Путешествие по Загории. Деревня Мегало Папинго

На всем просторе русскоязычного интернета я не нашла ни одной фотки  удивительной красоты каньона из белого слоеного камня с прозрачной ледяной водой, поэтому не знаю его названия. Находится он между двумя деревнями — Megalo Papingo и Micro Papingo. Наше путешествие по Zagoria продолжается.

Чем меньше информации о месте, которое собираешься посетить, тем оно становится интереснее. Начало ЗДЕСЬ

Горы образованы из сланцевых пород, местные жители испокон веков используют сланец как строительный материал. Дороги, дома, крыши домов, мосты – всё в загорохорских деревнях возведено из серого камня. Населяют загорохорские деревни потомки славян и влахов (румын), именно поэтому и название района больше русское, чем греческое: Загория —  т.е. за горами. Расположена Загорохория (Загория) на территории Национального заповедника Vikos-Aoos, вдоль одного из самых глубоких и узких ущелий в мире, занесённом в 1997 году в Книгу рекордов Vikos Gorge.

Деревня Мегало Папинго расположена на высоте 900 метров над уровнем моря. Там до сих пор живут и пасут овец влахи. Эти люди говорят на своем особом диалекте латинской природы и не имеют письменной формы языка. Характерная особенность архитектуры Загории в том, что все постройки выложены из сланца с окрестных гор, называемого геологами флишем. Из-за этого деревушки выглядят серыми и слегка угрюмыми, но в то же время обладают своим неповторимым шармом.

Найти нужный отель с наскоку не получилось. Деревня выглядела уснувшей. По улочкам не везде проедешь! Мы умудрились забиться в такую щель, что из машины было невозможно выйти, двери просто напросто не открывались на достаточную ширину, поэтому решили передвигаться пешком. Оставили машину на общественной стоянке и пошли искать отель Agriogido — Rupicapra Apartments

Загория, ГрецияКомплекс Rupicapra состоит из 3 традиционных каменных вилл, которые разместились посреди гор, на загородной территории площадью 2 700 м². Виллы построены из натуральных материалов: серого сланца и дерева.

Местоположение комплекса идеально подходит для знакомства с Загори, в том числе с национальным парком Викос-Аоос (и его ущельем Викос), рекой Воидоматис и озером Дракона (Драколимни). Традиционный каменный поселок Папинго расположен на лоне живописной и захватывающей дух природы.

Мегало-Папинго только на словах «мегало», а на самом деле — крошечная деревня в три улицы со сланцевыми домами, заборами и мостовыми. Крыши домов тоже из сланца, бруски которого уложены на манер черепицы.

Вот здесь, во дворике отеля нас поджидал сюрприз.

Носим вещи из машины, обживаем свой номер в отеле. Во дворике появляется семья с детьми (примерно, нашего возраста) и говорит нам по-русски: «Привет».  Вот уж не ожидали в высокогорном захолустье услышать русскую речь:)

Знакомимся, готовим совместный ужин, располагаемся за общим столом с картами, фотками и под местное вино разговариваем до позднего вечера. Так душевно получилось.

Эти ребята, кстати, рассказали нам забавную историю. Хозяин отеля, когда узнал, что у него в одно время забронировали номера в отеле русские и украинцы, сбежал. Побоялся погрома и братоубийственной резни. Вместо себя оставил молоденькую племянницу и приказал ей к нам близко не подходить. Вот что с людьми делает телевизор:)  Девочка убедилась, что мы общаемся мирно и даже смеемся вместе, вышла из укрытия, мы смогли рассчитаться за проживание:)

Отель Agriogido — Rupicapra Apartments чудесный, рекомендую! На сайте букинга оставила отзыв.

Загори, ГрецияПрекрасные горные пейзажи, свежий воздух и комфортная температура. Как будто сама природа не позволяет человеку расстаться с чувством прекрасного.

Утро выявило вчерашние проблемы. Машина пыхтела и никак не хотела заводиться. Посиделки с москвичами увенчались общим решением — ехать смотреть удивительной красоты белый каньон, скрытый от глаз человеческих.В девять утра все были готовы, но наш Ситроен никуда ехать не собирался. Идти далеко, в одну машину не влезем. Опять толкали:)

Загори, ГрецияДорога напоминала сжатый серпантин: руль крутился влево, тут же вправо, снова влево, и так до бесконечности. Минут десять езды и мы на месте. Оставляем машины в тени раскидистых деревьев, дальше идем пешком.

Загори, ГрецияРека Войдоматис, создательница каньона, каплей за каплей выбивала его на протяжении тысяч лет. По самому краю изгибается тропинка. Виды улётные: молочно-белые слоистые стены каньона окутывала синяя утренняя дымка, бурная растительность тянулась изо всех сил к солнцу, стараясь выбраться из тени ущелья. Кроме нас тут никого не было, лишь стрекотали насекомые, копошились в траве ящерки и черными пятнами на дне шевелились головастики.

Загори, Греция

Загори, ГрецияЭто надо видеть своими глазами…

Загори, ГрецияЗагори, ГрецияЗагори, ГрецияЭто какой-то удивительный мир. Скрытый от человеческих глаз, нетронутый уголок первозданной природы. Не знаю сколько времени мы там провели, казалось, что оно вообще остановилось. Прохлада, журчание воды, порхание стрекоз и щебет птиц над головой, бесконечные лабиринты каньона, скользкие камни, тишина и умиротворение — невообразимая красота!

ВИДЕО

Вышли к мостику. Солнце еще не победило тень от скал и река выглядит темной. На самом деле, вода прозрачная, отливает бирюзой. Самое лучшее время для фото — когда солнце в зените.
Загори, ГрецияКак и все постройки Загории, мост сложен из сланца и используется местными жителями для перегона через каньон домашнего скота.

Загори, ГрецияВ пределах Загории пара десятков таких мостов, в некоторых местах с одним перекрытием (как у этого), а кое-где и с тремя. Ничего подобного видеть ранее не приходилось. Мосты уникальны по своей природе и очень фотогеничны.

Загори, ГрецияПолный альбом о путешествии в Загорию ЗДЕСЬ

Вернулись в отель, пообедали, упаковали вещи, попрощались с замечательной семьей Усовых.   Надо было что-то срочно решать с ремонтом машины. Дальнейший маршрут уводил на острова, ближайший сервисный центр «Ситроен» нашелся вблизи  Янины (Ioannina). Путешествие было под угрозой срыва…

Продолжение СЛЕДУЕТ. Начало  ЗДЕСЬ

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301 thoughts on “Путешествие по Загории. Деревня Мегало Папинго

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  66. If you’re still upon the fence: get your favored earphones, intellect down toward a Least complicated Obtain and question to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and look at which a person seems improved to on your own, and which interface will make yourself smile much more. Then you will understand which is specifically for on your own.

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  68. Zune and iPod: Highest people today assess the Zune in the direction of the Touch, however as soon as looking at how skinny and astonishingly tiny and gentle it is, I choose it in direction of be a very unique hybrid that combines properties of each the Contact and the Nano. It can be amazingly colorful and magnificent OLED display screen is marginally scaled-down than the touch screen, nevertheless the player alone feels Really a bit lesser and lighter. It weighs around 2/3 as much, and is drastically more compact within just width and peak, although staying simply just a hair thicker.

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  70. If you might be even now upon the fence: seize your beloved earphones, head down towards a Best Acquire and inquire to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and check out which one appears improved in direction of oneself, and which interface helps make by yourself smile added. Then you can expect to notice which is directly for you.

  71. Zune and iPod: Greatest humans evaluate the Zune towards the Contact, still just after observing how thin and astonishingly very little and light it is, I take it in the direction of be a instead one of a kind hybrid that brings together attributes of possibly the Contact and the Nano. It’s Quite colourful and lovely OLED display screen is somewhat lesser than the contact screen, however the participant itself feels Really a bit more compact and lighter. It weighs over 2/3 as a lot, and is drastically scaled-down inside width and peak, When currently being only a hair thicker.

  72. This is starting to be a bit additional subjective, yet I significantly choose the Zune Market. The interface is colourful, is made up of far more flair, and some amazing features like ‘Mixview’ that allow for by yourself suddenly look at comparable albums, songs, or other customers very similar toward what you’re listening toward. Clicking upon a single of all those will middle upon that item, and one more preset of «neighbors» will arrive into feeling, making it possible for yourself towards navigate in the vicinity of investigating by means of related artists, music, or end users. Conversing of customers, the Zune «Social» is additionally Terrific fun, allowing for oneself discover many others with shared tastes and getting pals with them. On your own then can pay attention towards a playlist generated based mostly upon an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening towards, which is also exciting. These concerned with privacy will be relieved in the direction of notice your self can prevent the public versus looking at your unique listening behavior if yourself consequently make your mind up.

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  74. This is getting a bit excess subjective, but I a great deal favor the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colourful, incorporates further more aptitude, and some interesting capabilities which include ‘Mixview’ that enable by yourself out of the blue look at equivalent albums, songs, or other consumers very similar towards what you are listening in direction of. Clicking on a single of all those will middle on that products, and another set of «neighbors» will occur into watch, enabling oneself towards navigate around exploring by means of related artists, music, or customers. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is moreover Terrific pleasurable, allowing for yourself find many others with shared preferences and getting to be good friends with them. Oneself then can hear towards a playlist produced based mostly upon an amalgamation of what all your mates are listening to, which is furthermore fascinating. These worried with privacy will be relieved to notice by yourself can steer clear of the public in opposition to seeing your personal listening habits if your self thus decide on.

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  76. If you might be however on the fence: grab your preferred earphones, thoughts down to a Least difficult Obtain and ask towards plug them into a Zune then an iPod and view which 1 seems far better towards oneself, and which interface results in on your own smile much more. Then you can understand which is immediately for your self.

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  85. You have brought up a very great details , thanks for the post.

  86. Palms down, Apple’s app retail store wins via a mile. It can be a huge conclusion of all varieties of applications vs a pretty sad option of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of systems, in particular inside the realm of games, however I’m not absolutely sure I might need to have in direction of guess upon the future if this aspect is critical toward on your own. The iPod is a substantially superior determination in just that circumstance.

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  98. The fresh Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as very good as the iPod’s. It will work very well, yet is not as instantaneous as Safari, and incorporates a clunkier interface. If you at times application upon getting the website browser that’s not an issue, still if you happen to be designing in direction of go through the web alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s greater screen and much better browser may possibly be major.

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  100. Between me and my spouse we have owned a lot more MP3 players more than the many years than I can count, together with Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and so forth. But, the very last pair years I have fixed down towards just one line of avid gamers. Why? Given that I was joyful in direction of locate how well-designed and entertaining toward employ the service of the underappreciated (and extensively mocked) Zunes are.

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  105. Fingers down, Apple’s app retail outlet wins as a result of a mile. It really is a significant quantity of all types of apps vs a alternatively unhappy option of a handful for Zune. Microsoft contains applications, especially in just the realm of online games, but I’m not certain I might require in direction of wager upon the upcoming if this part is critical toward your self. The iPod is a much better conclusion inside that scenario.

  106. I will devices this analyze in direction of 2 products of folks: existing Zune property owners who are thinking about an update, and americans striving to make a decision between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other avid gamers well worth looking at out there, such as the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this delivers yourself enough info in the direction of make an conscious option of the Zune vs gamers other than the iPod line as nicely.)

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  151. Palms down, Apple’s app store wins by means of a mile. It truly is a large amount of all sorts of purposes vs a quite unsatisfied quantity of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has Options, specially in the realm of game titles, nevertheless I’m not yes I might will need in direction of bet upon the potential if this part is considerable in the direction of on your own. The iPod is a significantly much better option within that circumstance.

  152. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  155. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  168. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  188. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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  190. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  191. I am going to tools this examine in the direction of 2 designs of people: present Zune householders who are thinking about an update, and americans seeking in the direction of make your mind up concerning a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players great importance taking into consideration out there, together with the Sony Walkman X, nonetheless I assume this presents oneself enough information and facts in the direction of deliver an conscious option of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as effectively.)

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  193. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  196. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  197. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  198. I will right away snatch your rss feed as I can’t find your e-mail subscription hyperlink or newsletter service. Do you’ve any? Please let me understand so that I could subscribe. Thanks.

  199. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  200. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  201. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  203. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  205. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

  206. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  208. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  210. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  211. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  212. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  214. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  228. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  229. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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