Риомаджоре — город-радуга

В былые времена Риомаджоре был неприступной крепостью для пиратов. Сейчас этот город-радуга самый фотографируемый курорт в Италии.

riomadzhoreВсе в городке пропитано стариной, построен он был еще в 13 веке. Его можно назвать одним из самых узнаваемых городов Италии. Неповторимые цветные домики, дружно прилепленные друг к другу, узенькие улочки, крутые лестницы. Город расположен прямо посреди национального парка Чинкве-Терре, в котором осуществляется защита редких видов флоры и фауны. Ступенчатая система, по которой спроектирован город, украшает его, но и делают жизнь опасной. Кажется, что здания грозят свалиться в каньон. Яркие дома – не прихоть жителей. Дело в том, что деревня Риомаджоре всю жизнь жила без маяка и судна, чтобы не сесть на мель, ориентировались по цветным стенам и башням домов.
Riomaggiore00002После поездки в Портовенере, Риомаджоре был следующим пунктом нашего путешествия. Сегодня Пасха, а с утра идет дождь. Благополучно забыли дома наклейки для яиц, поэтому встречали праздник самодельными разрисовками. Позавтракали, воскресили Христоса, утеплились и поехали в Риомаджоре – живописный маленький городок. Его также часто в шутку называют «городом, застрявшим между скал».

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В городе существует запрет на автомобильное движение, поэтому машину надо было где-то оставить. Туристические автобусы и машины облепили все обочины еще при подъезде. Мы решили проехать дальше. Въезд под шлагбаум свободный, видимо, выезд с сюрпризом. Дождь рушил все пешеходно-экскурсионные планы. Опять резиновые сапоги и зонты. И в условиях узеньких улочек пройти между домами с раскрытым зонтом невозможно. Он цепляет стены! Просто не представляю, как здесь могут жить люди с избыточным весом? Они застрянут между домами! Вода течет рекой, делая ступеньки скользкими и опасными. Прошли весь город вдоль-поперек, но именно тех картинок, которые видели в отчетах других путешественников, повторить не удалось. Серое густое небо и отсутствие солнца даже такие цветные домики на скале превращают в грустную картинку.

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Тропа Любви. Так называется живописная, выбитая прямо в скалах и идущая вдоль берега моря тропа, которая связывает два поселения Чинкве-Терре: Риомаджоре и Манаролу. Протяженность тропы всего пара километров, зато на ней нет перепадов и  буквально под ногами море.

Итальянцы придумали красивую легенду, связанную с возникновением этой тропы: жили-были юноша и девушка в городках Манарола и Риомаджоре,  враждовавших между собой. В одной из деревень не было воды, и ее жители воровали ее у соседей, в распоряжении которых был источник. У этого источника впервые увиделись будущие влюбленные. С тех пор они регулярно встречались на скале у моря – ровно посередине между двумя поселениями. Через некоторое время девушка (о, ужас!) забеременела. Ее родные узнали от кого должен  появиться ребенок и собрались убить будущего отца. Перепуганные влюбленные встретились на своем старом месте. Так случилось, что они оба сорвались в море и погибли. После этой трагедии деревни сразу же помирились и начали прокладывать проход друг к другу, каждая со своей стороны. Сошлись два ее конца как раз на том самом месте, где влюбленные рухнули со скалы. Здесь им установили памятник, который сегодня является местом паломничества влюбленных. А проложенный путь с тех пор зовут Тропой любви.

Тропу не прошли, из-за погодных условий ее закрыли. Вход на нее платный — 5 евро.

Возвращаемся к машине. Попутно заглядываем в магазинчики. В одной пиццерии с призывным объявлением о домашней выпечке (запах какой!), покупаем три куска пиццы (всего 7,5€). Все разные: с сосисками, с мясом, меня черт дернул выбрать пиццу с розмарином. Не знаю, какой вкус я хотела получить в итоге, оказалось – тесто с кетчупом, посыпанное сушеными стручками. Как-то несъедобно…

Стряхиваем с себя воду, загружаемся в авто и ждем, когда какая-то машина с местными номерами двинется на выезд. Дождались. Водитель оплачивает стоянку, медленно поднимают шлагбаум, мы давим на газ и проскакиваем следом. Все получилось. Радовались, как дети :-)

Вторую половину дня провели в отеле. Впервые, наверное, никуда не бежали и не спешили. Кушали клубнику с маскарпоне, пили шампанское и дегустировали лимончеллу. Именно в этот вечер родилась фраза, ушедшая потом в разряд домашних цитат: «все богатства вкуса открываются только после третьей рюмки» 8-)

Также по теме:   Портовенере    Маранелло    Недорогое жилье в Лигурии

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