Монастыри Метеора

Комплекс монастырей под общим названием Метеора считается одним из современных чудес света. Когда-то он был местом прибежища сотен православных монахов, теперь же превратился в популярный туристический маршрут.

Метеоры – это христианские монастыри, построенные на гигантских обрывистых скалах и величественно устремленные в небо, как подарок монахам, стремящимся приблизиться к Богу.

Но как отшельникам удалось возвести сооружения на такой высоте – до сих пор остается загадкой. Поговаривают, для того, чтобы только поднять на скалу камни для строительства одного монастыря  уходило двадцать лет.

Метеоры — это единственная  достопримечательность, ради которой мы в Греции. Нет, не так: Метеоры — это единственная точка на греческой карте, которая осталась от нашего первоначального маршрута. Побывать в Греции и не увидеть это чудо света, казалось нам преступлением. И вот,  23 мая — третий день путешествия и мы въезжаем в третью по счету страну.

Трасса  Сандански-Кулата привела нас на выезд из Болгарии. Заправились на Shell по карте Visa до полного бака. Приближаемся к КПП — огромная очередь из грузовиков! Все стоят, чего-то ждут. Причина крылась в отсутствии электричества. Некоторые легковые авто с болгарскими номерами и водителей с пластиковыми паспортами (кому не нужна отметка) пропускали, остальным было велено ждать, когда заработают компьютеры. В результате, простояли полтора часа. Здесь уже лето, а не весна (+35 в тени). За доставленные неудобства перед нами извинились, и мы вновь почувствовали себя иностранными туристами 8-)

В Греции с включенными фарами не ездят. Конечная цель пути на сегодня – деревня Калампака, что у подножия Метеор. В Греции есть дороги платные, есть бесплатные. Виньетку покупать не надо. Впереди – шлагбаум и будка с мужиком. Наугад протягиваем 10 евро, оперативно выдает сдачу и чек. Я щелкаю процесс обмена, грек возмущается и грозит мне: «no foto!» Убираю фотоаппарат, извиняюсь. Подумаешь, знаменитость 8-O За 167 км пути заплатили 1,20 евро. Следующий автобан оказался чуть дороже = 2,40 евро, в чеке обозначен как «категория 2». Это еще по-божески. Впереди нас ждет Италия – страна с отличными дорогами, недешевым бензином и дорогущими автобанами.

История

60 миллионов лет назад эта часть Греции была дном Мирового океана. Потом вода стала уходить, постепенно вымывая песок и другие отложения из более твердых пород и, в конечном счете, над цветущей Фессалийской долиной остались стоять несколько десятков гигантских каменных «пальцев» от 300 до 500 метров высотой.

Когда в XIII веке начались нашествия в Грецию крестоносцев и завоевателей с соседних государств, отвесные скалы Метеоры стали надежной защитой монахам. В 1334 году монах Афанасий (Метеорский) на скале высотой 613 метров основал монастырь «Преображения Господня» или «Великий Метеор», ставший главным и самым знаменитым строением комплекса. Скалу, ставшую ему родным домом, он назвал Метеора, то есть «парящая в воздухе». Вскоре так стала называться вся местность.

К XVI веку в Метеорах насчитывалось уже больше двадцати монастырей. Но спустя столетие монашеское движение начало приходить в упадок, и на сегодняшний день сохранилось всего четыре действующих мужских монастыря: «Преображения» (Великий Метеор), «Варлаама», «Святого Николая Анапавсаса», «Святой Троицы» и два женских: «Русану» (святой Варвары), «Святого Стефана». Другие либо превратились в руины, либо полностью исчезли.

Индивидуальное посещение

Найти полезную информацию в Интернете для самостоятельного путешествия (без экскурсионной группы и гида) довольно сложно. Есть описание, график для посещения туристами каждого из монастырей, стоимость входных билетов и, пожалуй, все. Зато местные жители вам расскажут мельчайшие подробности, а в отеле выдадут карту и объяснят на доступном английском как проехать. И не важно, в каком поселке рядом с Метеорами вы остановились – Каламбаке или Кастраки – каждый хозяин отеля заинтересован в том, чтобы его клиент остался доволен, поэтому снабдит вас всей необходимой информацией. Дорога от поселков вверх всего одна, а к каждому монастырю ведет хорошая асфальтированная дорога и каменные ступеньки, что делает каждый их них доступным для посещения людьми разного возраста.

Мы остановились в милом отеле San Giorgio Villa с общей кухней, парковкой среди клумбы и радушными хозяевами. Нам предложили карту местности и расписание работы монастырей, что оказалось очень полезным. В этом отеле произошел забавный случай. Сначала я не могла познакомиться с греческой микроволновкой, потом понять КАК на этой кухне работает кран с водой и где он включается. Пришлось звать хозяев и на скудненьком словарном запасе английского объяснять свою проблему. Оказалось всё простым до безобразия. Было стыдно, извинялись 8-)

Обеденная зона удивила размахом. Казалось, она собрала все достижения электронной кухонной техники. Полный набор посуды, куча специй и чай-кофе-сахар, большой стол, белая скатерть, высокие стулья. Ужинали красиво. Потом сидели на балконе ,смотрели на полную луну, высоченные гладкие скалы и представляли себе: как это жить там, наверху, почти в облаках?

Приятный момент: при выселении из отеля Карине подарили мягкую игрушку – Винни-Пуха, он присоединился к Чебурашке (я не беру во внимание табун игрушечных пони), который начал путешествие с Энергодара. Приятно, черт побери! Сложили сумку с бутерами, заготовили термос с кофе и выехали к Метеорам.

Наши халявные путешественники :-P :

Советую даже не пытаться посетить все монастыри за один день. А если у вас в распоряжении всего один день на Метеоры, выберете максимум два монастыря, этого будет достаточно, чтобы побродить по внутренним дворикам, ознакомиться с бытом древних монахов, представленных в экспозициях, посетить комнаты-музеи и лавки с сувенирами. Купить браслеты, иконки, крестики «хэнд мэйд». Замереть, глядя вниз и полюбоваться видом раскинувшейся внизу равнины, пропитаться духом отважных людей, рискнувших построить на отвесных скалах такие сооружения. Сделать памятные снимки, навсегда поселив Метеоры в своем сердце.

0209-1

Не важно, какие именно монастыри для посещения вберете вы, к другим можно подъехать на машине и полюбоваться иной архитектурой и открывшимся пейзажем.

Краткое описание. Рекомендуемые для посещения монастыри.

Монастырь-музей «Святого Стефана» (XIV в) — самый богатый в комплексе, расположенный на особенно красивой скале, возвышающейся над городом Каламбака. Крутое ущелье отделяет вершину от основной горы. Единственный доступный вход – подвесной мост длиной 8 метров. Здесь обучают иконографии и открыта экспозиция монастырских реликвий.

Монастырь «Великий Метеор» — крупнейший и самый высокий из монастырей Метеоры. Раньше для входа использовалась плетеная лестница. В 1922 году в скале прорубили 115 крутых ступеней, но для подъема провизии до сих пор используется сеть-мешок, поднимающийся на лебёдке с помощью нехитрого механизма, рассчитанного на силу лишь 2-х человек.

Монастырь Святой Троицы — самый аскетичный и труднодоступный из всех. Одинокий столп, окружённый хороводом каменных исполинов, разделяет бездна с соседними скалами. Строительство скита, согласно летописям заняло 18 лет, а подъём материалов для строительства целых 70! От подъездного «кармана» на дороге до входа в монастырь тянется трос со старой и страшной на вид кабинкой. Нечто, напоминающее фуникулер, служит единственной переправой к этому монастырю. Ни одна фотография не сможет передать ощущение, которое испытываешь стоя на краю утёса с видом на монастырь Святой Троицы.

Не забывайте, что монастыри действующие, поэтому существуют некоторые ограничения. Например, не пускают мужчин в шортах выше колен и женщин в брюках и коротких юбках. Впрочем, если даже вы забудете об этом, на входе в монастырь всем выдадут длинные юбки и косынки.

Фантастический пейзаж Фессалии — одно из самых захватывающих мест мира. А монастыри Метеоры наиболее яркая достопримечательность Греции. Не сомневаюсь, что это о них придумали поговорку: «лучше одни раз увидеть, чем сто раз услышать».

Для справки:

Все сооружения комплекса открыты для посещения с 9:00 до 13:00 и с 15:00 до 17:00 ежедневно летом, зимой монастыри закрыты в некоторые будние дни.

Стоимость входного билета: 3 евро (с 2013г.)

Дети до 10 лет посещают монастыри бесплатно.

Сувениры, магниты, открытки и пр. – дешевле купить в уличном лотке возле входа, чем в сувенирной лавке внутри монастыря.

Также по теме: Паром из Греции в Италию

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