Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен

Признаюсь честно, о черногорском правителе по фамилии Негош до приезда в Котор я ничего не знала. Как не знала и название горы, на которой построен его мавзолей.

Предварительно распечатали информацию из интернета, сложили в папку и по приезду в Черногорию  открыли, до нее дошла очередь. Перечитали, очень захотелось взглянуть.

Нет,  ну это ж надо такое придумать — завещать похоронить себя на горе! Он завещал, а люди потом мучаются, думают как исполнить последнюю просьбу своего кумира.

Кто такой этот Негош?

Петр II Петрович Негош – одна из самых выдающихся исторических личностей в истории Черногории, он был великим поэтом и философом, митрополитом и политиком. Он жил в середине 19 века, но местные жители до сих пор вспоминают о нем с глубоким уважением и любовью. При жизни Петр Петрович несколько раз выражал желание быть захороненным в часовне, основанной им на горе Ловчен, но после его смерти в 1851 году, опасаясь нападения на могилу,  правителя захоронили в Цетинском монастыре. Спустя четыре года его останки были перенесены на Ловчен. И так еще несколько раз туда-сюда, туда-сюда. Часовню то разрушали, то отстраивали. И только через сотню лет, в 1974 году на месте часовни был построен мавзолей, куда переместили прах Негоша.

mavzoleum_monuments-lovcen-10_0Дорога к мавзолею серпантин еще тот!

Мы насчитали 27 поворотов на 27 километрах. Дорога узкая, но машины разъезжаются. Видели даже туристический автобус. И легковушку на эвакуаторе. Справа и слева овраг в полтора метра, подниматься стало страшнее.

В одном из высокогорных ресторанчиков уточнили дорогу. Едем еще минут 40, а мавзолея все нет, указателей тоже. Останавливаем пастуха. Он обещает, что если проедем еще 12 км вверх, мавзолей обнаружится. Да, Негош не Ленин  8-) 

Забрался высоко. Под нами горы и где-то вдали маленькой запятой виднеется залив. Впереди показалась древняя столица Черногории – Цетинье. Вдруг на обочинах стал появляться снег. Сначала его вид вызывал ребячье веселье, пока не вспомнили, что на машине летняя резина. А  обочины все выше и выше.

К мавзолею ведут ступени. Вышли из машины и сразу замерзли. Залезли обратно, утеплились в курточки. Машинное табло показывало +7.

Стали подниматься, появился охранник.

Извините, закрыто с 18.00 до 9.00.

— Прах умершего тревожить не будем, нам бы только на смотровую подняться.

Там, как пишут в отчетах, чудесный вид на всю Черногорию: пики Дурмитора, и Скадарское озеро, и побережье Адриатического моря. Но охранник, как каменная статуя, был непоколебим. Пофоткали снаружи. Ну и снег, конечно.  В мае ;-)

 

Пришлось спускаться. Опять считали повороты. Отметки указывают, что их 25 на самом деле. В награду за тяжкий бесцельный подъем нам были вечерние пейзажи. Солнце красиво уходило за горизонт, озаряя залив золотом.

Если вам повезло больше и в мавзолее вы побывали, поделитесь своей историей. Пишите в комментариях к заметке.

Понравилась запись? Поделись с друзьями!

кнопки соцсетей находятся ниже

Также по теме Черногория:   Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория           Котор. Старый город                  Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте                 Черногория. Пераст               Будва и Святой Стефан

Также по теме путешествие 2014: 

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183 thoughts on “Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен

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