Деревня Расток в Хорватии

Об этой деревушке практически нет информации в глобальной сети, а в туристических отзывах сплошные восклицательные междометия. На самом деле Расток — это настоящее царство водяных мельниц.

За Карловацем, в местечке под названием Слунь, там где сливаются струи рек Слунчице и Корана, находится природный заповедник — деревня Расток (Rastoke). Место уникальное и единственное в своем роде. На вершине невысокого утеса расположились домики (первый этаж нежилой, каменный, второй — деревянный) и у каждого домика свой собственный водопадик. Как четвероногий друг на привязи во дворе, водопады будто «домашние», укрощенные. Бурлят и вытекают прям из подвала, сливаясь в одну быструю речку. Грохот воды слышен далеко за пределами деревушки.

Начитались в отчетах, что при подъезде к Растоку (Rastoke) слышен грохот воды. Нас довел навигатор, в машине играла музыка, шума не слышали, но охотно в это верим. Об этой деревушке практически нет информации в Интернете, да и местных жителей здесь не больше 50 человек. Но мы уже воробьи стрелянные, знаем, что если на карте и в поисковых системах не засвечено, а в отчетах есть, надо ехать. Сто процентов, будет там нечто уникальное!

Припарковали машину в зоне синих линий, исследовали паркомат. Ни одна из машин, стоящих рядом, не могла похвастаться наличием оплаченного билетика. Либо здесь не проверяют, либо автомат не работает. Уточнять не стали, перешли мост и попали в неимоверной красоты деревню.

История возникновения поселения людей в этой местности носит хозяйственный характер. Энергию воды использовали для работы мельниц. Каждый домик был когда-то водяной мельницей, и кое-где еще остались таблички на дверях, где указаны цены на перемол 1 мешка зерна в муку.

Более трёхсот лет назад деревня с водяными мельницами, рудниками и террасами над водой появилась среди скал и островков, воплотив тем самым идеальную гармонию между человеком и природой. Здесь мололи зерно из окрестных деревень, а с тех пор, как она оказалась рядом с большой дорогой, соединяющей южную и северную части Хорватии, она стала перекрёстком для оживлённой торговли. Большинство сохранившихся домов были построены в конце XIX и начале XX веков.

В 1962 году Расток перешел под защиту Государственного Управления по культурному и историческому наследию, в соответствии с Законом об охране природы, и занесен в качестве сельского объекта в реестр недвижимого культурного наследия.
Во время Отечественной войны в 1990-х годах деревня была полностью разрушена. Она была восстановлена с помощью Министерства развития и реконструкции Хорватии. В наши дни в большинстве домов помещения сдаются в аренду туристам, превращены в рестораны с красивыми беседками над бурлящей рекой.

Как любое уважающее себя туристическое место, деревня Расток имеет свою собственную легенду. Легенда о феях:

«Пока лопасти мельницы перемалывали кукурузу и зерно, мельники собрались вместе и при свете керосиновых ламп до глубокой ночи рассказывали разные истории из жизни. А тем временем феи взяли лошадей, оставленных мукомолами на отдых у плетня до утра. На рассвете феи вернули лошадей без поклажи. Утром мельники обнаружили пропажу мешков и бросились к феям. Но те упорхнули и превратились в струи воды. Их и сегодня можно увидеть там у водопада Волосы Фей».

Многие туристы, побывавшие здесь, называют Расток «Малыми Плитвицкими озёрами». Деревня водяных мельниц Расток демонстрирует природу, приручённую человеком.
Как добраться:

Через всю Хорватию ведет единственная автострада А1. Съезжаете на дорогу, обозначенную на карте «1» и следуйте по указателям к городу Слунь.

Время работы:

В наши дни Расток превращен в деревню-музей. Вход в сезон — 20 кун. Работает с 9.00 до 19.00 кроме вторника.

Продолжение путешествия по Хорватии и Черногории следует…

Понравилась запись? Поделись с друзьями!

Также по теме путешествие 2014: 

Путешествие 2014. Начало       Венеция. Проживание              Венеция. Путеводитель по городу           Кемпинг на озере Гарда           Хорватский город Пула                Великий Бриони                Хум — самый маленький город            Плитвицкие озера. Проживание                    Плитвицкие озера — природное чудо света                         Морской орган в Задаре          Проживание в городе Сплит                  Сплит. Дворец Диоклетиана                          Дорога на Дубровник                      Дубровник. Прогулка по городу                      Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория                       Черногория. Пераст                  Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен                                Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте              Котор. Старый город                                Будва и Святой Стефан                   Река Тара и мост Джурджевича               Как проехать: Сербия-Болгария-Румыния                    Резиденция румынский королей                         Замок Дракулы

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