наскакивают друг на друга мысли: что делать? копать окоп? прятаться? спасаться бегством? и главное — как они нас вычислили?

В пляжных креслах мирно релаксирует семья и потешается над моим  испугом.

О том, что это мог быть облет территориальных границ, даже не подумала:)

За два дня, проведенных на Ялосе, видели всего одну пару туристов. Все остальное время весь этот берег был наш. Как в песне Мумий Тролля:)

Мы купались, смеялись, строили песочные замки, слушали греческие песни по радио, пили вино с овечьей фетой, отдыхали.

Карина построила песочные часы и на берегу выложила надпись I love Lefkada

Так прошел еще один замечательный день в Греции.

Ночью Дима не спал.

Но уже по другой причине.

Снимал звездное небо. Это какая-то волшебная трудоемкая работа, когда из 50 полученных фото (с 3 до 5 утра) в результате монтажа получается вот такой кадр.

Полная видеоверсия нашего путешествия на Ялос — Gyalos Beach

Прогнать нас с этого пляжа смогла лишь погода. Вернее, разыгравшиеся волны и ветер. Зайти  в море стало проблематично. Высокие буруны сбивали с ног и тянули в морскую пучину. Сломался расслабленный кайф. Решили собирать лагерь и выкарабкиваться наверх.

Дорога не для слабонервных. Да и дальнейший узкий серпантин с поворотами в 180 градусов держит в напряжении.

Держим путь на знаменитый Egremni и Porto Katsiki

Продолжение СЛЕДУЕТ. Начало ЗДЕСЬ

P.S. в июне 2016 наши друзья из Энергодара решили также остановиться в палатке на пляже Ялос. Но спуститься к нему не смогли. Даже на мотоцикле. Дорога оказалась полностью разрушенной ноябрьским землетрясением 2015 года…

Фото из интернета

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