Помпеи. История разрушенного города

О Помпеях написана целая библиотека. Поэты сотни лет сочиняют стихи, писатели — новеллы и романы.  Всемирный кинематограф посвятил этому городу десятки картин. Жизнь и гибель Помпей иллюстрировали полотна художников разных времен. Помпеи — один из самых знаменитых городов мира. Будучи в Италии, мы не могли проехать мимо вековой истории, знакомой нам еще со школьных учебников.

Название «Помпеи» известно с VI в. до н.э. и свидетельствует о том, что город возник в результате слияния нескольких небольших соседних поселений. Само слово pumpe — числительное «пять», что в отношении к городу означало его деление на пять частей. Существует также гипотеза происхождения слова «Помпеи» от греческого «pompe» — «триумфальное шествие». Существует легенда об основании Помпей и соседнего Геркуланума: победив великана, Геракл именно так — торжественно — прошел по городу. Но для нас, простых советских школьников, это название ассоциируются с самой грозной катастрофой, запечатленной на картинах Айвазовского «Гибель Помпеи» 1889 г. и Брюллова К.П. «Последний день Помпеи» 1828 г.

Ни один из европейских художников не удостоился в XIX веке такого грандиозного триумфа, какой выпал на долю русского живописца Карла Павловича Брюллова. О Помпеях писали Гоголь и Пушкин, но лишь Брюллов на этой теме проснулся утром знаменитым. Так в чем же загадка Помпей? Почему спустя сотни-сотни лет это место коллективной смерти притягивает к себе как магнитом толпы туристов?

Поселились мы в отеле с гордым названием Villa Diomede  Из требований: номер с кухней, парковка во дворе и чтоб недалеко от входа в музей. И недорого, желательно. Остановились на этом трехзвездочном на 2 ночи. Есть парковка, внутренний дворик, шаговая доступность. Рядом ездит небольшая электричка, шлагбаум с прикольным сигналом. В общем, рекомендую. Не промахнетесь.

Погода изрядно над нами издевалась. Вода под ногами течет рекой, ветер вырывает зонтик и пригоршнями швыряет за шиворот дождь. Холодно, мерзко и противно. Но это пустяки, жителям Помпей повезло меньше в те страшные раскаленные августовские дни 79 г. н.э.

Фрагмент объемной карты руин Помпей. Национальный Археологический музей Неаполя

Позавтракав, мы решаем идти смотреть знаменитые руины, несмотря на дождь. У нас есть зонты и резиновые сапоги, и всего один день на этот город.  От нашего отеля Villa Diomede до входа на территорию комплекса 7 минут ходьбы. Мы здесь для того, чтобы увидеть город, который откопали из пепла каких-то 150 лет назад.

Возле входа очередь. И это в дождь! Если 27 апреля столько туристов, что здесь летом? Простояли минут тридцать. Билет в кассе 11€, для детей скидок нет. Вокруг снуют предприимчивые негры (не расистка, просто так понятнее) продают все, что может потребоваться в этот день туристу: дождевик, зонтики, непромокаемые пакеты для фототехники и даже калоши. При фокусировке объектива быстро отворачиваются и теряются в толпе.

Есть аудиогид на 4 языках, но русского нет. Есть карты на английском, немецком, испанском, французском. Бесплатные. Берем английскую, покупаем билеты, идем по указателям. Русских не видно и не слышно, смелеем и разговариваем громче.

 Наверно, это самая известная катастрофа в Италии. Нельзя сказать, что извержение Везувия было самым сильным извержением вулкана, когда-либо произошедшим на нашей планете. Вовсе нет. Но оно произошло в центре могущественной державы, на глазах людей, уверенных в исключительности своей страны. Был разрушен большой процветающий город. Шок, который вызвала эта катастрофа, можно сравнить с тем эффектом, который имело разрушение башен-близнецов в Нью-Йорке через 1922 года. О Помпеях написаны целые библиотеки, повторяться смысла нет. Блуждая по улочкам диву даешься как это все сохранилось через века?

Этот город (и ещё два – Геркуланум и Стабия плюс несколько близлежащих вилл) был уничтожен во время извержения Везувия в 79 году н.э. Помпеям повезло больше, чем Геркулануму. Капризный вулкан выплеснул лаву на второй город, а первый лишь засыпал слоем пепла. При желании, можно было сбежать из города и остаться в живых. Так и сделали самые умные и самые богатые, оставив челядь стеречь владения. Выполняя приказ, слуги погибли вместе с городом. Место катастрофы забросили, а в 1599 г. нашли случайно. Один фермер рыл в огороде колодец, наткнулся на пустоту и, окопавшись, оказался посреди амфитеатра. Насмерть перепугался от неожиданности, находку забросил и вырыл колодец в другом месте. Но любопытство человеческое – вещь великая, на его пути лучше не стоять. Группа археологов в середине XVIII века основательно взялась за раскопки похороненного под пеплом города. Оказалось, он сохранился изумительно, каким был до бедствия. Под многометровой толщей застывшей лавы были обнаружены улицы, дома с полной обстановкой, люди и животные. Благодаря внезапной и быстрой гибели Помпеи являются самым сохранившимся античным городом.

За два с половиной века изучения Помпей методы раскопок и способы их консервации менялись. История раскопок города подробно описана здесь. Сотни странных пустот в спрессованном пепле, найденных по всему городу, один из археологов догадался заполнить гипсом и получить слепки человеческих тел, застывших в момент гибели. Сегодня эта странная экспозиция собрана в музей под открытым небом.

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Туризм в места коллективной смерти процветает и по сей день. Выставки и постоянные экспозиции пользуются успехом. Если кому интересны археологические экспедиции в Помпеи, полный перечень здесь. Несколько лет назад в СМИ проскочило сообщение, что территорию Помпей теперь будут охранять из космоса с целью мониторинга и защиты археологических раскопок этих трех пострадавших городов.

Среди торговцев сувенирами встречаем парня из Тулы, он продает магниты (5 шт. за 10€ — это считается дешево), говорит, что 10 лет назад приехал сюда как турист да так и остался. Дождь прекратился, идем в город.

Сейчас это одноименный современный город с населением в 22 000 человек. Шумное движение, пестрящие вывесками отели, туристы и патрульные машины Carabinieri — ничем его не отличают от других итальянских городов. Разница лишь в том, что сегодняшние жители Помпей, построившие дома рядом с действующим вулканом, своей бесшабашностью дадут фору каждому любителю экстрима.

Вышли вечером сделать кадры со штатива. Размытый силуэт, блики, полосы света. Должно получиться красиво. Пока настраивались и делали снимки, рядом бесшумно тормозит полицейская машина. Как в кино: медленно опускается стекло, физиономия в фуражке здоровается и спрашивает на английском что мы здесь делаем.

— Foto, — говорит Дима. И по-русски: туристы.
— Where are you from?
— Ukraine.

Парни кивнули и поехали дальше. Мы вернулись в отель Villa Diomede. Завтра нас ждет Везувий — самый известный вулкан Европы.

Также по теме:  Вулкан Везувий   Главные достопримечательности Рима

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