Хорватский город Пула

Знаете ли вы, что в Пуле находится прототип римского Колизея? Арена — один из самых больших сохранившихся амфитеатров Древнего Рима.

После Гардаленда мы переехали в Хорватию, транзитом пропустив Словению.

Границу прошли неожиданно быстро.

У нас не было хорватских виз, планировали воспользоваться двухкратным въездом в шенгенскую зону. Придумали легенду, будто едем от друзей в Лиенце (австрийские визы!) домой через Грецию. Как-то так. Чтоб обосновать двойной въезд-выезд. Таким нехитрым образом путешествовать по Хорватии можно и нет необходимости приобретать отдельно хорватские визы. А мы здесь планируем пробыть 11 дней. Наша цель сегодня – город Пула.

Мне кажется, пограничники даже ребенка в машине не заметили. Проверили паспорта, страховку и пожелали доброго пути.

Забронировали Apartments Maria  (70€/2 ночи), находится в 40 минутах ходьбы от центра города. Владимир – приветливый хозяин, вместе с женой-филиппинкой Марией и сыночком Максимкой (типичный азиат) живут здесь же, с парадной стороны дома. Он дал нам карту и показал, что лучше посмотреть в Пуле и окрестностях за 2 дня. Мы приехали в 15.00 (по хорв.вр.), решили не терять время и пойти в город. Дождь прекратился, погода позволяла гулять пешком.

В Пуле все основные достопримечательности сосредоточены в центре, что очень удобно. Амфитеатр видно издалека. Он главный, и возвышаясь, демонстрирует всю мощь истории.

Вход 100 кун за 3 чел., открыт до 20.00, туристов почти нет, русскоязычных аудиогидов тоже. Отсутствие людей не отвлекает от созерцания, проникаешься историей, уносишься мыслями. Никто не мельтешит перед глазами, не шумит и в кадр не лезет. Красота :-P Дима хорошо знает историю, рассказывал Карине о сражениях гладиаторов, о римских императорах и забавах того далекого времени.

Это единственная из сохранившихся арен, которая имеет 4 башни и все три римских архитектурных ордера. При этом по своим размерам амфитеатр занимает 6-е место в мире среди подобных сооружений и является прообразом Колизея. Арена была построена в I веке н. э., в то время, когда Пула являлась достаточно крупным городом Римской империи. Изначально, она находилась за городскими стенами вдоль дороги Флавия. Вместимость постройки, в период её активного использования, составляла 23 000 человек. Трибуны были расположены под уклоном к самой арене, которая имела размеры 67,95х41,65 м. От публики эта территория была огорожена железными решётками. Основным развлечением зрителей были бои гладиаторов и травля диких животных. Под ареной находилось несколько подземных ходов, которые соединяли клетки и само место действия.

Город Пула в Хорватии во времена могущества Римской империи представлял собой крупный порт, расположенный на Адриатическом побережье. В эту эпоху здесь были построены многие знаменитые римские сооружения — форум, канализация, водопровод, мощеные улицы. В целом Пула сохранилась до нашего времени в отличном качестве, включая и храмы III веков нашей эры.

В наши дни в подземной части арены расположен музей, в котором представлены экспонаты древнего быта: античные амфоры, приспособления для изготовления оливкового масла, а также карты и схемы.

Доподлинная история начала сооружения амфитеатра до нас не дошла. Известно, что в начале I века нашей эры во время правления римского императора Августа он был деревянным. Чуть позже при Клавдии уже возводятся каменные стены. Примерно в 80 году при Веспасиане происходит очередная перестройка амфитеатра в сторону его расширения.

В V веке император Гонорий запретил гладиаторские бои, и с того времени началось постепенное разрушение амфитеатра местными жителями. В эпоху Средневековья, территория арены использовалась для выпаса домашнего скота, ярмарок и рыцарских турниров.

В 1932 году амфитеатр переоборудован для театральных постановок, военных церемоний, парадов и различных массовых мероприятий. Количество мест для зрителей составило 5 000

Пока не стемнело, решили прогуляться. Ресторанчики с уличными столиками, сувенирные лавки – все как в обычном городе, привлекательном для туристов. Цены уже сезонные, но дешевле, чем в Италии.

В целом, Пула оставила противоречивые впечатления.

Здания с тысячелетней историей соседствуют бок о бок с современными постройками. Из-за этого первые меркнут в своем величии. Дома сбиты в кучу, будто намешаны случайно в одном месте, как салат «винегрет». Идешь по обычной улице с домами, разрисованными граффити, по улицам ездят машины времен 90-х, а тебе вдруг встречаются огороженные раскопки времен римской империи.

Рядом с каждым историческим строением (например, как возле храма Флавия) есть инфо-доска. На ней отмечено где ты сейчас находишься и куда тебе можно пройти дальше. Фото как выглядело это строение много лет назад и как его реконструировали.

Забрались на холм в самом центре города, где крепость, старинные пушки и оградительный ров. Понравился вид на старый город. Музей истории был закрыт.

Триумфальная арка Сергиуса на главной площади, здание городской ратуши,  римский храм Ромы и Августа. Через несколько дней (2-3 мая) на Набережной города должно было состояться удивительное мероприятие.

Автору этого проекта — известному дизайнеру по свету Дину Шкира пришла идея осветить и раскрасить в разные цвета огромные портовые краны действующей судоверфи. Таким образом, они превратятся в «Светящихся гигантов», возвышающихся над городом. Благодаря сложной системе иллюминации и дистанционного управления краны могут окрашиваться в любой из 16 тысяч цветов, что позволяет создать незабываемое по своей красоте шоу. Ведущие дизайнеры Европы разработали целую серию проектов под общим название Фестиваль Visualia. Шоу светодиодных барабанщиков пройдёт от площади Портарата через Триумфальную арку до Форума, где состоится световое представление с использование 3D видео-проекций на исторических зданиях города. Но мы, к сожалению, этого светового шоу не увидим… Вот уж чего действительно жаль…

Одного вечера для осмотра Пулы нам хватило. Что действительно удивило – хладнокровие водителей в соблюдении ПДД. Наблюдали картину: автобус заехал на остановку неудачно, объехать его машинам не удобно, выстраивается очередь. И все терпеливо ждут, когда он отъедет. Никто не сигналит и не ругается. Это был резкий контраст в отличие от темпераментных итальянцев.

Продолжение путешествий по Хорватии читайте в следующих постах с меткой «Хорватия»

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