Река Тара и мост Джурджевича

Свое название река Тара получила от племени древних  иллирийцев. Это самая длинная горная река в Черногории. Каньон реки Тара является вторым по величине в мире и самым большим в Европе, уступая только Гранд-Каньону реки Колорадо в США.

Разве мы могли пропустить такую достопримечательность в Черногории? Спланировали маршрут таким образом, чтоб дорога пролегала через мост Джурджевича.

8 мая 2014. Черногория. Котор

С этого дня вся дорога носит обратный характер. Печально :-(

В 12.00 покинули отель. В бухте увидели красивый белый парусник. Порадовались, что Котор не обманул наши ожидания в плане круизных лайнеров и погоды.

Дорога уводила круто в горы. Пустынная, узкая, с ползающими гадюками. Иногда удавалось сфотографировать открывающиеся пейзажи. Въехали в неосвещенный тоннель, только фары. По стенам течет вода и капает на машину. Жутковато. Вместо смотровых «кармашков» щебневая насыпка, но мы останавливались и фотографировали.

Дорожное покрытие удивляло разнообразием. После зарослей кустарника и серпантина с гадюками вдруг двухполосная трасса с новой разметкой. Потом опять узкий участок. А за ним участок в ремонте, на котором две машины не разъедутся. По обочинам стоят фуры и ждут, когда дорогу отремонтируют. Другим путем они не проедут.

На вершине горы сплошные камни с небольшой растительностью. Одиночные домики и камни, камни. О прошлых боях напоминают обелиски. Иногда встречаются знаки камнепада. О поворотах становится известно во время движения, никаких предупреждений нет. Узкая лента дороги виляет вокруг скал. Из-за очередного виража наткнулись на стадо коров, едва успели притормозить. Пастух кивнул в знак приветствия, отогнал коров, и мы повиляли дальше.

Заехали в старый грязный город Никшич с облупившимися домами и воздухом, пропитанным химикатами. Неприятный едкий запах, как в Армянске.

Взобрались еще выше. Инопланетные пейзажи вокруг.

Видели указатель на лыжный курорт, обелиски, «черных» копателей. Уши закладывает, 1520м над уровнем моря, температура +9, на верхушках гор лежит снег.

Странные одинокие заборы из камня, одинокий пастух под зонтом и одинокая дорога. Путь в 200 км преодолели за 4 часа.

Мост Джурджевича

В 16.00 подъехали к одному из самых высоких автомобильных мостов в Европе — мост Джурджевича. У моста есть своя печальная история и обелиск храброму инженеру-строителю (с похожей фамилией на нашего бежавшего президента).

Свое название мост Джурджевича получил от имени владельца фермы, которая расположена рядом. Общая длина пятиарочного моста, соединяющего собой два берега каньона реки Тара – 365 м, протяженность самого большого пролета – 116 м. Расстояние от водной плоскости реки до проезжей части моста – 172 м. На момент, когда закончилось строительство (1940 г.) и мост был введен в эксплуатацию, это был самый большой автомобильный бетонный арочный мост Европы.

Мост имени Джурджевича на протяжении долгого времени являлся единственной дорогой, соединяющей южные и северные земли. Удивительный по своей архитектуре мост перекинут через каньон на высоте 150 метров.  От его опор начинается один из самых популярных рафтинг-маршрутов по Таре. Также здесь развит каньонинг и банджи-джампинг.

Сувенирные лавки, ленивые продавцы и красивая природа. Смотришь на бирюзу воды и зелень каньона и не верится, что там, чуть дальше Жабляка, совсем другой пейзаж – лунный и пустой.

Река Тара

Воду из реки Тары можно пить без дополнительного очищения, это самое чистое и большое вместилище пресной воды в Европе. В Тару впадают несколько рек, также имеющие свои каньоны – Сушица Драга, Лютица, Васковачка. Источник Лютица является самым мощным в Европе (выбрасывает 1000 литров воды в секунду) и самой короткой рекой в мире – всего 170 метров. Оба этих факта зафиксированы в книге Рекордов Гиннеса.

В прошлом по руслу реки Тара проводился промышленный сплав леса, но в 1973 году заготовка леса в этих местах прекратилась и с тех пор проводится сплав по реке на деревянных плотах. С 1989 года помимо этого здесь стал применяться рафтинг, то есть сплав по бурной горной реке на рафте – специальном резиновом плоту. Туристы, предварительно одетые в спасательные жилеты, размещаются на рафтах, а управляют резиновыми плотами профессиональные рулевые. В соответствии с мировой классификацией сложность маршрута сплава по реке Тара относится к 3-4 категории.

На протяжении двух веков река Тара не меняет своего русла. Это настоящая горная река с кристально чистой всегда прохладной водой. Русло реки соединяет Черногорию и Сербию. В Тару впадает Пива и вместе они несут свои воды в реки, движущиеся к Черному морю. До 1912 года по реке проходила граница между Черногорией и Османской империей. Сегодня на берегах реки можно встретить многочисленные остатки сторожевых пунктов турок.

В каньоне реки Тара сохранился уникальный девственный лес из черной сосны Црна Пода. Возраст некоторых деревьев превышает 400 лет, высота идеально ровных корабельных сосен достигает 50 метров. В долине реки водятся бурые медведи и волки, обитают многочисленные виды птиц. Удивительно, но это фантастическое произведение природы до конца не изучено.

Полтора часа на осмотр моста, реки и природы. Если вы не собираетесь устраивать пикник на обочине, прыгать с моста на тарзанке, покорять пороги и сплавляться на рафтах, запланируйте Тару проездом. Походить вокруг, впечатлиться  и пофотографировать можно, припарковав машину на обочине.

Видео нашего путешествия

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Также по теме Черногория:   Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория   Будва и Святой Стефан          Котор. Старый город         Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте          Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен          Черногория. Пераст 

 

Также по теме путешествие 2014: 

Путешествие 2014. Начало       Венеция. Проживание              Венеция. Путеводитель по городу           Кемпинг на озере Гарда           Хорватский город Пула                Великий Бриони                Хум — самый маленький город       Деревня Расток в Хорватии                 Плитвицкие озера. Проживание                    Плитвицкие озера — природное чудо света                         Морской орган в Задаре          Проживание в городе Сплит                  Сплит. Дворец Диоклетиана                          Дорога на Дубровник                      Дубровник. Прогулка по городу                      Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория                    Черногория. Пераст                    Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен                          Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте               Котор. Старый город                 Будва и Святой Стефан                   Как проехать: Сербия-Болгария-Румыния                    Резиденция румынский королей                         Замок Дракулы

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