Македония. Город Охрид

После транзитного отеля в Болгарии, который оставил противоречивые чувства, едем в Македонию. К знаменитому озеру и одноименному городу, в котором зародилась первая славянская азбука — глаголица.

ОхридГраницу проходим за полчаса. Из машины не выходим, отдаем паспорта. Болгары спрашивают: «Куда пошли?» Говорим: «Охрид, Македония»  Предупреждают, чтоб мы не ехали на север страны. Там в этот период был вооруженный конфликт с Албанцами. В Македонии на границе долго рассматривают Каринкину вклейку в мой паспорт. Седой таможенник говорит: «Я был в Украине, в городе Сумы». И для чего-то стал рассказывать считалочку: «Раз, два, три, четыре, пять, вышел зайчик погулять»  Может, хотел блеснуть знанием могучего русского? На прощание уверил: «Бандитов нет, мафии нет, в Охриде спокойно».

Македония. Это красивая страна с реками, горами и озерами, до 1991г входила в состав Югославии. Валюта македонский динар, население чуть больше 2 млн. На севере граничит с Косово и Сербией, на западе — с Албанией, на юге — с Грецией, на востоке — с Болгарией.

Винеток нет, автобаны платные only cash. Денег не наменяли, будем платить в евро. Водители не утруждаются ПДД, повороты не показывают. Дорожные знаки старые и выцветшие, местами отсутствуют вовсе.  Цены почти украинские. И это радует:)

Погода изменилась  в теплую сторону и это тоже радует.

От Скопье идем по автобану (1,5 евро за проезд). Отмечаем, что находимся за 1700 км от дома. И это только третий день пути.

К Охриду ведут горные серпантины.  Тянучка в горах немного сбивает наши планы по временному прибытию. Дороги местами кривые, но не такие дырявые как в Украине.

В Охрид приехали в 17.30

Македония Македония
Македония Охрид Македония Охрид

Охрид
Археологические находки утверждают, что Охрид является одним из древнейших человеческих поселений в Европе. О городе впервые упоминается в 353 г. до н.э., он был построен на месте греческой колонии и известен как Lihnidos — «Город Света». Но много позже, в 879 году был переименован в Охрид.

Полчаса кружили по городу в поисках нашего отеля. Не могли поверить, что будем жить за крепостной стеной, и Chardak Apartments окажется на вершине горы:)

охридОтель достойный, рекомендую. Бронировали через booking.com



Booking.com

 

По утрам нас будили звонкие птичьи трели, ароматно пахло спелыми ягодами. И дворик такой уютный, как большая нарядная клумба.

В Македонии другой часовой пояс (от украинского отмотать час назад). Решили гулять, пробовать национальную кухню.

В старом городе все выглядит сонным. За крепостными стенами, где находится наш отель красиво. Каждый дворик как будто соревнуется на чистоту и аккуратность.

Достопримечательностью города является античный амфитеатр. Он был обнаружен сравнительно недавно и совершенно случайно. Сооружение относится к эллинской, а не римской архитектуре. Согласно подсчетам исследователей, амфитеатр Охрида был основан за несколько столетий до начала нашей эры. Месторасположение у конструкции идеальное: она находится между двумя холмами, защищающими ее от ветров, но не преграждающими вид на море.

Амфитеатр ОхридВ городе много церквей и все с историей.  Церковь Пресвятой Богородицы была построена в 14 веке нашей эры во время правления Османской империи. Церковь Св. Софии в Охриде появилась еще в 11 веке нашей эры. Изначально это был Кафедральный собор болгарских архиепископов. Здесь красуется восстановленная церковь Святого Пантелеймона — важнейший центр славянской культуры и письменности.

ОхридНо самой главной достопримечательностью, конечно, является само озеро.  Оно появилось в результате геотектонического прогиба, произошедшего 5 млн. лет назад. Максимальная глубина озера составляет 288 метров. Оно сливается с озером Пресла, которое расположено чуть выше, отсюда в озеро Охрид перетекает часть воды, однако большей частью его питают подземные источники, благодаря чему вода здесь такая чистая и удивительно целебная. Многие обитатели этого озера включены в Красную книгу планеты.

В начале 860-х годов н. э. два брата Кирилл и Мефодий отправились в болгарскую миссию с целью распространения христианства. Кирилл проделал колоссальный труд по выделению и преобразованию звуков и начертанию букв для новой письменности. На основании разработок были составлены целых две азбуки – кириллица (названная в честь Кирилла) и глаголица. В Охриде их трудам посвящен монумент.

Современная часть города что-то не очень впечатлила…

Охрид — это смесь Дубровника и Несебра, только неопрятный какой-то… Курят везде, несмотря на закон о запрете курения в общественных местах. Кажется, что мода здесь замерла на отметке 1970-й.  На набережной все до неприличия дорого.

В центре приметили таверну, делаем заказ. Очень хотелось попробовать их национальное блюдо «тавче гравче» , Дима с Кариной заказали гуляш с пюре. И по салатику. Официант спрашивает: Vine?   Ок, неси вино.

С вином случился казус. Официант переспрашивает:  two glasses or bottle?  Мы переглянулись, решили брать «ботл» чего уж там:) Спрашиваем цену, отвечает: 120 динар. Отлично, как в магазине!

Приносят…. Бутылка по-македонски — это минзурка в 200г, у нас это пробник называется:)  На фото — в моем стакане пол этой, так называемой, бутылки:)

Охрид охридУжин обошелся в 13,5 евро. Наелись. К вечеру похолодало с 26 до 16 градусов. Решили возвращаться в отель через супермаркет. Алкоголь продается за стеклом, и с виду эта конструкция напоминает шкаф, где каждый ящик под своим замком. После 21.00 спиртное не продают. Здесь за 120 динар можно купить 1 литр:)  Если любите полусладкое, ищите на этикетке слово «vitac»

Здесь полный видео отчет о поездке в Охрид

Утром завтракаем вкусняшками из PECARA, хозяйка говорит на прощание «Широка дорога», тепло прощаемся.

ОхридЗаехали на рынок, купили овощей и фруктов. Цены украинские. Стоимость бензина = 71 динар (28,5 грн)

Покидаем Охрид. На кольце стоит рояль. Типа «рояль в кустах». Мгновенно оживляемся, хватаем аппаратуру, кружим еще раза три вокруг, уезжаем.

Рояль:)

охрид

Продолжение следует.   Начало здесь

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