Ночной Батуми

Батуми — важнейший город-порт в южной части страны с населением в 155 тыс.чел. Это последняя точка нашего путешествия. Красивая, поющая фонтанами, разноцветная приморская «точка».

После посещения Батуми уезжать из Грузии не хочется вовсе. Но, все по порядку.

Почти 300 лет городом владели османы, называя его то Батум то Батоми. Еще философ Аристотель описывал его в своих заметках, называя Батусом. Как только не склоняли название грузинского мегаполиса, пока в 1936 г он не  был переименован в Батуми.

Город искрится и сверкает, похож на добротный европейский курорт. Велосипедные дорожки, пешеходные зоны, парковые аллеи, множество гуляющих туристов. Стройки есть, но пейзаж не портят. Музыка, яркие огни — все какое-то праздничное.

Впечатляют бильярдные и теннисные столы в парковой зоне. Народ играет в шахматы, нарды, тот же теннис и бильярд. Нет праздно и криво шатающихся личностей. Мосты, смотровые площадки, поющие коллективы, окруженные толпой зевак. Нет лотков с безделушками и мигающими игрушками, которые портят колорит Набережной. Народ отдыхает, передвигается неспешно, хмурых лиц нет. Кафешки у кромки моря в турецком стиле с топчанами и подушками соседствуют с заведениями общепита американского происхождения. Поющие фонтаны круче, чем в Тбилиси.

Общаемся с дедулей, готовым рассказать всю историю страны в подробностях и собственную биографию в деталях. Он курит трубку и говорит просветительским тоном. Минут десять уделяем почтенному старцу и узнаем, что все в этом городе принадлежит кому угодно: арабским компаниям, турецким бизнесменам – кому угодно, но не грузинам. Местные жители работают как подсобные рабочие. Надо же, а так с виду и не скажешь :-|

Мне понравился Батуми – красивый, без признаков бедности. Родной город Валерия Меладзе. Он здесь и на рекламных афишах, и на больших щитах у дороги.

Что мы знаем о Батуми? После прихода к власти в Грузии Михаила Саакашвили, город начал активно застраиваться и развиваться, начинают появляться небоскрёбы. В 2010 году закончилось строительство отеля Sheraton, в 2011 г открылся отель Radisson. Строятся отели Hilton, Hyatt, Kempinsky, Mandarin oriental и другие. Все эти здания находятся в районе Бульвара (набережной) и являются туристическим центром.

Самое высокое здание в Грузии — корпус Батумского технологического университета, который имеет высоту в 200 м, тоже находится на набережной. Рядом с ним так называемая Алфавитная башня, которая является концептуальным проектом и построена под личным надзором господина Саакашивили. Как любой статусный небоскреб, на самом верху башни работает ресторан, вечерний вид из которого поражает воображение. Все умопомрачительные фото в сети сделаны оттуда.

Прощаемся с грустным грузином, идем в сторону автобуса. Огни заканчиваются вместе с тротуарной плиткой. Дальше – грунтовая дорога и необустроенная часть Набережной. По объемам отведенной земли под застройку, котлованам под фонтаны (вместо которых пока лишь лужи с квакающими лягушками), прикидываем каким будет этот город года через два-три.

Самые дешевые авиабилеты из Москвы в Батуми на год вперед

Дата вылета Дата возвращения Пересадки Авиакомпания Найти билет

23.11.2018

07.12.2018

Прямой

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14.12.2018

17.12.2018

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11.01.2019

18.01.2019

Прямой

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01.02.2019

08.02.2019

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01.03.2019

15.03.2019

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27.04.2019

08.05.2019

1 пересадка

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04.05.2019

12.05.2019

1 пересадка

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06.06.2019

15.06.2019

1 пересадка

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13.07.2019

27.07.2019

1 пересадка

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05.08.2019

20.08.2019

1 пересадка

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02.09.2019

11.09.2019

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04.10.2019

16.10.2019

1 пересадка

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Движущиеся статуи мужчины и женщины завораживают. Стоим у воды и смотрим как они съезжаются и разъезжаются, придумываем собственную красивую легенду этому памятнику, собираем камни. Не знаю зачем. Камни абсолютно такие же, как в Крыму. Один в один. Та же крупная галька. Но, то ли под воздействием чар этого города, то ли в венах решило забродить вино, камни странным образом перемещаются в рюкзак. И в последствии оказываются на моем рабочем столе ;-)

Если кого-то интересуют исторические хроники города, о которых я обычно не пишу в своих заметках, могу порекомендовать отличный сайт господина Маргиева. У него там все подробно описано. Я веду рассказ от лица обычного туриста, у которого на осмотр города полдня в запасе.

Ночевать в Батуми не стали, нашей многочисленной группировке даже обычные хостелы здесь не по карману.

Последнее утро в Грузии началось с утренней гимнастики.  Представьте себе: около тридцати человек разного калибра выстроились возле дороги и синхронно машут руками и ногами :lol:

Нам сигналили проезжающие мимо автомобили!

Дорога длиной в 36 часов тушит любой оптимистический запал. Пытаемся спать, читать, есть лобиане, хотя изделия из теста одним своим видом уже вызывают тоску по украинскому борщу с мясными ребрышками. Остановки плановые: на перевале скупаем у местной бабульки все запасы чурчхелы (самые вкусные – с грецким орехом), делаем месячную выручку целым автобусом. Нас провожают восторженно, как артистов :-P

Приближаясь к границе, погода меняется. Дождь в лобовое стекло, порывы ветра.
«Грузия плачет за нами», — шутим мы и репетируем хоровое дружеское приветствие.

— Верми карт, Сакартвела!
Кричим в 36 голосов зашедшему в автобус таможеннику. Фокус срабатывает, он улыбается, собирает паспорта и самостоятельно уносит их для проштамповки. Возвращаемся домой.

Долго раздумывала как закончить это путешествие в Грузию, этот большой автобусный тур. Решила показать вам Батуми-2015, снятый моим другом Матвеем Мосягиным, профессиональным видеооператором. Все-таки Батуми был последним городом в нашей поездке. И он заслуживает особенного внимания!

По теме Грузия:   Грузия на автобусе    Пешком по Тбилиси    Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси  

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