Македония — Греция. Ущелье Викос

Мощеные улочки с крутыми подъемами, старинные церкви, Кирилл и Мефодий, синева озера, немного потрепанные временем здания  — все сливается в калейдоскоп впечатлений македонского города Охрид.

Начало ЗДЕСЬ

Проезжая по Охриду замечаем, что нашу машину пристально рассматривают местные жители. Все дело в тонированных стеклах, в Македонии темных стекол нет совсем.  Фотать по дороге нечего. Страна выглядит неряшливо. Даже в туристических местах.  Но язык смешной:)

На трассе много мусора и битого стекла, цветущие кусты украшают полуразрушенные здания. Желания вернуться в Охрид нет, хочется солнца, моря, полного релакса.

Едем в Грецию через Битолу. Границу пересекаем в городе Nikis. Подъезжаем, опускаем стекла, готовим паспорта. Слышен смех людей и щебет птиц. Ожидаем, когда к нам подойдут. Но греки кидаются зелеными абрикосами и, кажется, нас совсем не замечают:)

Таможенный контроль интересуется везем ли мы спиртное, честно признаемся, что нам нравится их вино с фетой, поэтому пить спиртное собираемся в Греции. Ответ понравился, пропустили без досмотра. Ура! Мы в Греции!

фото с телефона. На границе делать снимки запрещено. Но я по-шпионски:)

Достаем словарик, учим главные слова по-гречески:

  • Дэн милао́ элиника́  — я не говорю по гречески
  • Эфхаристо́  — спасибо
  • Паракало́ — пожалуйста
  • Я́сас — здравствуйте
  • Кали́ о́рэкси — приятного аппетита
  • Дэн каталовено — я не понимаю
  • Еси миризис сан вромики фета — ты пахнешь как протухшая фета

В словарике встречается эта последняя фраза с пометкой «ругаемся по-гречески» и так понравилась Карине, что она ее заучила в первую очередь:)

Мы планировали забраться подальше от туристов, и я очень сомневалась, что в деревенской Загории нашелся бы хоть один человек, знающий любой язык кроме греческого. Мы заучили парочку простейших фраз. Как ни странно, этого хватило, а где не хватило — на помощь приходил язык жестов.

Едем к ущелью Викос. Там нас ждет забронированный отель в деревушке Megalo Papingo. Загория — единственное место в Греции, где водятся бурые медведи, о чем свидетельствуют знаки на дороге.

греция Греция грецияЗагорохорьяудивительное место в Греции.  Загори — это 46 деревень, расположенных в долинах и на склонах Северного Пинда вокруг ущелий Аоос и Викос. Огромные долины, поросшие хвойными лесами, глубокие каньоны с отвесными скальными стенами, зазубрины гор, где даже в августе видно снег, плоские безлесые плато на головокружительной высоте, ледяные реки, бьющие прямо из-под земли, вырезанные в скалах мощеные камнем тропы — кальдерими и изящные каменные мосты.

Сделали привал после Florina не доезжая до лыжного курорта  Vigla. Нашли лавочку с удобным съездом, поели, пофоткались.  Дух захватывает от высоты. Красиво до невозможности. Около часа там провели, заставили себя ехать дальше.

Стали заводиться, а машина не едет. Совсем. Дергается, мигает непонятными буквами на панеле управления, пугает нас. Дергались так долго, все надеялись, что это случайный перегрев. Что вот сейчас услышим привычный звук мотора и поедем дальше… Но чуда не случилось. Изучения инструкции по эксплуатации автомобиля не помогло. Предполагаем какой-то сбой в электронике. А что это еще может быть? Накануне выезда, буквально неделю назад отдавали Ситроен на ТО к официалам, об этом я упоминала.  Что это может быть???

Впереди три недели путешествия, три острова, Пелопонесс, десяток забронированных отелей, и мы только въехали в Грецию… Такой интересный маршрут, долгожданный отпуск и тут вдруг это…

Разгрузили багажник как смогли, стали выталкивать машину на дорогу. Но как бы мы ни старались и не рвали жилы, получалось только раскачать. Мы не продвинулись ни на сантиметр. Стоим носом вниз. Уклон этого «привального» пятачка относительно дороги был в несколько градусов, но мы втроем никак не могли его одолеть. На дороге, как назло, было пусто…

Понервничали, конечно. Потом додумались подкладывать под колеса валуны, чтоб при максимальной раскачке отвоевать хоть пять сантиметров. Мы двигали машину, Карина подкладывала камни, чтоб зафиксировать каждое новое положение. Два, пять, десять, пятнадцать… а надо вытолкнуть метра на два…

Я вспомнила тогда все молитвы. Страшно было. А вдруг не заведемся с наката?

Нам удалось вытолкнуть машину на дорогу, Дима  вывернул руль и съехать по серпантину вниз на аварийке. В движении она завелась. Урааааааа!

викос, грецияБольше с остановками не рискуем. И если видели захватывающий пейзаж, а это случалось часто в горах Пинд, то машину не глушили, фоткали быстро и синхронно.

Викос, Греция

Пинд ― крупнейший горный массив в Греции, он протянулся от албанской границы до центральной Греции и охватывает почти весь Эпир.

Бесконечная зелень, удивительные ландшафты, глубокие ущелья, прозрачная вода, старинные каменные мосты и деревушки, скромно расположившиеся на зелёных холмах — все это склоны северного Пинда.

В ущелье Викос бесконечное количество треков разных категорий сложности. Но мы не альпинисты пока, прогулку по каньону (как моя любимая семья Яночкиных) не совершили. Ограничились серпантинами, видовыми точками, пересохшими реками и арочными мостами.

Загори Загори, Греция ЗагориВИДЕО

Ущелье Викос находится в северо-западной Греции в районе со славянским названием Загори (округ Эпир). Оно занесено в Книгу Рекордов Гиннеса в качестве глубочайшего каньона на Земле — его стены местами достигают высоты 900 метров, в то время как расстояние между их вершинами не превышает 1100 метров. Длина каньона = 12 км. Ущелье является частью национального парка Викос-Аоос, и находится в горном массиве Пинд.

Где-то в 17.00 за 75 км от отеля в совершенно безлюдном месте, среди гор и пустынных дорог, на высоте 1500 м нас остановила Policia для проверки документов (сняла на видео)

Загори, Греция

Безумные серпантины, неимоверная красота, но ни одной оборудованной смотровой. Приходилось что-то придумывать и не выключая мотор фиксировать пейзажи.

Загори, Греция

Уставшие от крутых зигзагов дорог, но впечатленные изумительными видами, мы приехали в отель ближе к вечеру.

Там нас ждал сюрприз…

Продолжение СЛЕДУЕТ.  Начало ЗДЕСЬ

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