Черногория. Пераст

Боко-Которскую бухту можно объехать, а можно переправиться паромом. Варианты не рассматривали, решили ехать и все-все смотреть. Когда еще доведется побывать в этих местах?

Два островка возле поселка Пераст. Остановились, делаем фото. Пераст находится у подножия холма Святого Ильи и состоит из 17 сохранившихся домов и 16 церквей.

Остров Святого Георгия (слева) настоящий, природный. И он закрыт для посещений. Другой остров, на котором можно высадиться, остров Госпа од Шкрпела – рукотворный. Это остров Божьей Матери на Скале, если перевести дословно.

Здесь не обошлось без легенды. В 1452 году братья-моряки из Пераста нашли на рифе в 115 м от острова Св.Георгия икону Божьей Матери. Она исцелила одного из братьев и стала весьма почитаемой в Перасте.  Риф, где была найдена икона, сначала едва виднелся на поверхности воды. Вскоре горожане решили затапливать рядом корабли, а также приняли закон, по которому каждый проезжающий мимо корабль должен был бросить камень. Традиция сохранилась до сих пор. Это празднество называется Фашинада, когда жители города бросают камни у знаменитого рифа.

Воды бухты – идеальное место для создания устричных ферм. Красные буйки это и есть не что иное, как устричная ферма.

День радовал солнцем, хотелось все успеть.

Если вы в Перасте не проездом, как мы, то вот список рекомендуемых достопримечательностей:

  • Дворец Бронза

В восточной части Пераста, в районе, называемом «Лука»,  находится один из прекраснейших местных дворцов, принадлежавший благородному семейству Бронза, которое перебралось на земли будущей Черногории из соседней Албании в XVI веке. Свое большое состояние господа Бронза сколотили, занимаясь торговлей. Поначалу в распоряжении семьи был только один парусник, потом количество судов увеличилось. Род Бронза принимал деятельное участие в борьбе с корсарами, за что его представители были награждены званием рыцарей.

Свой собственный дворец семейство Бронза смогло себе позволить в середине XVIII века. Это здание часто в народе называют «Доганой», что в переводе означает «Таможня». Дело в том, что в XIX столетии дворец Бронза являлся офисным зданием и приютил под своими сводами чиновников, состоящих на службе у императора Австро-Венгрии и собиравших пошлины. С тех пор почти ничего не изменилось. Разве что поменялся род занятий тех, кто сейчас занимает это здание. Сейчас во дворце Бронза находится офис местного прихода.

  • Дворец Висковичей

Он находится на набережной, где сосредоточены наиболее презентабельные здания города. Площадка для его строительства была выбрана около дороги в районе «Лука».

Чем только ни занимались представители рода Висковичей, но все, что они делали, было для блага любимого города. Они возглавляли Пераст, участвовали в его обороне против турецкой армии, сражались с пиратами, были дипломатами и учеными. Франо Антуан Вискович даже написал «Историю Пераста».

Дворцовый комплекс Висковичей включает в себя несколько составляющих. Его сердцем является большая башня, которая ранее была сторожевой. Ее построили в 1500 году. Башня входила в фортификационную систему Пераста. До нашего времени сохранилась площадка, где в древности устанавливали артиллерийское орудие и, таким образом, могли отражать вражеское нападение. Над главным порталом есть надпись, свидетельствующая о том, что башней распоряжался небольшой отряд защитников города. Все остальные жилые постройки, принадлежавшие семейству Висковичей, формировались вокруг этой древней башни.

  • Дворец Буйовичей

Он выстроен из камня и обломков разрушенных стен города Херцег-Нови, когда он был освобождён от турок в 1687 году. Заложен дворец был в 1694 году, об этом напоминают каменные доски прямо на фасаде дворца. Интересный факт, что строительство дворца осуществлялось в честь национального героя Вицко Буйовича ещё в период Венецианской республики. Проект дворца был разработан венецианским архитектором Джованни Батиста Фонтана. Вход во дворец венчает родовой герб Буйовичей.

На сегодняшний день во дворце располагается музей с обширной коллекцией различных морских карт, моделей кораблей, оружия, костюмов.

  • Дворец Змайевичей

Привлекает внимание внушительный дворец Змайевичей, на территории которого расположена часовня со стрелой-колокольней. Храм был построен рядом с особняком не просто так: несколько его владельцев имели епископский сан. Наверное, поэтому местные жители неофициально называют этот дворцовый комплекс Бискупией, то есть Домом епископа.

Семейство Змайевичей принадлежало к самым уважаемым родам Пераста. Наверное, самым известным представителем этой фамилии является Матия Змайевич, которого ждала блистательная карьера, правда, за рубежом – в России. Он поступил на службу к императору Петру Первому и за многочисленные заслуги получил титул адмирала флота. Матия Змаевич похоронен в Москве, но на родине его не забыли, установив в его честь памятник.

Строительство дворца Змайевичей было завершено в 1664 году, о чем сообщаеттабличка на фасаде. Здание декорировано в барочной манере, которая как раз тогда входила в моду у местной знати. Центральная часть дворца сильно выдается вперед. Таким необычным образом архитектор обыграл уже имевшуюся постройку – старинную башню, которая должна была войти в состав дворцового комплекса. К этой башне присоединили два небольших одинаковых крыла. Подняться ко входу во дворец можно по широкой ломаной лестнице. Около дворца в 1678 году была воздвигнута часовня с выразительной колокольней. Она стала усыпальницей некоторых представителей семьи Змайевич.

  • Дворец Смекья

Рядом с храмом святого Марка на набережной Пераста расположен крупнейший дворец города, принадлежавший влиятельной и богатой семье Смекья. Здание особняка Смекья является своеобразной доминантой набережной и весьма удачно смотрится на снимках, сделанных с моря. Прямо напротив дворца Смекья в заливе Рисан находятся еще две городские достопримечательности – острова Богородицы скал и святого Дордье.  Дворец состоит из двух корпусов. Его строительство продолжалось несколько веков. Капитанская семья Смекья, владевшая торговыми судами, дослужилась до графского титула. Новоиспеченным дворянам полагался по статусу большой представительный дворец, чье строительство началось в 1764 году. Поначалу был воздвигнут нижний дворец, для которого выбрали площадку на берегу моря. С другой стороны его ограничивала старая дорога. Возведение верхнего дворца уже по другую сторону от дороги продолжалось вплоть до 1936 года. Попасть из одного корпуса в другой можно, не покидая стен особняка: они соединены между собой навесным коридором.

  • Крепость Святого Креста

Так как Пераст расположен в стратегически важном месте — прямо напротив пролива Вериге, объединяющем заливы Тиват и Рисан, то его хозяевам, а ими в XVI столетии были венецианцы, пришло в голову использовать этот городок для охраны Которского залива. Пролив в то время был перегорожен канатом, чтобы ни одно судно не прошло в венецианские воды. Но этих предосторожностей было мало, поэтому на возвышенности Кашун над Перастом была заложена мощная крепость, названная в честь Святого Креста.

Место для крепости выбрали не случайно: в IX веке здесь уже была церковь с таким же названием. Преимущества этой площадки были очевидны: она гарантировала прекрасный обзор, что позволяло контролировать залив и охранять город под холмом.

Согласно архивным данным, крепость возвели в 1570 году. В начале следующего века форт решили перестроить, усилив его укрепления. Тратиться на модификации крепости Венеция не захотела, поэтому вся забота о ремонте легла на плечи местных жителей. Чтобы собрать необходимую для перестройки крепости сумму, объявили о новом налоге, что, конечно, вызвало лишние пересуды в Перасте.

Сейчас форт стоит в развалинах. На его территории можно обнаружить старейшую четырехэтажную постройку XVI века и часть защитных стен с западной стороны.

  • Остров Богородицы на Рифе

Об этом острове, который имеет несколько названий и одну красивую легенду, я упоминала выше.

Настоящую католическую церковь Богородицы на Рифе построили уже в 1630 году венецианцы, этим же именем назвали и весь остров. Спустя почти сто лет  церковную постройку увеличили, увенчали куполом, а также пристроили к ней колокольню.

Внутри храма висят барочные картины художника 17-го века Трипо Коколя, который жил в городе Пераст. Наибольшую известность ему принесло полотно, которое составляет в длину 10 м и имеет название «Успение Богородицы». В году 1796 здесь же установили алтарь из мрамора. Церковь славится и своим знаменитым гобеленом, который 25 лет вышивала Ясинта Куник-Майджовиц, ожидая своего возлюбленного, что отправился в длительное и опасное путешествие. Как только работа была окончена, девушка ослепла. Ясинта плела гобелен с помощью золотых и серебряных нитей, а также из своих волос.

Если вы захотите остановиться в Перасте на несколько дней, мой любимый сайт по поиску лучших предложений, предлагает варианты проживания.

Если вы можете поделиться своей информацией, пишите в комментариях к посту.



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Также по теме Черногория:   Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория           Котор. Старый город         Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте           Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен          Будва и Святой Стефан

 

По теме путешествие 2014: 

Путешествие 2014. Начало       Венеция. Проживание              Венеция. Путеводитель по городу           Кемпинг на озере Гарда           Хорватский город Пула                Великий Бриони                Хум — самый маленький город       Деревня Расток в Хорватии                 Плитвицкие озера. Проживание                    Плитвицкие озера — природное чудо света                         Морской орган в Задаре          Проживание в городе Сплит                  Сплит. Дворец Диоклетиана                          Дорога на Дубровник                      Дубровник. Прогулка по городу                      Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория                          Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен                                Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте               Котор. Старый город                                Будва и Святой Стефан                   Река Тара и мост Джурджевича               Как проехать: Сербия-Болгария-Румыния                    Резиденция румынский королей                         Замок Дракулы

208 thoughts on “Черногория. Пераст

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