Хорватский город Пула

Знаете ли вы, что в Пуле находится прототип римского Колизея? Арена — один из самых больших сохранившихся амфитеатров Древнего Рима.

После Гардаленда мы переехали в Хорватию, транзитом пропустив Словению.

Границу прошли неожиданно быстро.

У нас не было хорватских виз, планировали воспользоваться двухкратным въездом в шенгенскую зону. Придумали легенду, будто едем от друзей в Лиенце (австрийские визы!) домой через Грецию. Как-то так. Чтоб обосновать двойной въезд-выезд. Таким нехитрым образом путешествовать по Хорватии можно и нет необходимости приобретать отдельно хорватские визы. А мы здесь планируем пробыть 11 дней. Наша цель сегодня – город Пула.

Мне кажется, пограничники даже ребенка в машине не заметили. Проверили паспорта, страховку и пожелали доброго пути.

Забронировали Apartments Maria  (70€/2 ночи), находится в 40 минутах ходьбы от центра города. Владимир – приветливый хозяин, вместе с женой-филиппинкой Марией и сыночком Максимкой (типичный азиат) живут здесь же, с парадной стороны дома. Он дал нам карту и показал, что лучше посмотреть в Пуле и окрестностях за 2 дня. Мы приехали в 15.00 (по хорв.вр.), решили не терять время и пойти в город. Дождь прекратился, погода позволяла гулять пешком.

В Пуле все основные достопримечательности сосредоточены в центре, что очень удобно. Амфитеатр видно издалека. Он главный, и возвышаясь, демонстрирует всю мощь истории.

Вход 100 кун за 3 чел., открыт до 20.00, туристов почти нет, русскоязычных аудиогидов тоже. Отсутствие людей не отвлекает от созерцания, проникаешься историей, уносишься мыслями. Никто не мельтешит перед глазами, не шумит и в кадр не лезет. Красота :-P Дима хорошо знает историю, рассказывал Карине о сражениях гладиаторов, о римских императорах и забавах того далекого времени.

Это единственная из сохранившихся арен, которая имеет 4 башни и все три римских архитектурных ордера. При этом по своим размерам амфитеатр занимает 6-е место в мире среди подобных сооружений и является прообразом Колизея. Арена была построена в I веке н. э., в то время, когда Пула являлась достаточно крупным городом Римской империи. Изначально, она находилась за городскими стенами вдоль дороги Флавия. Вместимость постройки, в период её активного использования, составляла 23 000 человек. Трибуны были расположены под уклоном к самой арене, которая имела размеры 67,95х41,65 м. От публики эта территория была огорожена железными решётками. Основным развлечением зрителей были бои гладиаторов и травля диких животных. Под ареной находилось несколько подземных ходов, которые соединяли клетки и само место действия.

Город Пула в Хорватии во времена могущества Римской империи представлял собой крупный порт, расположенный на Адриатическом побережье. В эту эпоху здесь были построены многие знаменитые римские сооружения — форум, канализация, водопровод, мощеные улицы. В целом Пула сохранилась до нашего времени в отличном качестве, включая и храмы III веков нашей эры.

В наши дни в подземной части арены расположен музей, в котором представлены экспонаты древнего быта: античные амфоры, приспособления для изготовления оливкового масла, а также карты и схемы.

Доподлинная история начала сооружения амфитеатра до нас не дошла. Известно, что в начале I века нашей эры во время правления римского императора Августа он был деревянным. Чуть позже при Клавдии уже возводятся каменные стены. Примерно в 80 году при Веспасиане происходит очередная перестройка амфитеатра в сторону его расширения.

В V веке император Гонорий запретил гладиаторские бои, и с того времени началось постепенное разрушение амфитеатра местными жителями. В эпоху Средневековья, территория арены использовалась для выпаса домашнего скота, ярмарок и рыцарских турниров.

В 1932 году амфитеатр переоборудован для театральных постановок, военных церемоний, парадов и различных массовых мероприятий. Количество мест для зрителей составило 5 000

Пока не стемнело, решили прогуляться. Ресторанчики с уличными столиками, сувенирные лавки – все как в обычном городе, привлекательном для туристов. Цены уже сезонные, но дешевле, чем в Италии.

В целом, Пула оставила противоречивые впечатления.

Здания с тысячелетней историей соседствуют бок о бок с современными постройками. Из-за этого первые меркнут в своем величии. Дома сбиты в кучу, будто намешаны случайно в одном месте, как салат «винегрет». Идешь по обычной улице с домами, разрисованными граффити, по улицам ездят машины времен 90-х, а тебе вдруг встречаются огороженные раскопки времен римской империи.

Рядом с каждым историческим строением (например, как возле храма Флавия) есть инфо-доска. На ней отмечено где ты сейчас находишься и куда тебе можно пройти дальше. Фото как выглядело это строение много лет назад и как его реконструировали.

Забрались на холм в самом центре города, где крепость, старинные пушки и оградительный ров. Понравился вид на старый город. Музей истории был закрыт.

Триумфальная арка Сергиуса на главной площади, здание городской ратуши,  римский храм Ромы и Августа. Через несколько дней (2-3 мая) на Набережной города должно было состояться удивительное мероприятие.

Автору этого проекта — известному дизайнеру по свету Дину Шкира пришла идея осветить и раскрасить в разные цвета огромные портовые краны действующей судоверфи. Таким образом, они превратятся в «Светящихся гигантов», возвышающихся над городом. Благодаря сложной системе иллюминации и дистанционного управления краны могут окрашиваться в любой из 16 тысяч цветов, что позволяет создать незабываемое по своей красоте шоу. Ведущие дизайнеры Европы разработали целую серию проектов под общим название Фестиваль Visualia. Шоу светодиодных барабанщиков пройдёт от площади Портарата через Триумфальную арку до Форума, где состоится световое представление с использование 3D видео-проекций на исторических зданиях города. Но мы, к сожалению, этого светового шоу не увидим… Вот уж чего действительно жаль…

Одного вечера для осмотра Пулы нам хватило. Что действительно удивило – хладнокровие водителей в соблюдении ПДД. Наблюдали картину: автобус заехал на остановку неудачно, объехать его машинам не удобно, выстраивается очередь. И все терпеливо ждут, когда он отъедет. Никто не сигналит и не ругается. Это был резкий контраст в отличие от темпераментных итальянцев.

Продолжение путешествий по Хорватии читайте в следующих постах с меткой «Хорватия»

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  324. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  325. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  326. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  327. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  328. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  329. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  330. Its like you read my mind! You appear to know a lot about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with a few pics to drive the message home a bit, but other than that, this is excellent blog. An excellent read. I’ll definitely be back.

  331. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  332. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  333. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  334. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  335. Your place is valueble for me. Thanks!…

  336. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  337. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  354. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  355. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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