Паром из Греции в Италию

Добраться в Италию из Греции можно несколькими способами. Мы выбрали самый быстрый и интригующий — автомобильным паромом. Тревога крылась в том, что билет на него мы не бронировали заранее.

После осмотра монастырского комплекса наш маршрут сворачивает в сторону Италии. С Грецией в эту поездку прощаемся. Переночевали в чудном гостеприимном отеле San Giorgio Villa, впечатлились поднебесными монастырями Метеора и выехали на трассу, ведущую к Игуменице. Там порт и паром, который перевезет нас в страну виноградников, родину темпераментного Челентано и гениального Феллини.

Пикник на обочине. Апрель в Греции — это наш июнь. Зелень, жара, мухи :-)

При разработке маршрута учитывались разные варианты переезда в Италию: через Македонию (или Албанию) по странам бывшей Югославии в Италию. В путешествии всегда можно найти кучу интересностей. В любой стране. Но получалось, что при ограниченном количестве дней мы сможем из всей Италии посмотреть только север. А хотелось всю ее — от юга до севера. Авантюрно, конечно, но хотелось ;-) Поэтому решились на паром. А «Югославию» отложили на следующий год.  Информация в интернете разная. Есть список паромных компаний и расписание, можно узнать варианты размещения и стоимость поездки на www.ferriesingreece.com. Мы выбрали компанию Grimaldi Lines из порта Игуменица (Греция) в порт Бриндизи (Италия). Как раз в каблук сапога, если смотреть на карту. Рейс ночной. В нем есть два плюса: экономия времени — пока паром плывет и сокращает тебе расстояние, ты спишь. И экономия на проживании — пока паром плывет, ты в нем живешь как в отеле с парковкой. Замечать плюсы и правильно перемещаться в пространстве нас научил все тот же добрый друг, история путешествий которого нас вдохновила и подтолкнула к самостоятельным семейным поездкам на машине.

Никто на туристических форумах не советовал бронировать паром заранее. Тем более, за месяц-два-три. Греки — народ непредсказуемый. Сегодня сиеста, завтра забастовка. Решили покупать билет по прибытию в порт, надеясь, что форс-мажоров не будет, и наше путешествие состоится по разработанному плану. Еще часто встречалась информация, что  билет необходимо оплачивать наличными, никаких банковских карт, поэтому сумму на паром отложили заранее.

Сумма вычитается легко. В графе «информация о пассажирах» указываете количество и возраст каждого, а также кто водитель. «Информацию об автомобиле» заполняете по списку: тип, марка, модель, с прицепом или без, верхний багажник есть или нет.  Еще надо выбрать условия вашего перемещения на пароме. Иногда на сайтах компаний они отображены значками, иногда терминами. Air type seats (Poltrone) — кресла как в самолете — комфортные и расположенные по принципу салона самолета. Deck или Economy class — самый дешевый вариант проезда. Это просто билет на палубу. Есть деревянные скамейки или простенькие сиденья. Этот билет без конкретного места.  Каюты (Cabine) бывают 2-, 4- или 6-местные. Могут быть с иллюминаторами и без. Без иллюминатора дешевле. Если вы не занимаете всю каюту, важно не забыть указать пол при бронировании билета, т.к. размещение в каютах идет по половому признаку — женщины отдельно, мужчины — отдельно. Когда вы определились с типом размещения на пароме, нажимаете кнопку «стоимость» и получаете свой приговор :-)

Это был первый паром в нашей жизни, и при разработке маршрута ночная паромная переправа в Италию нам представлялась настоящим морским приключением. Как на круизном лайнере, где все включено ;-) 

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!!! Если вы передвигаетесь на арендованной машине, необходимо получить письменное разрешение на перевозку автомобиля морем в прокатной конторе. Также следует помнить, что страховое покрытие не распространяется на инциденты, случившиеся во время перевозки морем.

Игуменица – город молодой. Большие указатели ведут прямо в порт. Сегодня ночью мы переплываем Ионическое море и утром окажемся в стране песенных Сан-Ремо, Сорренто, плавучих гандол и игристого вина. Как ни крути и не вычисляй, паром – самый удобный способ добраться с минимальной потерей времени в Италию. Смирившись с самой дорогостоящей ночевкой за все дни путешествия, приобрели билеты на единственный паром до Бриндизи (port offices — в большом белом здании с синей крышей). Отправление в час ночи, погрузка с 23.00, терминал №4. Долго не раздумывали, взяли каюту. Мы с ребенком, это раз. Завтра с утра и до вечера рулить по Италии до самых Помпей, надо выспаться – это два.

В одной кафешке с пугающим названием «Карма» обнаружили wi-fi, там и засели в ожидании 23.00. С парковкой не удачно (заборы, лужи), зато рядом со входом. За капучино, сок, пирожное и воду отдали 11€. Вроде бы и не дорого, когда смотришь на цифру, но когда переводишь в гривны, получается прилично :-?

И так будет во всех последующих странах. А пока нас ждало первое в жизни ночное путешествие на пароме.

В 23.00 стали пропускать транспортные средства через терминал. Люди в форме с оружием и служебными собаками проверяют документы, досматривают фуры. Заезжаем на причал – это очень большая парковочная площадь. Там грузовики, автобусы, мотоциклы и легковые авто. И пока мы ждем, народ все пребывает и пребывает. Поражаемся размахам плавучей махины, которой предстоит все это перевести на другой берег. Наконец-то, освещая площадь мощными прожекторами, паром причалил и стал жутко громыхать, распахивая ворота. Толпа пассажиров с сумками повалила пешком, мы с Кариной за ними. Итальянские люди в форме регулировали движение жестами полосатых палок и свистками. С целью не потеряться на пяти палубах, найти свою каюту и найти друг друга в этом грохочущем плавучем доме, мы еще дома предусмотрели способ связи – рации. Но поток людей уносил нас с Кариной куда-то вверх по лестнице, а паром производил гул такой силы, что мы с трудом слышали друг друга. Страх сковывал движения, но я продолжала снимать наши поиски каюты в лабиринте коридоров и палуб. Потом мы вышли в освещенный зал с регистрационной стойкой по центру. Мужчина за столом мне что-то говорил, я протянула билеты и получила ключ. Каюта нашлась быстро. Так же быстро нашелся Дима. Оказалось, что наша машина и наша каюта находятся на одной палубе.

В каюте, рассчитанной на четыре человека, мы были втроем. Она напоминала купе поезда, только с гораздо большими кроватями, с туалетом, душевой кабиной, зеркалами, белым постельным бельем, кучей розеток и комплектом спасательных принадлежностей. Первым делом я изучила план эвакуации на итальянском языке (!), проверила наличие всех жилетов, комплектность надувного плота с кругом и только потом легла в кровать. Бывалым путешественникам это может показаться смешным, но мне было очень страшно! Очень! Гул моторов не затихал ни на секунду, невозможно было понять – мы уже плывем или еще стоим? А когда радиоточка ожила и металлическим голосом начала что-то вещать сначала на греческом, а потом на итальянском, я не знала что мне делать 8-O  Может, пора надувать плот и выпрыгивать с тонущего корабля? Как узнать, что они говорят??? Я НИЧЕГО НЕ ПОНИМАЮ!!!

Паром все так же однообразно гудел, люди по коридорам не ходили, свет почти нигде не горел. Мои мирно спали, а я только сейчас осознала всю ответственность за это авантюрное путешествие. Мы — двое взрослых и вполне грамотных людей — не нашли времени выучить хоть какие-то слова на итальянском. Но едем в эту абсолютно незнакомую чужую страну на 14 дней, да еще везем с собой ребенка… Нет слов :roll:
Выспаться мне так и не удалось…

В нашей каюте не было иллюминатора, утро определилось звонком будильника. Муж показал смс-ку, что пришла от МТС ночью. Помню дословно: «Добро пожаловать в ИСЛАНДИЮ!» Подробная информация и координаты украинского посольства в Исландии, тарифы на связь и пр. Я допускаю, что при пересечении границ не исключены разнообразные глюки мобильной связи. Но это я сейчас улыбаюсь, а тогда фактически ощутила как это — когда шевелятся волосы и замирает сердце. Мы ринулись на палубу всматриваться в очертания береговой линии. После такой sms требовались подтверждения, что порт прибытия носит итальянскую символику….

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Утренний туман рассеялся, мы (Слава Богу!) причалили в порт Бриндизи. Паром все также дико гудит, но за ночь я к этому звуку привыкла, да и утром при солнечном свете он не кажется таким зловещим. На берегу много полиции. Автотранспорт в определенном порядке покидает паром. Сначала освобождаются нижние палубы, а мы просто ждем, и только через час опускают съезд для пятой, нашей.

Уже на земле фотаем паром во всю длину. Carrabinere делают знак отъехать в сторону, делать снимаки там и не мешать движению. Все авто выстраиваются в длинную очередь, согласно дорожным указателям. Медленно ползем и прикидываем, что нас ждет впереди. Мы в Италии, может, документы будут проверять? Придумываем, что ответить на вопрос о шенгенской визе, открытой в Греции. «Случайно заехали», «захотелось посмотреть», «всего одним глазом, завтра назад» — не прокатит. Мы прибыли на пароме! НА ПАРОМЕ. В Италию.

Впереди появляются люди в форме, просят опустить стекла, что-то говорят водителям. Мы все это наблюдаем из машины и начинаем нервничать. Словарный запас итальянского за ночь не пополнился, вразумительно объясниться не получится. На наше счастье, взглянув на номера, полицай махнул полосатой палкой, и мы выехали из порта без единого вопроса.

Бонжорно, Италия!

 

Также по теме: Монастыри Метеора   Первый день в Италии

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148 thoughts on “Паром из Греции в Италию

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