Морской орган в Задаре

Задар не отличается ничем особенным, это не курортный город и не самое популярное направление среди туристов. Но у нас самостоятельное путешествие, маршрут готовим сами и знаем, что можно увидеть в этом хорватском городе. В Задаре есть уникальное сооружение — «морской орган»

0876В Хорватии, на берегу Адриатики, притаился небольшой город Задар. Точная дата его возникновения теряется в древности, но известно, что где-то в IX веке до нашей эры там обосновалось поселение одного из индоевропейских племён, бродивших тогда по Балканскому полуострову.

И хотя городок находится у моря — где, казалось бы, не может никому помешать, с тех пор с ним постоянно случались разные происшествия. Всё началось в I веке до нашей эры, когда его завоевали римляне. Вроде бы жизнь должна была пойти хорошо. Однако Римская империя через несколько столетий развалилась, и всё покатилось кувырком.

Сначала Задар начал непрерывно подвергаться набегам. После стал попадать под власть то Византии, то франкских племён, то Хорватии, то Венеции. В общем, не скучно было вплоть до 1995 года, когда закончилась война в Хорватии, за которой город закрепился окончательно.

В 2005 году город обзавёлся новым культурным артефактом. На местном хорватском, языке эта штука зовётся Morske orgulje – «Морской орган».

Выглядит он довольно скромно: это сложенные в виде лестницы аккуратные каменные блоки. Но непростые. В верхнем ряду в торцах ступеней проделаны отверстия, соединённые с проходящими внутри пластиковыми трубами. Трубы же, в свою очередь, переходят в резонирующие полости, над которыми на верхней части ступеней находятся другие открытые отверстия.

В результате движения волн и ветра атмосфера над водой перемещается, попадая в торцевые отверстия. В зависимости от того, как происходят эти воздушные колебания – с какой скоростью и с какой силой — получаются различные звуки, доносящиеся из верхних отверстий. К тому же резонирующие полости связаны трубой с морем, и вода, попадающая в них, меняет их объём, внося ещё большее разнообразие в звучание.

1 – входное отверстие для воздуха, 2 – выходное отверстие со звуком, 3 – резонирующая полость, 4 – море Адриатическое

Никола Башич (Nikola Bašić), архитектор, придумавший этот несколько громоздкий инструмент, установил «Морской орган» в 2005 году. За что, кстати, даже удостоился Европейского приза за обустройство городского общественного пространства в 2006-м.

Возможно, это прозвучит как-то странно, но одной из главных целей хорватского «Морского органа» было вовсе не привлечение туристов. В первую очередь власти Задара хотели облагородить вид берега, который был разгромлен во время Второй мировой, а затем обнесён унылой бетонной стеной.

На вид — обычная каменная набережная, ступеньками спускающаяся к морю, на деле — уникальное сооружение, преобразующее колебания воздуха в довольно мелодичные звуки. В торцах ступеней проделаны отверстия, а внутри встроены 35 труб, различающихся по длине, диаметру и наклону. При движении ветра и волн набережная «звучит». Движение морской воды выталкивает воздух через трубы, вызывая диковинные сочетания звуков различной силы и протяжённости.

Прибыли в Задар, долго кружили в поисках свободного места для машины. Парковка 6 кун/час. В обмен на монеты паркомат выдал нам чек с указанием разрешающего времени до 9.00 2 мая. Странно, но ладно. Чек послушно сунули под лобовое. Как потом оказалось, не обязательно оставлять авто за 500 м от набережной, самые ретивые подъезжали к большой круглой инсталляции бесплатно.

Это 22 метровая окружность, состоящая из 300 пластин многослойного стекла, расположенная у самой воды. Используя энергию солнца, в темное время суток инсталяция под названием «Приветствие солнцу» продолжает светить. Но мы были днем и всей красоты не видели.

Набережная, о которой столько читали восторженных отзывов, бури эмоций не вызвала. Может, сразу после Плитвицких это не под силу ни одному сооружению, созданному человеком? Я могла бы написать «восхитительно», «музыкально» и «уникально», но пишу правдивые эмоции. Иначе зачем? Набережная – это ступеньки, на которых сидят туристы. Прибой создает звуки, больше похожие на позывные мартовских котов, чем на этюды великих композиторов. Люди сидят, лежат, ходят, смеются, говорят по телефону, ругаются и весь этот гам перебивает негромкие звуки органа.

Полная версия нашей поездки в ЗАДАР

Если вы любитель эксклюзивных мест, увлечены поиском интересностей, с которыми незнакомы другие туристы. Если вы предпочитаете самостоятельный отдых и собственные маршруты любым пакетным турам от оператора. Если вы ищите нечто такое, чего вы в своей жизни не видели и не слышали, тогда вам прямая дорога в Задар. Этот город со своей необычной музыкальной набережной вас не оставит равнодушными.

Сидеть и смотреть на морскую гладь не хотелось. Запечатлелись для истории, сфотали странного деда, торгующего крестами и вернулись к машине.

На выезде из города заправили бак до полного (1,3 €/1 л). Небо закрыла большая черная туча.

До Сплита оставалось 125 км.

Понравилась запись? Поделись с друзьями!

Продолжение путешествия по Хорватии следует…

Также по теме путешествие 2014: 

Путешествие 2014. Начало       Венеция. Проживание              Венеция. Путеводитель по городу           Кемпинг на озере Гарда           Хорватский город Пула                Великий Бриони                Хум — самый маленький город       Деревня Расток в Хорватии                 Плитвицкие озера. Проживание                Плитвицкие озера — природное чудо света            Проживание в городе Сплит               Сплит. Дворец Диоклетиана                          Дорога на Дубровник                      Дубровник. Прогулка по городу                      Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория                 Черногория. Пераст                Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен                 Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте            Котор. Старый город                   Будва и Святой Стефан                Река Тара и мост Джурджевича               Как проехать: Сербия-Болгария-Румыния               Резиденция румынский королей              Замок Дракулы

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  81. Apple at this time includes Rhapsody as an application, which is a superior get started, still it is at this time hampered by way of the incapacity to retail store locally on your iPod, and consists of a dismal 64kbps little bit price tag. If this variations, then it will to some degree negate this benefit for the Zune, still the Ten audio per thirty day period will nevertheless be a large furthermore inside of Zune Pass’ desire.

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  203. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  205. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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