Великий Бриони

Туристам, приезжающим в Пулу, настоятельно советуют посетить Национальный парк  Бриони, более известный как остров-резиденция югославского вождя Иосифа Броз Тито.

Экскурсии на острова Бриони в резиденцию бывшего президента очень популярны. Острова не просто красивы, они широко известны в научном мире: археологические находки, сделанные здесь, без преувеличения сказать, бесценны. Благодаря мягкому климату, растительность на островах буйная и разнообразная. Кроме 600 видов местных растений, здесь прекрасно растут 30 ввезенных видов. Также можно увидеть рощи реликтового дуба, клубничное дерево, секвойи, эвкалипты. В 1984 году архипелаг Бриони объявлен Национальным парком Хорватии.

0467Известен архипелаг и как место резиденции бывшего югославского лидера Иосифа Броз Тито. В наши дни в резиденции располагается Музей Броз Тито. А поскольку у югославского лидера было очень интересное хобби — он любил наблюдать за экзотическими животными — в наследие от Тито остался замечательный сафари-парк, в котором можно увидеть зебр, жирафов и другой экзотической живности.

0461Известным курортом архипелаг был уже во времена римской империи, до наших дней сохранились на островах руины тогдашних построек. Когда-то на этот остров приезжали коронованные особы и руководители государств, играли в гольф и теннис, ели деликатесы, купались в чистейшей воде Адриатического моря.

Мы посмотрели в Интернете как доехать и решили этот день провести там.  До Fuzana доехали на машине, нашли паркомат и оплатили 3 часа (15 кун). Решили, что хватит. Чем на острове заниматься в апреле?

Купили билеты (170 кун – взрослый, 85 кун — детский) и на большом кораблике отправились в путь. Обратите внимание, касса экскурсионного бюро принимает только наличные(!) Время в пути – 15 минут (3,5 км).

Бриони, Брийуны (хорв. Brijuni) — группа островов в северной части Адриатического моря, около западного побережья Истрии, принадлежащие Хорватии. С 27 октября 1983 года являются национальным парком. Бриони состоят из 14 островов и рифов общей площадью 36,3 км2. Береговая линия сильно изрезана, общая её протяжённость — 37,8 км. Острова отделены от материка проливом Фажана и находятся в 6 км от города Пулы. Самый большой остров — Великий Бриони ( 5,7 км2). До XIX века острова в основном использовались в качестве каменоломен. Некоторое время острова принадлежали Венеции, затем Наполеон I Бонапарт присоединил их к Иллирианской провинции своей Империи.

В конце прошлого века весь архипелаг был куплен за 100 тысяч марок австрийским стальным магнатом Паулем Купельвайзером. И прежде чем острова превратились в престижный курорт, утекло немало воды. Сначала осушили болота, причем на борьбу с малярийными комарами пригласили Роберта Коха, никому не известного тогда ученого. Со своей задачей Кох справился и остался здесь до конца жизни.

 Со временем владелец острова построил несколько гостиниц, обустроил пляжи, разбил на Бриони великолепный парк. Еще позднее появились ипподром, казино, почта, бассейн, теннисные корты, ферма для страусов и винный погреб. А также самое большое в Европе поле для гольфа, имеющее 18 лунок и суммарную длину дорожек 5850 метров.

Курорт стал популярным для элиты. После Второй мировой войны Большой Бриони был превращён в роскошную летнюю резиденцию Иосипа Броз Тито. Тито использовал остров с июня 1947 года по август 1979 для приёма зарубежных высокопоставленных лиц, на нем он провел 2/3 своего правления. В 1978 году в северной части острова Большой Бриони был создан сафари-парк, занявший площадь в 9 гектар. В парке обитают экзотические животные (зебры, олени, жирафы и др.), большая часть которых была подарена Иосипу Броз Тито главами государств.

Очень порадовали и удивили встречающие на берегу гиды с табличками: хорватский, немецкий, французский, английский. Может быть, в сезон есть и русский. Выбирая из зол меньшее, примкнули к англоязычной группе.

Экскурсия на электрическом паровозике занимает около часа. Информация идет через динамики в каждый вагончик. Пейзажи то справа, то слева напоминали заповедник Аскания-Нова. Погода решила не расслабляться и поливала нас дождиком, но мы прятались и зашторивали окна.

Возле сафари-парка небо смилостивилось, и дождь прекратился. Появилась возможность познакомиться с обитателями парка и сделать удачные фото танцующих коров, наглого козла, зебры-Казановы, задумчивого страуса и зебры-брейкера.

Вернулись на ту же площадь. Опять дождь. Экскурсовод зовет туристов в кафе. После Италии цены просто радуют: кофе 12 грн, пирожное – 20 грн. Попили чаю, съели по тортику и решили с экскурсией больше не ходить. Уточнили на пристани, что можем бродить по острову сколько угодно и вернуться на самом последнем рейсе в 19.30. В продолжение экскурсии входит осмотр древних церквей и пешие прогулки по острову. Посмотреть, как жил Тито и посетить саму резиденцию нельзя, только фотовыставки открыты. Не интересно. Природа острова очень красивая, решаем взять электромобиль и ээээх — прокатиться самостоятельно.

На площади выставка мокрых велосипедов и авто. И ни одной живой души. Походили вокруг, покричали. Обнаружился приветливый мужчина, куда-то позвонил и через 5 минут явился транспортный арендодатель.

Можно расплачиваться евро, можно картой, здесь нет проблем. Взяли авто на час (150 кун), но нам разрешили кататься дольше. Спроса нет, мы одни такие.

Как проехать в Динопарк? – спрашиваем у него.

Карина хочет туда и только туда.

— Карта нарисована на стекле, не заблудитесь, — улыбается хозяин машины.

Фауна на острове не пугливая. Видели белку, зайца, косулю, чуть не раздавили большую улитку. Проводили спасательную операцию по возвращению «ползающего домика» на зеленую обочину.  Подъехали к шлагбауму. Закрыто, будка пустует. Когда ехали на паровозике он открывался автоматически. Вышли, осмотрели преграду, нашли кнопку, спасли ребенка от истерики. «Динопарк» — звучит очень преувеличено от действительности. Таинственность придают непроходимые заросли, сквозь которые виднеется статуя динозавра, установленная на берегу. Там же в камне есть следы древних рептилий, и это впечатляет больше, т.к. имеет историческую достоверность.

Мы обошли парк вдоль и поперек и больше не нашли ничего интересного. Уехали. Карина рулила весь обратный путь. Туристов немного, дороги пустынные. Красота!

О Великом Бриони существует красивая легенда — полуостров, подобный саду с чудесными деревьями и омываемый глубоким синим морем, возник по велению Создателя, который хотел придать земле небесный облик. Но Дьявол задумал испортить Его работу, и разорвал мешок, в котором ангелы уносили камни, расчищая землю. Тысячи скал рассыпались по всей Истрии, превратив пейзаж полуострова из райской кущи в контрастную местность, одновременно мягкую и суровую, плодородную и нищую, солнечную и облачную. Безутешные ангелы собрали кусочки Небес, оставшиеся среди рассыпанных скал и укрыли их в морских волнах. Так появились острова Бриони.

Совсем неожиданно вспомнили об оставленной в Fuzana машине. Оплаченное время парковки давно истекло. Повздыхали, но решили возвращаться. Сдали электромобиль, погрузились на кораблик. Вместе с нами возвращались на «большую землю» команда гольфистов. Принято считать, что это игра богачей. Холеных, неспешных, белоснежных. Рядом с нами сидели люди старшего возраста без признаков достатка. Обычные пенсионеры. С сумками, клюшками, мячиками. Громко что-то обсуждали между собой и смачно жевали бутерброды.

Подходя ближе и ближе к месту, где оставили машину, затихли и ускорили шаг.

Ее не было видно!

Вдоль парковки просто бежали, прикидывая, где искать полицейский участок и как объясняться местными стражами порядка. Сердце выпрыгивало…

Нашли. Соседний микроавтобус закрыл ее полностью, поэтому не видели. Порадовались, что вне туристического сезона строгого контроля за парковкой нет. Домой вернулись через супермаркет. Вечером готовили ужин, пили хорватское вино, ели груши с маскарпоне.

Завтра уезжаем из Пулы. Нас ждет самый маленький город в мире, внесенный в книгу рекордов Гинесса.

Продолжение путешествия следует…

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Также по теме путешествие 2014: 

Путешествие 2014. Начало       Венеция. Проживание              Венеция. Путеводитель по городу           Кемпинг на озере Гарда           Хорватский город Пула                       Хум — самый маленький город       Деревня Расток в Хорватии                 Плитвицкие озера. Проживание                    Плитвицкие озера — природное чудо света                         Морской орган в Задаре          Проживание в городе Сплит                  Сплит. Дворец Диоклетиана                          Дорога на Дубровник                      Дубровник. Прогулка по городу                      Прохождение границы Хорватия-Черногория                            Черногория. Пераст                           Мавзолей Негоша на горе Ловчен                                Недорогое жилье в Боко-Которской бухте               Котор. Старый город                                Будва и Святой Стефан                   Река Тара и мост Джурджевича               Как проехать: Сербия-Болгария-Румыния                    Резиденция румынский королей                         Замок Дракулы

250 thoughts on “Великий Бриони

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