Флоренция — город искусств

Флоренция — это край художников, ремесленников, творцов и купцов. Здесь собрано такое количество музеев, галерей, памятников, мостов, базилик и других культурных шедевров, что трех дней, запланированных маршрутом, нам уже кажется мало.

Об этом итальянском городе знают даже наши школьники. Имена великих изобретателей и художников, прославивших в разное время Флоренцию, упоминаются в учебниках литературы, истории и изобразительного искусства.

Планируя маршрут по Италии, на знакомство с культурной столицей мы определили три дня. Три дня — мало, как для города с историей, но если учесть, что на всю территорию Италии с юга на север у нас отведено две недели отпуска, то три дня — это в самый раз. Честно говоря, мы не большие ценители полотен и монументов. Возможно, потому что не привыкли созерцать высокое искусство. Либо не в том городе живем (где это доступно), либо просто культурные ценности — не наш конек. Но Флоренцию планируем исходить пешком. Решили поселиться в центре города, чтоб бродить от скульптуры к скульптуре, вдыхать воздух эпохи Возрождения и питаться вдохновением. Как всегда, поиск жилья начали с отелей.


Booking.com

Этот город был основан самим Юлием Цезарем. Возникшая как древнее поселение ветеранов Рима в 59 году до н.э., Флоренция получила название «Цветущая». В последствии, в XIV в она превратилась в один из самых крупных городов Европы. Золотой век Флоренции продлился с XV по XVI в. И вот в этом «цветущем» городе с бюджетными отелями было так сложно, будто «золотой век» увековечился в ценах.

Спасительно обратились к кемпингам. На том же Букинге нашли чудесный вариант в центре города — Camping Michelangelo.  До аэропорта — 7 км, до главной площади — 5 минут пешком, домики среди оливковой рощи. «Разве это возможно?» — удивлялись мы, — «кемпинг в центре города?»  Забронировали не раздумывая три кровати в халабуде с романтичным названием «шатёр» :-)

Магистраль А1 Милан-Неаполь. Впереди автоматический пункт оплаты. Решили обхитрить. Заехали в ячейку telepass, ждем. Шлагбаум не открывается. Перестроились в другую, где на знаке водитель расплачивается наличкой. Надо нажать красную кнопку, забрать билетик. При съезде с магистрали по нему будет происходить оплата. Погода хмурится и прячет солнце. Нас ждет Camping Michelangelo  в самом центре города. Много положительных отзывов, есть где оставить машину и гулять три дня по самому живописному городу – колыбели деятелей искусства. Выбирали между Camping Village Panoramico Fiesole в пригородном местечке Фьезоле,  Camping Village Il Poggetto в 15 км от Флоренции,  Girasole Camping Village в городке Марина-Пальменсе рядом с пляжем. Этот победил. Территориально круче всех.

Дождь поливает беспросветно. Кружим по параллельным улицам, ищем нужную вывеску. Навигатор показывает, что он рядом, но найти не можем. Увидели! Неприметный выцветший щит и грунтовая дорога вниз.

Да, это не римский кемпинг, где есть здание администрации, 4 человека за стойкой, стулья для посетителей (в заметке «Где остановиться в Риме»). Это окошко в будке, где сидит одна девушка. Дождь льется за шиворот, спрятаться негде. Дама нас долго оформляет, забирает паспорта в залог, дает карту кемпинга, постельное и ключи. Съезжаем вниз, сами находим «шатёр». Это небольшой домик из плотной палаточной ткани, где есть три кровати, две табуретки и мусорное ведро. Всё :-(

Уже после посещения могу сказать: если есть автодом – вам туда.  Мы загрустили. В тенте-шатре делать нечего. Даже розеток нет. Описание территории соответствует на 50%. Да, это оливковая роща, красивые виды со смотровой. Но когда льет дождь и грунтовые тропинки комками грязи липнут к обуви, приятного мало. Туалеты убраны плохо, может, размокший грунт виноват? В душевых только холодная вода. Магазин есть, но работает по странному графику – когда появляется продавец.

В небесной канцелярии перерыв и пока небо не плачет, быстро идем на площадь Микеладжело. Она действительно в шаговой доступности от кемпинга. Именно с этой площади открывается уникальный и потрясающий вид на многие исторические места Тосканы — центр, реку Арно, купол Дуомо. Сама площадь Микеланджело имеет достаточно большие размеры, и практически вся в припаркованных авто. В центре — высокий монумент, посвященный бессмертному творчеству легендарного Микеланджело.

Золотой мост Понте Веккио, резиденция великих Медичи, собор Санта-Мария дель Фьоре, базилика Санта Кроче — все это можно увидеть с главной площади города.

1100-1

Возвращаемся в кафе на территории, пользуемся wi-fi, смотрим прогноз на ближайшие дни. Все также монотонно: дождь и еще раз дождь. Тент хоть и не промокает, но имеет старушечий затхлый запах. Решаем покинуть Флоренцию утром и поехать туда, где светит солнце. На ресепшене нами недовольны. Предлагают переселиться в другие кемпинги города, если нас что-то не устраивает. Соглашаемся. Девушка прозванивает и уточняет наличие свободных домиков. Но мест нет нигде. Жаль.

Чтоб не сбиваться с маршрута, увеличиваем количество ночей в следующем пункте остановки и ищем, что можно успеть посмотреть по дороге. Все прячутся в кафе, едят огромные пиццы, пьют кофе и смотрят в планшеты. Почти в 23.00 дождь прекращается, возвращаемся на площадь Микеладжело, любуемся ночным городом. В тенте сидеть нет смысла — холодно, сыро и скучно.

1107-11109-11110-1Утром сдаем ключи, забираем паспорта, завтракаем в кафешке. Наш провиант съеден, хочется чего-то сытного и горячего.

Но у них только кофе и круасаны.
— Пицца?
— Нет, пицца в продаже только после шести вечера.
— Эх, давайте круасаны.
— Осталось только два.
Что делать? Забираем круасаны, пьем кофе, прячемся от дождя.

Флоренцию часто называют родиной Леонардо да Винчи. Мы тоже так считали, начитываясь туристическими отчетами и рекламными проспектами. Оказывается, это заблуждение. Гениальный изобретатель родился совершенно в другом месте — городке Винчи, который нам тоже удалось посетить в этой поездке.

Как раз туда мы сейчас направляемся… :-)

Также по теме:  Главные достопримечательности Рима    Родной город Леонардо да Винчи 

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188 thoughts on “Флоренция — город искусств

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  71. Zune and iPod: Most us residents look at the Zune towards the Contact, nevertheless when viewing how slender and surprisingly minimal and mild it is, I look at it toward be a in its place exceptional hybrid that brings together qualities of each the Touch and the Nano. It truly is incredibly colourful and lovely OLED display is marginally smaller than the contact screen, however the participant by itself feels pretty a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs concerning 2/3 as a lot, and is considerably smaller sized within just width and top, although remaining precisely a hair thicker.

  72. If you’re nevertheless on the fence: grab your favored earphones, intellect down in direction of a Most straightforward Buy and check with towards plug them into a Zune then an iPod and watch which 1 sounds better towards oneself, and which interface creates your self smile further more. Then you may know which is instantly for on your own.

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  74. You could certainly see your expertise within the paintings you write. The sector hopes for even more passionate writers such as you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. All the time follow your heart.

  75. This is becoming a bit a lot more subjective, nevertheless I considerably choose the Zune Market place. The interface is colorful, has additional aptitude, and some great functions which include ‘Mixview’ that let on your own abruptly watch identical albums, tunes, or other consumers identical towards what you might be listening to. Clicking upon one particular of those people will center on that solution, and another fixed of «neighbors» will occur into feeling, enabling on your own toward navigate in close proximity to researching through very similar artists, new music, or consumers. Chatting of people, the Zune «Social» is additionally perfect enjoyable, allowing for by yourself come across others with shared tastes and turning out to be mates with them. On your own then can hear to a playlist intended based mostly upon an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening in the direction of, which is moreover fascinating. Individuals anxious with privateness will be relieved in direction of realize you can avoid the public against observing your unique listening behavior if by yourself therefore determine.

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  78. Concerning me and my spouse we’ve owned much more MP3 gamers earlier mentioned the several years than I can count, which includes Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and so on. But, the ultimate number of yrs I have resolved down to one particular line of avid gamers. Why? Given that I was happy in the direction of locate how well-designed and entertaining in the direction of hire the underappreciated (and broadly mocked) Zunes are.

  79. you’ve an awesome blog here! would you like to make some invite posts on my blog?

  80. Apple already has Rhapsody as an app, which is a superb commence, however it is at the moment hampered via the lack of ability to retail outlet domestically on your iPod, and includes a dismal 64kbps little bit value. If this alterations, then it will considerably negate this convenience for the Zune, but the 10 tunes for each thirty day period will however be a massive in addition within Zune Pass’ prefer.

  81. Thanks for your posting. I also feel that laptop computers have grown to be more and more popular right now, and now are usually the only sort of computer employed in a household. The reason is that at the same time that they are becoming more and more inexpensive, their computing power keeps growing to the point where they may be as robust as personal computers coming from just a few years ago.

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  83. If you happen to be nevertheless upon the fence: grab your favored earphones, head down in direction of a Great Obtain and inquire towards plug them into a Zune then an iPod and perspective which a person appears far better in direction of on your own, and which interface creates your self smile more. Then you may comprehend which is straight for you.

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  86. The fresh Zune browser is remarkably Wonderful, yet not as Great as the iPod’s. It operates very well, however just isn’t as instant as Safari, and incorporates a clunkier interface. If oneself from time to time system on getting the web browser which is not an issue, nonetheless if you might be creating to go through the website alot towards your PMP then the iPod’s greater screen and superior browser may possibly be crucial.

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  97. Apple presently has Rhapsody as an application, which is a ideal start off, but it is already hampered by way of the lack of ability in the direction of store regionally on your iPod, and incorporates a dismal 64kbps little bit price tag. If this alterations, then it will somewhat negate this ease for the Zune, however the Ten songs for each month will nevertheless be a huge additionally in Zune Pass’ desire.

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  100. Palms down, Apple’s app retail outlet wins via a mile. It can be a significant preference of all varieties of purposes vs a rather sad alternative of a handful for Zune. Microsoft consists of applications, in particular within the realm of games, however I am not certain I’d have to have in the direction of bet on the future if this aspect is major towards your self. The iPod is a a lot improved choice inside of that scenario.

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  104. Sorry for the massive review, still I’m truly loving the contemporary Zune, and count on this, as perfectly as the top quality opinions some other us residents comprise penned, will help on your own decide if it is the immediately final decision for your self.

  105. The Zune concentrates on remaining a Transportable Media Player. Not a world wide web browser. Not a sport machine. Perhaps in just the potential it’ll do even far better in individuals areas, nevertheless for presently it really is a very good path toward prepare and listen toward your new music and motion pictures, and is with out peer in just that regard. The iPod’s positive aspects are its website browsing and applications. If these strong even more persuasive, maybe it is your simplest decision.

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  111. Palms down, Apple’s application store wins via a mile. It is a significant decision of all styles of apps vs a quite unhappy option of a handful for Zune. Microsoft includes packages, primarily inside of the realm of online games, nonetheless I’m not yes I might need to have toward bet on the potential if this component is critical toward on your own. The iPod is a significantly greater choice inside that scenario.

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  114. If you happen to be even now upon the fence: seize your favored earphones, intellect down to a Simplest Order and request toward plug them into a Zune then an iPod and look at which one sounds greater toward yourself, and which interface would make yourself smile additional. Then you can know which is immediately for you.

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  146. Apple by now is made up of Rhapsody as an application, which is a fantastic start off, yet it is now hampered by means of the incapacity in direction of retailer locally on your iPod, and incorporates a dismal 64kbps little bit value. If this variations, then it will to some degree negate this convenience for the Zune, but the 10 new music for every month will still be a massive additionally within just Zune Pass’ like.

  147. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  150. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  151. certainly like your web-site however you have to check the spelling on quite a few of your posts. Many of them are rife with spelling issues and I find it very bothersome to inform the reality then again I will surely come back again.

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  164. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  165. This really answered my drawback, thanks!

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  175. If you might be even now on the fence: seize your preferred earphones, head down towards a Best Obtain and request in direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and watch which one seems better in direction of your self, and which interface generates on your own smile excess. Then you may notice which is right for on your own.

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  178. You can definitely see your skills in the paintings you write. The sector hopes for more passionate writers like you who aren’t afraid to say how they believe. At all times go after your heart.

  179. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  187. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  188. Regards for helping out, excellent info. «Riches cover a multitude of woes.» by Menander.

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