Портовенере — город богини Венеры

Высокие разноцветные берега Портовенере – яркая достопримечательность Лигурийского побережья. Их называют «il miracolo panoramico» дословно «панорамное чудо». Здесь сосредоточены самые дорогие отели, на приколе стоят яхты класса «люкс» самых богатых людей мира.

Портовенере (Porto Venere) – небольшой город рядом с национальным парком Чинкве-Терре (Cinque Terre). Название буквально означает «Порт Венеры» (или «Убежище Венеры») городок получил в честь римской богини любви, храм которой был воздвигнут здесь в древности. Современный город объединяет в себе три небольшие деревни: Портовенере, Феццано (Fezzano) и Ле-Грацие (Le Grazie) – и три острова: Тино (Tino), Тинетто (Tinetto) и Пальмария (Palmaria).

Порто-Венере восхищаются все, кто здесь побывал – от Байрона до Наполеона. Всему причиной уютный залив с прозрачной водой и пестрые, как будто склеенные между собой, домики на полуострове. Чудесные пейзажи, ласковое море, инжировые сады привлекали внимание людей и две тысячи лет назад, и сейчас. Современный город-порт, насчитывающий не более четырех тысяч жителей, имеет древнюю историю.

Сначала хотели ехать на поезде. Спустились к ж/д вокзалу (мы жили в Аулле в этом отеле) , припарковались, пошли покупать билеты. С автоматической системой не разобрались, а говорливая сеньора полчаса о чем-то спорила с билетером. Был шанс пропустить электричку. И он случился. Поезд прогромыхал мимо, и мы решили ехать в город-порт на машине.

О Портовенере я вспоминаю с придыханием только из-за его красоты. Чудесные виды Le Grazie, Fezzano были по пути, но из-за отсутствия смотровых площадок, приходилось нарушать правила, бросать машину на узкой обочине. Непонятен подход властей к осмотру пейзажей. В Турции каждый мало-мальски красивый изгиб моря оснащен с дороги смотровой площадкой. В Италии такого нет. Наоборот – сетка, высокий забор. Выискивали в заборе брешь и делали снимки.

Любимая сказка портовенерцев выглядит так: в лазурных волнах Лигурийского залива появилась из пены морской богиня любви. Как честный человек должна признаться: это всего лишь легенда. Но название свое деревушка получила — Porto Venere в переводе «Порт Венеры». На месте явления богини был основан римский храм. Сегодня на этом месте стоит церковь Святого Петра.

венераИстория и легенда часто смешиваются. Император Антонио Пио (161 г. н. э) оставил свидетельство существования морского порта со времен Римской Империи, жители которого обитали на территории церкви Сан Пьетро. В средневековье селение процветало, благодаря активной монашеской жизни. На островах Тино и Тинетто находятся останки монастыря.

До XVIII века в городе велась оживленная морская торговля. Особое место в торговле занимали вина местного производства и мрамор portoro. Это очень красивый чёрный мрамор с золотыми прожилками. Использовался для внутреннего декора, изготовления полов, колонн и ваз. Мрамор добывался до XX века.

Церковь Сан Пьетро буквально повисла над морем. Она действующая и многие итальянские новобрачные имеют счастье венчаться в ней. Но нас интересовали не романтические свадебные пейзажи, а угрюмый неприступный замок Дориа. В настоящее время в залах замка проводятся различные выставки, проходят театральные представления и концерты. Это внушительное строение, отбившее не одну атаку врага, во времена Наполеона служило пристанищем заключенных. Массивные стены замка хранят не одну тайну.

крепость2 крепость

Мы поднялись по лестнице к внушительному строению четырехугольной формы. Оно не похоже на квадрат и на замок тоже не похоже. Большой серый монолит, кусок расколовшейся скалы. Во времена Наполеона в тюрьму попадали военные противники, приговоренные к казне, бежать из-под охраны никому не удавалось.

Замок Doria открыт: понедельник-четверг с 10.00 до 13.00 и с 14.00 до 17.00, пятница-воскресенье с 11.00 до 13.00 и с 14.00 до 18.00

В 1812 г была построена прибрежная дорога под названием «Маршрут Наполеона » в честь французского генерала. Сейчас она более известна как дорога 530, соединяющая центр Порто-Венере с городом Ла Специа. В 1861 г деревушка с цветными домиками вошла в состав королевства Италии. А в 1997 г вместе с CinqueTerre объявлена ЮНЕСКО достоянием человечества.

В самом городе бесплатных парковок нет. В 9 утра еще можно найти место на платной, но с трудом. Нашли в конце набережной. Впервые попробовали подружиться с итальянским паркоматом (1 ч = 2€), получилось. Как порядочные, положили билетик под стекло и пошли гулять.

В августе здесь проводится красивый праздник вина Мадонна Бьянка. Если вы планируете посетить Портовенере летом, попробуйте деликатесы из морепродуктов, которые подаются в ресторанах с превосходным вином, получаемым на виноградниках CinqueTerre.



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Остров Тино находится в западной части залива Ла Специя, входит в состав коммуны Порто-Венере и находится в 2,5 км от города. Весь остров является военной закрытой зоной, его посещение возможно только в двух случаях: 13 сентября в праздник Святого Венерио и в следующее воскресенье. (Сан Венерио — почитаемый в католичекской церкви святой, живший в VI-VII вв. В его память построили небольшой храм, а затем и монастырь). Вокруг острова можно прокатиться на экскурсионном кораблике.

Также, от пирса Порто-Венере на пароме можно перебраться на остров Palmaria. Это излюбленное место богатых и знаменитых. Живописные пляжи с песком цвета пудры, многочисленные пешие маршруты, загадочный Grotta Azzurra привлекают людей со всего мира.

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  36. The clean Zune browser is remarkably very good, still not as positive as the iPod’s. It functions effectively, nonetheless is just not as instantaneous as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If on your own sometimes method upon using the web browser which is not an issue, nevertheless if you happen to be planning in direction of read through the net alot from your PMP then the iPod’s more substantial exhibit and far better browser may well be crucial.

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  46. Apple at this time consists of Rhapsody as an application, which is a great get started, nevertheless it is currently hampered by means of the inability towards retailer domestically upon your iPod, and is made up of a dismal 64kbps little bit value. If this changes, then it will considerably negate this comfort for the Zune, however the 10 music for every thirty day period will continue to be a big additionally within Zune Pass’ desire.

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  61. This is having a little bit excess subjective, nevertheless I a lot want the Zune Industry. The interface is vibrant, contains excess flair, and some awesome options such as ‘Mixview’ that enable yourself all of a sudden watch similar albums, songs, or other end users similar to what you’re listening toward. Clicking on one of individuals will middle on that solution, and one more fixed of «neighbors» will come into impression, permitting on your own towards navigate around studying as a result of similar artists, tunes, or customers. Talking of users, the Zune «Social» is also outstanding fun, letting on your own track down other individuals with shared choices and starting to be close friends with them. Yourself then can pay attention to a playlist crafted based upon an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening in direction of, which is as well exciting. Those nervous with privacy will be relieved toward understand on your own can reduce the community from observing your specific listening behaviors if yourself as a result determine.

  62. In between me and my spouse we have owned much more MP3 players above the many years than I can depend, such as Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etcetera. But, the past couple of several years I have solved down towards a person line of gamers. Why? Simply because I was satisfied toward check out how well-designed and fun toward use the underappreciated (and commonly mocked) Zunes are.

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  66. This is turning into a bit further subjective, yet I significantly desire the Zune Current market. The interface is colourful, has a lot more flair, and some great attributes together with ‘Mixview’ that allow for your self suddenly check out related albums, music, or other consumers related in direction of what you happen to be listening toward. Clicking on a person of those will middle on that merchandise, and a further fastened of «neighbors» will arrive into belief, allowing for oneself in the direction of navigate over researching by equivalent artists, audio, or consumers. Talking of consumers, the Zune «Social» is in addition fantastic fun, allowing for your self identify other folks with shared tastes and starting to be close friends with them. Your self then can hear in direction of a playlist made based mostly on an amalgamation of what all your pals are listening to, which is furthermore interesting. Those people fearful with privacy will be relieved to notice on your own can steer clear of the public towards looking at your unique listening practices if by yourself hence determine.

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  68. Zune and iPod: Optimum people today examine the Zune in the direction of the Contact, however when looking at how skinny and shockingly minimal and light it is, I check out it in the direction of be a really exclusive hybrid that brings together features of equally the Contact and the Nano. It truly is rather vibrant and attractive OLED screen is a bit smaller than the touch screen, but the participant itself feels Extremely a little bit lesser and lighter. It weighs above 2/3 as significantly, and is significantly smaller sized inside of width and peak, When becoming precisely a hair thicker.

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  70. Between me and my partner we have owned excess MP3 gamers over the many years than I can rely, which include Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and many others. But, the very last number of several years I’ve solved down to one line of gamers. Why? Mainly because I was satisfied towards discover how well-designed and fun in direction of hire the underappreciated (and broadly mocked) Zunes are.

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  73. The fresh new Zune browser is astonishingly Fantastic, nevertheless not as favourable as the iPod’s. It works nicely, however just isn’t as instantaneous as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you once in a while method on getting the website browser that’s not an issue, yet if you might be planning towards browse the net alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s greater show and improved browser may be important.

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  76. Apple at present consists of Rhapsody as an application, which is a superior start out, yet it is at the moment hampered by means of the inability in the direction of retail store locally upon your iPod, and incorporates a dismal 64kbps bit price tag. If this improvements, then it will to some degree negate this comfort for the Zune, still the Ten songs for every thirty day period will even now be a big in addition within just Zune Pass’ favor.

  77. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, nonetheless not as constructive as the iPod’s. It operates properly, nevertheless just isn’t as immediate as Safari, and incorporates a clunkier interface. If yourself occasionally application on having the internet browser which is not an issue, nevertheless if you are coming up with towards examine the website alot against your PMP then the iPod’s more substantial screen and superior browser might be necessary.

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  81. Among me and my husband we’ve owned additional MP3 players earlier mentioned the a long time than I can count, like Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the past pair many years I have fixed down in direction of one line of players. Why? Due to the fact I was pleased in the direction of check out how well-designed and fun in direction of employ the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  91. The Zune concentrates upon being a Moveable Media Player. Not a website browser. Not a video game machine. Maybe in just the upcoming it will do even much better inside people areas, nonetheless for previously it is a extraordinary direction toward arrange and hear in the direction of your music and movies, and is devoid of peer inside of that regard. The iPod’s benefits are its net visiting and programs. If individuals good a lot more compelling, probably it is your suitable choice.

  92. Between me and my husband we’ve owned a lot more MP3 gamers around the yrs than I can depend, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etcetera. But, the ultimate few yrs I’ve settled down toward 1 line of gamers. Why? Since I was satisfied towards explore how well-designed and exciting towards seek the services of the underappreciated (and extensively mocked) Zunes are.

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  96. Palms down, Apple’s application shop wins by way of a mile. It is a huge number of all kinds of applications vs a instead unsatisfied option of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of programs, in particular within the realm of online games, but I’m not guaranteed I’d have to have to bet upon the long run if this component is major towards you. The iPod is a considerably greater choice in that scenario.

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  98. This is getting a bit excess subjective, however I a great deal desire the Zune Market. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some interesting features like ‘Mixview’ that allow you out of the blue check out equivalent albums, music, or other people identical in direction of what you’re listening toward. Clicking upon just one of all those will heart on that merchandise, and one more fastened of «neighbors» will come into viewpoint, enabling yourself in the direction of navigate around looking into via equivalent artists, new music, or customers. Speaking of people, the Zune «Social» is additionally ideal exciting, enabling you come across some others with shared preferences and starting to be buddies with them. Yourself then can hear in direction of a playlist made dependent upon an amalgamation of what all your good friends are listening towards, which is way too enjoyable. These nervous with privacy will be relieved toward know yourself can avoid the general public against seeing your person listening patterns if by yourself therefore decide on.

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  143. If you’re even now on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Least difficult Purchase and ask towards plug them into a Zune then an iPod and look at which one particular seems better in direction of you, and which interface tends to make oneself smile added. Then you’ll comprehend which is straight for you.

  144. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  147. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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  166. I’ll machines this examine towards Two models of These: current Zune homeowners who are thinking of an enhance, and men and women striving in direction of come to a decision between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other gamers relevance looking at out there, like the Sony Walkman X, nevertheless I hope this provides your self plenty of information in direction of crank out an mindful selection of the Zune vs gamers other than the iPod line as perfectly.)

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  179. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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