Удивительный город Альберобелло

Пару лет назад на просторах интернета я нашла вот эту красивую картинку. И ужасно захотелось там побывать. Она, как магнит, притягивала все мои мысли, являясь заставкой на рабочем столе.   По закону материализации мысли, вскоре Альберобелло я увидела собственными глазами.

Живописный итальянский городок в провинции Бари (Апулия) прославился на весь мир именно этим изобретением — домами цилиндрической формы с конусовидными крышами. Суть этого изобретения  в хитрости и сообразительности местных жителей.

Сказочные здания городка Альберобелло построены полностью из камня, причем даже без использования специальных материалов для скрепления швов. Крыши домов выполнены в виде конусов, на вершине которых расположены звезды, а на самих крышах нарисованы знаки зодиака.

После промаха с Остуни (Первый день в Италии), в Альберобелло доезжаем без проблем. Это обычный город, ничем с виду непримечательный. Где маленькие былые домики, где круглые крыши? Кружим по улицам целый час, но из виденных на фото картинок встречаются одиночные домишки. И всё. Становится печально-печально. Второй итальянский город и вторая неудача. Навигатор водит кругами, мобильного Интернета не имеем, в нашем распоряжении только карта. Да еще этот скудный словарный запас! Когда третий раз выехали за город и опять по указателям вернулись, думали уже бросить эти поиски.

Но Дима решает оставить машину и идти дальше пешком. Обочина прорисована синими линиями, платная. Находим кое-какое место, отправляемся по пешеходным указателям. Уходим куда-то вглубь города, и мне кажется, что машину свою мы больше не найдем :-(

TRULLO – это деревушка музейного типа, это целый пешеходный район в части города, в котором сохранились исторические домики с круглыми крышами, уходящие корнями в царские века. Этих маленьких домиков, будто сошедших со страниц сказки, там полторы тысячи. Чтоб их найти, нужно ориентироваться на дорожные указатели коричневого цвета с надписью trullo.

Немного истории: Во второй половине XVII в. арагонский граф Джанджироламо II Аквавива приказал крестьянам строить дома, которые можно легко и быстро разобрать. Эта уловка давала возможность уклониться от уплаты налога на недвижимость, которым Королевство Неаполя обложило вассалов в подчиненных территориях. Построенные таким образом хижины можно было разобрать, выдернув всего один камень из кладки, по аналогии с карточным домиком. Как только Аквавиве доносили о готовящейся инспекции, словно по мановению волшебной палочки исчезали целые деревни. За это граф получил прозвище «косой из Апулии».

В 1797 году специальным указом короля Неаполя Фердинанда IV Бурбона город Альберобелло получил свободу и необходимость в постоянном строительстве и разрушении домов у жителей отпала.

Мы ходили по улочкам белого городка и удивлялись миниатюрным постройкам. Круглые домики, круглые крыши. Все какое-то сказочное.

Трулли представляет собой однокомнатную конструкцию, построенную методом сухой кладки с конической крышей из тонких известковых плит, увенчанной так называемым cuccurino — каменным шпилем произвольной формы. Второй слой известковых плит — кьянкарелла — покрывает только верхнюю часть конуса.  Единственным источником света служило входное отверстие. Белый цвет наружных стен, помимо защитной функции в летнюю жару, делает их особенно привлекательными.

Не случайно в 1996 году Альберобелло стал частью Всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО.

Сделали много фотографий, вернулись к машине (нашли ее!), проложили навигатору маршрут к Помпеям. Никаких поисков больше. Вперед, нас ждет город, о котором мы знаем еще из учебников истории.

Навигатор прокладывает дорогу платными магистралями через Барии и Андрию. Хм, думаем, как быть? Юг – он неповторим. Невысокие цветные домики на холме, собранные в небольшой городок, зеленые поля, козы на дороге, виноградники, оливковые деревья. Там, выше Рима, такого уже не встретишь. А здесь есть возможность прикоснуться к «оспiванному» и, значит, легендарному курорту Сорренто и всему побережью Амалфи. Когда мы сможем вернуться в эти места еще раз? Решаем ехать нижним маршрутом, т.е. бесплатными дорогами. Чтоб захватить побольше колорита.

В общем, поехали мы через Солерно и чуть не сошли с ума. Безумные пробки, бешеные водилы, пешеходы под колесами, торговля на обочинах, все толкаются и орут друг на друга. Вполне обычная картинка: дама стоит посреди дороги и громко «беседует» с подругой, высунувшееся в окно третьего этажа. И то, что дама мешает движению и каждая машина, объезжая препятствие, грозно сигналит даму эту нисколько не тревожит. А скутеры! Они как мухи! Появляются из ниоткуда. Жуть! Навигатор нам мстит и водит параллельными дорогами по этому сумасшедшему городу второй час. Бумажная карта показывает, что где-то рядом Помпеи, но выехать из Солерно не удается. То из-за плотного движения пропустим съезд, то нырнем под мост, который навигатор не видит, возвращаемся. И этому нет конца…

 

Также по теме: Паром из Греции в Италию   Первый день в Италии   Помпеи

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  84. Zune and iPod: Maximum All those assess the Zune in the direction of the Touch, nevertheless when watching how skinny and surprisingly lower and mild it is, I try it toward be a as a substitute unique hybrid that combines characteristics of each the Contact and the Nano. It’s unbelievably colorful and attractive OLED screen is a little bit smaller than the contact screen, still the player by itself feels pretty a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs around 2/3 as much, and is appreciably lesser in just width and top, whilst being exactly a hair thicker.

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  86. Arms down, Apple’s application keep wins by way of a mile. It is a enormous final decision of all varieties of applications vs a alternatively disappointed quantity of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has Options, particularly within just the realm of game titles, nonetheless I’m not confident I’d want to guess on the potential if this feature is sizeable towards yourself. The iPod is a a lot improved determination in that scenario.

  87. The Zune concentrates upon becoming a Portable Media Player. Not a world-wide-web browser. Not a activity machine. Probably in just the long run it’ll do even superior within just those areas, nevertheless for at present it’s a Wonderful way towards prepare and pay attention toward your songs and movies, and is devoid of peer in just that regard. The iPod’s advantages are its world-wide-web going to and applications. If individuals solid a lot more persuasive, possibly it is your best alternative.

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  95. Apple at this time has Rhapsody as an application, which is a exceptional start, nonetheless it is currently hampered via the incapability towards shop locally upon your iPod, and includes a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this improvements, then it will to some degree negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs for each month will even now be a substantial furthermore within Zune Pass’ want.

  96. This is getting a little bit additional subjective, but I considerably prefer the Zune Market place. The interface is vibrant, includes added aptitude, and some interesting characteristics which include ‘Mixview’ that allow by yourself instantly view similar albums, tunes, or other end users identical in the direction of what you might be listening toward. Clicking upon one particular of all those will center upon that product or service, and one more fixed of «neighbors» will appear into feeling, making it possible for oneself in direction of navigate in the vicinity of studying by way of comparable artists, music, or customers. Chatting of consumers, the Zune «Social» is as well ideal pleasurable, making it possible for yourself find other folks with shared preferences and getting to be close friends with them. You then can pay attention to a playlist designed based upon an amalgamation of what all your mates are listening toward, which is moreover interesting. Individuals anxious with privateness will be relieved towards understand your self can reduce the public against viewing your unique listening behaviors if your self thus take.

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  102. The Zune concentrates upon remaining a Transportable Media Player. Not a world wide web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe inside the potential it will do even better inside of these areas, nonetheless for at the moment it’s a fantastic course in direction of arrange and pay attention to your music and videos, and is without peer inside that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its world-wide-web traveling to and apps. If those people sound even more compelling, maybe it is your perfect decision.

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  199. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  201. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  202. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  204. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  205. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  207. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  208. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  210. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  211. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  214. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  215. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

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  218. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  221. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  222. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  224. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  240. Palms down, Apple’s app keep wins by a mile. It is really a large decision of all kinds of purposes vs a pretty unsatisfied choice of a handful for Zune. Microsoft consists of plans, especially inside of the realm of games, nonetheless I am not yes I might will need towards wager upon the upcoming if this component is important towards oneself. The iPod is a significantly greater preference inside that scenario.

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  243. The Zune concentrates on being a Moveable Media Player. Not a internet browser. Not a sport machine. Maybe within just the foreseeable future it will do even far better in people areas, but for previously it truly is a very good direction to organize and pay attention in the direction of your audio and motion pictures, and is devoid of peer within that regard. The iPod’s advantages are its world-wide-web browsing and apps. If all those strong a lot more persuasive, potentially it is your least difficult determination.

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  245. Apple at the moment is made up of Rhapsody as an app, which is a fantastic get started, nonetheless it is currently hampered by means of the incapability in direction of store domestically upon your iPod, and consists of a dismal 64kbps bit price tag. If this alterations, then it will considerably negate this usefulness for the Zune, but the 10 songs for each month will nevertheless be a significant furthermore within just Zune Pass’ favor.

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  247. Zune and iPod: Highest persons examine the Zune in direction of the Touch, but once looking at how slender and amazingly tiny and light-weight it is, I take into account it in direction of be a really one of a kind hybrid that brings together properties of possibly the Contact and the Nano. It can be incredibly colorful and beautiful OLED display is a little lesser than the touch screen, however the participant by itself feels fairly a little bit lesser and lighter. It weighs around 2/3 as a lot, and is noticeably smaller sized inside of width and height, When becoming exactly a hair thicker.

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  249. Fingers down, Apple’s app keep wins via a mile. It is a significant range of all varieties of programs vs a alternatively disappointed number of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of Options, primarily inside the realm of video games, nonetheless I’m not indeed I’d want towards guess upon the long run if this section is considerable to on your own. The iPod is a substantially greater determination within that situation.

  250. This is using a little bit far more subjective, nevertheless I significantly want the Zune Market. The interface is vibrant, has excess flair, and some interesting features such as ‘Mixview’ that enable you abruptly see very similar albums, tunes, or other consumers very similar towards what you’re listening toward. Clicking upon one of those people will center on that products, and a further established of «neighbors» will occur into check out, allowing on your own towards navigate in close proximity to investigating as a result of related artists, audio, or users. Speaking of end users, the Zune «Social» is also superb entertaining, letting on your own discover others with shared preferences and starting to be friends with them. Yourself then can hear toward a playlist produced dependent upon an amalgamation of what all your buddies are listening towards, which is on top of that interesting. Those anxious with privateness will be relieved to recognize yourself can avert the general public versus watching your particular person listening behavior if on your own as a result opt for.

  251. Zune and iPod: Highest americans look at the Zune toward the Touch, nonetheless the moment viewing how thin and surprisingly reduced and light-weight it is, I take into account it to be a instead unique hybrid that brings together attributes of both equally the Contact and the Nano. It’s rather colourful and attractive OLED exhibit is a little more compact than the contact screen, nevertheless the player itself feels rather a little bit lesser and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as significantly, and is considerably lesser within just width and height, despite the fact that being simply just a hair thicker.

  252. Apple by now contains Rhapsody as an app, which is a Terrific start off, still it is already hampered by way of the incapability in direction of shop regionally upon your iPod, and is made up of a dismal 64kbps little bit selling price. If this variations, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, still the 10 audio per thirty day period will however be a significant moreover inside Zune Pass’ prefer.

  253. Zune and iPod: Optimum Those evaluate the Zune to the Touch, yet once observing how skinny and remarkably very little and mild it is, I try it toward be a quite exclusive hybrid that brings together attributes of the two the Touch and the Nano. It truly is rather colourful and attractive OLED exhibit is somewhat more compact than the touch screen, nevertheless the participant itself feels fairly a bit more compact and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as considerably, and is drastically lesser in just width and peak, When being specifically a hair thicker.

  254. Zune and iPod: Greatest americans evaluate the Zune in the direction of the Touch, nevertheless just after seeing how slender and shockingly minor and gentle it is, I try it towards be a very exclusive hybrid that combines features of both equally the Contact and the Nano. It’s incredibly vibrant and gorgeous OLED display screen is slightly scaled-down than the contact screen, yet the player alone feels pretty a bit smaller sized and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as considerably, and is significantly smaller within width and top, despite the fact that staying basically a hair thicker.

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