Пизанская башня

Если бы башенная постройка в г.Пиза не кренилась, а стояла строго вертикально, как все остальные башни на свете, слава ее ограничилась бы лишь узким кругом архитекторов и историков. Благодаря же своему конструктивному изъяну она известна во всем мире.

Мы приехали в Пизу ближе к обеду. От нашего отеля Lunezia Resort в Аулле проехали примерно 100 км, но что это за расстояние для таких матерых путешественников как мы?

Найти бесплатную парковку в Пизе непросто. Город облеплен автотранспортом вперемежку с экскурсионными каретами. Делюсь секретом. В Италии с 13 до 17 сиеста, т.е. никто не работает. Мы нашли заправочную станцию, сплошь заставленную машинами, и оставили там свою.  До 17.00 надо забрать машину, четырех часов вполне достаточно, чтоб осмотреть пизанский башенный комплекс.

Пизанская башня не единственная яркая достопримечательность города. На этой площади стоит не только «падающая башня», но и целый ансамбль достопримечательных строений. Все они относятся к городскому собору Санта-Мария Ассунта. Изначально был построен Пизанский собор, позже баптистерий, после чего начали постройку звонницы. В процессе работ над звонницей, которые продолжались практически два века, у собора образовалось кладбище. Все эти объекты, включая и саму колокольню – Пизанскую башню, в 1986 году приобрели статус Всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО.

Пизанская башня получила всемирную известность благодаря своей хронической склонности к падению. Сами жители Пизы любя называют свою уникальную башню «затянувшимся чудом», потому как ежегодно она отклоняется на 1 миллиметр от своей вертикальной оси и так «падает» вот уже восемь сотен лет. Правда, за все эти столетия башня так и не упала. Более того, с 2000 по 2010 годы Пизанское чудо отреставрировали, и теперь она больше не падает, то есть не отклоняется каждый год еще на какую-то часть градуса. Реставрация прошла успешно не только для башенных стен и фундамента, но и для колокола, который был восстановлен после многолетнего молчания. Ведь любая итальянская кампаниле, то есть башня в составе соборного комплекса, — это колокольня, и только во вторую очередь — смотровая площадка. Теперь колокол звонит и радует слух.

Середина самой башни – это полый цилиндр, с внешней и внутренней стороны облицованный серым и белым известняком. Впечатление создается воздушное, кажется, что она легкая. Это из-за белого цвета и колонн, которые кольцами, как кружевами опоясывают все этажи.

Башня возвышается над землей на 55 метров, в ней 8 этажей и весит она около 14 с половиной тысяч тонн. Сейчас наклон башни равен приблизительно 10 градусов. Но несмотря на наклон всего строения, колокольня стоит ровно. Внутри башни выстроена спиральная лестница, которая насчитывает 294 ступени. Колоколов в звоннице семь и настроены они на звучание музыкальных нот.

Почему же башня падает? Работы по строительству кампанилы начались в 1174. Архитекторами были Бонанно Пизано и Гульельмо да Инсбрук. Фундамент колокольни был заложен на глубине трех метров на «подушке» из камня. Работы по строительству были приостановлены через 10 лет, когда было завершено возведение третьего колоннадного кольца, поскольку появились первые признаки наклона здания. Это объяснялось оседанием грунта, вызвавшего просадку фундамента на 30-40 см и отклонение башни от вертикали на 5 см. В 1275 работы вновь возобновились под руководством архитектора Джованни ди Симоне, который пытался выпрямить ось здания. Высота колокольни увеличилась на три этажа и достигла 48 м. В 1284 были завершены шесть этажей с лоджиями-галереями. Отклонение башни к тому времени составило более 90 см. В начале 14 в. на уровне шестого колоннадного кольца в больших проемах на ней были установлены колокола. Над шестым ярусом башни архитектор Томмазо ди Андрео Пизано возвел галерею со звонницей (1350–1372). В это время отклонение башни от вертикали составляло 1,43 м.

Работы по сохранению башни (проблемы ее наклона) начались еще во время строительства. Первая комиссия экспертов работала на ней в 1298, проверки проводились в 1396, в 1550, неоднократные в 18–19 вв. До нашего времени на ней работали уже 15 комиссий. Чтобы сделать фундамент башни влагонепроницаемым, в него ввели жидкий цемент.  Для временного укрепления фундамента с северной стороны положили 600 тонн свинца.

Знаете ли вы?

В 1564 году в Пизе родился Галилео Галилей, будущий знаменитый ученый. По его собственным рассказам, он использовал Пизанскую башню для своих опытов. С верхнего этажа он бросал различные предметы, чтобы доказать, что скорость падения не зависит от веса падающего тела.

О Галилее и его опытах с башней узнали позже, уже дома из интернета, а так бы забрались на башню и чего-нибудь швырнули вниз. Ради опыта ;-)



Booking.com

Машину забрали по окончанию сиесты, в 17.00. На выезде искали пиццерию. Мы в Италии, хочется вкусить истинно-национального продукта :-)   Но как-то не удавалось. То мест парковочных нет, то до 18.00 пиццу не продают (странно очень!), так голодные вернулись на трассу и поехали обратно в Ауллу.

По набережной ехать одно удовольствие. С одной стороны – пляж и рестораны, с другой – отели. Велосипедные, пешеходные дорожки, фонтаны, фигурные фонари, статуи. Выглядываем пиццерию. Городок Partaccia, у дороги искомая вывеска. Заходим внутрь, рассматриваем интерьер, заказываем «Маргариту», сок и 2 кофе (8,8€). Ну что, вот и пицца. Маргарита – это круглая хлебная заготовка, смазанная томатной пастой и расплавленным сыром. Все. Становится как-то грустно и неаппетитно. Но там, в Остуни (заметка Первый день в Италии) была другая – пахучая, вкусная и сытная!

Так и вернулись полуголодные в наш горный аул. Вечером ели кашу с мясом, домашние консервированные кабачки, пили вино, подаренное соседями по отелю (о них упоминалось в этой заметке)

Эх, что ни говори, а Италия нам нравится!

 

Также по теме:  Родной город Леонардо да Винчи   Портовенере    Риомаджоре    Недорогое жилье в Лигурии

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