Вулкан Везувий

Везувий — единственный действующий вулкан континентальной Европы. Один из наиболее опасных в мире. За последние 2000 лет произошло 36 извержений. Но «google» подсказывает, что вулкан напичкан датчиками и если проснется, ученые узнают это раньше меня. Звучит утешительно.

Путешествие к кратеру вулкана Везувий мы запланировали еще при разработке маршрута. Быть на юге Италии и не взобраться на самый знаменитый вулкан — это как-то непростительно :-) Поселившись на Villa Diomede и исследовав накануне разрушенный вулканом город Помпеи, утром следующего дня мы отправились к подножию Везувия.

Google выдает скудную информацию: парковка машины 2,5€, подъем к кратеру 8€ с человека. Везувий видно издалека и со всех частей города.  По автостраде A3 Napoli-Salerno (Неаполь-Салерно) ориентируемся на КОРИЧНЕВЫЙ указатель — «Кратер Везувия — cratere del Vesuvio». Они приводят на единственную дорогу к кратеру — via Osservatorio — Contrada Osservatorio. С нее не сворачиваем и приезжаем прямо на автостоянку национального парка. Координаты 40.828543,14.427152

На все наши вопросы можно ли проехать к вулкану и сколько это будет стоить, говорят «by bus» — «т.е. давай деньги за билеты и поедешь на автобусе».  Автобусы – это большие вездеходные машины. По-другому не подняться. Дорога опасная, нас не пустят. Отправление группы через 10 минут, стоимость билета = 22€, детям до 3 лет бесплатно, от 3 до 10 = 7€. Блин, дорого! А как же ценник из Интернета? Продавец билетов разворачивает карту и демонстрирует сложность подъема. Крутые зигзаги 8-O Машиной не преодолеть. Покупаем билеты. Как можно быть рядом и не заглянуть в самый знаменитый в мире кратер?

Всем прикрепили на одежду опознавательные знаки с именем нашего водителя. Этот автобус через 2 часа свезет нас вниз, наше дело — среди одинаковых зеленых машин найти свою. Пристегиваемся и 20 минут трясемся вверх среди высоких сосен, еще 20 минут поднимаемся пешком.

С 1880 года на Везувий можно было подняться на маятниковом фуникулёре, состоявшем из двух больших вагонов, приводившихся в движение паровой машиной. Однако извержением 1944 года фуникулёр был разрушен. В 1953 году на восточном склоне был сооружён кресельный подъёмник, быстро завоевавший такую же популярность, что и предшественник, но землетрясение 1980 года настолько его повредило, что просто не стали восстанавливать. Сегодня вулкан доступен только пешком по оборудованной пешеходной тропе.

До площадки на высоте 1000 метров довозит транспорт, а дальше начинается пешеходный подъем к кратеру. Дорога не длинная, но идет вверх и занимает 20 минут. С обзорной площадки открывается захватывающий вид на Неаполитанский залив, остров Капри, Неаполь и маленькие поселения у подножия горы.

Вулканом у древних римлян назывался Бог огня. Он ковал доспехи в своей кузнице и вырывающиеся из вершины горы облака дыма свидетельствовали о том, что его кузница работает исправно. Мастерская огненного правителя Везувия, по современной версии, подлежит капитальному ремонту. Тяжелая палящая туча раскаленного пепла, насыщенная газом, сорвала крышу и поломала интерьер. Пепловые потоки, поддерживаемые газом как бы на воздушной подушке, способны передвигаться на десятки километров от места извержения. Обрушенная часть вулкана образовала углубление с крутыми стенками – кальдера (от ucn caldera — «котёл»). А все потому, что магма, поднимающаяся по жерлу вулкана, была не в состоянии прорвать лежащие выше и уже застывшие вулканические породы. Растущее давление газов «вышибло пробку» из жерла, и произошел мощный взрыв.

Имеются сведения более чем о 80 значительных его извержениях, наиболее страшное их которых случилось 24 августа 79 года, в результате которого были уничтожены древнеримские города Помпеи, Геркуланум и Стабии. Вулкан выбрасывал смертельное облако камней, пепла и пара на высоту до 30 километров, извергая раскаленную лаву со скоростью 1,5 миллиона тонн в секунду.

После 79г. Везувий на полтора тысячелетия притворился спящим. Проснулся он только 16 декабря 1631г. Во время этого извержения, по разным данным погибло от 4 000 до 18 000 человек: окрестные города и деревни были крайне перенаселены.

Дыра вместо конуса невообразимых размеров. Огорожена бревенчатым забором. Я смотрю на диаметр ямы размером в пять (!) футбольных полей и пытаюсь представить огненный столб, силу и мощь, разорвавшую вершину горы. Несмотря на литературное, художественное и музыкальное образования, гарантирующие богатое воображение, представить это получается слабо.

Здесь наверху понимаешь, как мал человек, как он зависим от сил природы. С виду — яма как яма… Совершенно безобидная :-?

Внизу облака и живая цивилизация. Впереди камни и стаи прилипчивых жуков. Они беспардонно наседают, как осы на банку меда. Закутываю голову в шарф, прячу уши и глаза. Детское желание плюнуть в кратер, как в колодец, исчезает мгновенно.

Кто мог подумать, что здесь – на верхушке виновника тех исторических событий – может быть так противно? Почему о насекомых никто из путешественников не говорит? Ни в одном туристическом отчете я не встретила ничего подобного. Или это только нам так не повезло? Бродить вокруг кратера два часа желания нет. Спасаемся бегством. От полчищ жуков и знаменитой на весь мир «ямы, как ямы».

Замечаю продуктовый пункт продажи. Вода, fast-food, мороженое, сладости. Туристы на лавочках, отмахиваясь от жуков, жуют сосиски. Бррр :-(

Так как мы путешественники независимые, всегда говорим в своих заметках правду. Путешествие к кратеру Везувия до сих пор считаем удовольствием сомнительным. Совершать его или нет — решать только вам. Мы поделились своими наблюдениями, стараясь не забыть о мелочах. «Плюсы» вам понятны. Из «минусов» могу отметить отсутствие WC, переполненные мусорные корзины и отсутствие условий для отдыха на смотровой площадке. Такое популярное туристическое место и так грязно. Раскопать огромный город, проложить дорогу к жерлу вулкана, закупить вездеходные машины смогли, а вытравить летающих бестий не сподобились? :-?

Если вы путешествуете на общественном транспорте, к вулкану можно добраться поездом. Из Неаполя до станции POMPEI — SCAVI VILLA MISTERI = 6,5 евро/чел в оба конца. В пути 25 минут. Вход к раскопкам в 150 м от станции. Расписание поездов на этом сайте

События знаменитой на весь мир августовской катастрофы 79г. впечатлили не меня одну. Картина кисти Карла Брюллова «Последний день Помпеи» помнится еще иллюстрацией со страниц учебника. Литература, музыка и кино в стремлении увековечить потрясения катастрофы тысячелетней давности пишут романы, стихи и песни. Кинематограф удерживает пальму первенства по количеству созданных лент. За период с 1926 по 2014 снято около 10 масштабных картин с воссозданием грандиозных декораций. Ни одна природная катастрофа не удосужилась такой чести, как извержение Везувия. Последнюю экранизацию мир увидел в 2014г. с бюджетом в сто миллионов долларов и слоганом: «Некоторые истории пишутся кровью».

Везувий – это напоминание ныне живущим о том, что надо жить здесь и сейчас. И как говорится в итальянской мудрости «chi si accontenta gode» — счастье довольствоваться тем, что имеешь.

Также по теме:  Помпеи — история разрушенного города    Главные достопримечательности Рима

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  58. I will tools this analyze toward Two designs of Those: recent Zune property owners who are contemplating an improve, and individuals seeking towards determine in between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other avid gamers worth thinking about out there, together with the Sony Walkman X, yet I expect this delivers your self sufficient info in direction of make an aware final decision of the Zune vs avid gamers other than the iPod line as perfectly.)

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  61. Sorry for the substantial assessment, yet I am rather loving the clean Zune, and anticipate this, as nicely as the Wonderful testimonials some other people today comprise composed, will aid on your own come to a decision if it is really the straight choice for your self.

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  63. Arms down, Apple’s application store wins by means of a mile. It truly is a large amount of all sorts of programs vs a really unhappy conclusion of a handful for Zune. Microsoft contains Designs, particularly within the realm of online games, but I am not guaranteed I might need in direction of guess on the future if this element is substantial to on your own. The iPod is a considerably far better choice inside that scenario.

  64. This is an great, an eye-opener for sure! Old school Instagram experts would agree with you. I’m really impressed. I named my pet parrot after you. How much of an effect, if any, will this new event have on the current state of affairs we are seeing right now? You kind of remind me of my best friend.

  65. The fresh new Zune browser is shockingly Terrific, yet not as Excellent as the iPod’s. It will work effectively, nonetheless is not as fast as Safari, and includes a clunkier interface. If you occasionally method upon making use of the world-wide-web browser that’s not an issue, nonetheless if you’re building towards read the net alot towards your PMP then the iPod’s bigger display and better browser may be essential.

  66. The Zune concentrates upon remaining a Transportable Media Player. Not a world wide web browser. Not a match machine. Maybe within just the upcoming it will do even better in just those people areas, nevertheless for previously it really is a outstanding way to set up and listen in the direction of your music and flicks, and is with out peer in that regard. The iPod’s rewards are its world wide web traveling to and apps. If those strong more compelling, potentially it is your least difficult conclusion.

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  68. The Zune concentrates on remaining a Moveable Media Player. Not a world-wide-web browser. Not a activity machine. Maybe inside the long run it’ll do even improved inside of these areas, nonetheless for presently it is really a remarkable course in direction of set up and pay attention in direction of your tunes and flicks, and is with out peer within just that regard. The iPod’s positive aspects are its internet going to and programs. If individuals sound a lot more powerful, maybe it is your easiest choice.

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  70. Apple at present is made up of Rhapsody as an app, which is a excellent start off, nonetheless it is presently hampered by means of the lack of ability toward retail outlet regionally upon your iPod, and includes a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this improvements, then it will rather negate this advantage for the Zune, nonetheless the Ten tunes for every month will however be a massive moreover in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  74. If you are still upon the fence: get your favorite earphones, head down toward a Perfect Buy and talk to toward plug them into a Zune then an iPod and look at which 1 sounds improved in the direction of oneself, and which interface generates your self smile added. Then you may comprehend which is immediately for yourself.

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  77. This is turning into a bit excess subjective, nonetheless I significantly choose the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, includes much more flair, and some neat features including ‘Mixview’ that make it possible for on your own out of the blue perspective related albums, tunes, or other users similar in the direction of what you happen to be listening in the direction of. Clicking on one of these will middle on that merchandise, and a further fixed of «neighbors» will come into viewpoint, allowing on your own towards navigate in close proximity to exploring by way of comparable artists, songs, or users. Conversing of consumers, the Zune «Social» is too fantastic enjoyment, permitting you discover other folks with shared choices and becoming pals with them. By yourself then can pay attention in direction of a playlist developed based mostly upon an amalgamation of what all your pals are listening in the direction of, which is much too interesting. These anxious with privateness will be relieved toward notice oneself can avert the public in opposition to observing your specific listening behavior if yourself hence pick.

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  80. Fingers down, Apple’s app shop wins via a mile. It’s a large conclusion of all forms of purposes vs a really disappointed final decision of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of programs, primarily inside of the realm of online games, still I’m not sure I’d have to have toward bet upon the foreseeable future if this feature is considerable in direction of you. The iPod is a significantly far better determination within that case.

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  86. In between me and my spouse we have owned even further MP3 gamers over the decades than I can count, which include Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etcetera. But, the remaining handful of decades I have fixed down in direction of one particular line of players. Why? Due to the fact I was delighted towards take a look at how well-designed and pleasurable toward hire the underappreciated (and greatly mocked) Zunes are.

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  94. This is getting a bit further more subjective, however I substantially prefer the Zune Current market. The interface is vibrant, contains much more aptitude, and some cool features which includes ‘Mixview’ that let yourself all of a sudden perspective very similar albums, songs, or other end users related to what you are listening toward. Clicking upon just one of these will center on that solution, and an additional mounted of «neighbors» will occur into viewpoint, allowing by yourself in direction of navigate in the vicinity of investigating through similar artists, tunes, or end users. Talking of users, the Zune «Social» is too superior fun, allowing oneself uncover other individuals with shared choices and starting to be close friends with them. On your own then can listen toward a playlist created primarily based upon an amalgamation of what all your good friends are listening towards, which is also interesting. Those people concerned with privacy will be relieved in the direction of notice by yourself can stay away from the community in opposition to looking at your person listening behaviors if on your own thus get.

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  97. Zune and iPod: Maximum humans review the Zune in direction of the Touch, but immediately after viewing how thin and shockingly minor and light it is, I take into account it in direction of be a in its place special hybrid that brings together traits of each the Contact and the Nano. It is unbelievably vibrant and beautiful OLED screen is a little more compact than the touch screen, however the participant by itself feels relatively a bit more compact and lighter. It weighs in excess of 2/3 as a lot, and is considerably smaller sized inside width and peak, even though getting simply just a hair thicker.

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  100. The Zune concentrates on staying a Transportable Media Player. Not a world-wide-web browser. Not a sport machine. Possibly within just the long run it’s going to do even improved within just individuals areas, but for now it’s a Good route in the direction of prepare and pay attention towards your tunes and movies, and is with out peer in that regard. The iPod’s advantages are its website browsing and programs. If people reliable further compelling, perhaps it is your easiest determination.

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  102. Hands down, Apple’s application retail store wins by way of a mile. It is really a large amount of all types of purposes vs a alternatively not happy final decision of a handful for Zune. Microsoft incorporates Options, specifically in the realm of online games, still I’m not sure I might require toward wager on the potential if this component is critical to yourself. The iPod is a substantially much better option inside of that case.

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  106. Zune and iPod: Most humans look at the Zune in the direction of the Contact, yet once viewing how slim and surprisingly minor and light-weight it is, I choose it in direction of be a rather one of a kind hybrid that combines features of both equally the Contact and the Nano. It’s incredibly vibrant and gorgeous OLED exhibit is somewhat smaller sized than the contact screen, nevertheless the player by itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs regarding 2/3 as substantially, and is considerably smaller sized in just width and peak, although remaining particularly a hair thicker.

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  150. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  162. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  166. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  177. Zune and iPod: Utmost folks assess the Zune towards the Touch, nevertheless once observing how thin and astonishingly reduced and light-weight it is, I try it in the direction of be a alternatively distinctive hybrid that brings together features of both the Touch and the Nano. It really is incredibly colorful and attractive OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player by itself feels quite a little bit smaller and lighter. It weighs above 2/3 as a lot, and is noticeably scaled-down in just width and peak, although staying simply a hair thicker.

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  180. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  182. We’re a group of volunteers and starting a new scheme in our community. Your web site provided us with valuable info to work on. You have done an impressive job and our entire community will be grateful to you.

  183. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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