Пешком по Тбилиси

Изучать столицу Грузии пешком оказалось еще любопытнее, чем автобусом. Несмотря на моросящий дождь мы полны решимости гулять-гулять-гулять до глубокой ночи.

В условленном месте встречаемся с экскурсоводом Еленой (украинка, вышедшая замуж за грузина), гуляем по Тбилиси. Она знает историю каждого памятника, мостика, буквально каждого угла в этом городе. Заслушиваемся многочисленными легендами, поднимаемся вверх к церкви, отмечаем столичные контрасты: красивые кафешки и дети-попрошайки; охраняемый президентский дворец и убогие соседние дома с сетками от кровати на окнах. Если верить Елене, на презентацию своего поместья президент позвал в гости всех соседей.

Тбилиси  — город контрастов. Мы их замечали повсюду. Красивейший современный парк с поющим фонтаном и сверкающим мостом (его называют по-разному: Мост Любви, Мост Мира) и неосвещенные вонючие подземные переходы; изысканный театр Марионеток, улица ресторанов и горы строительного мусора. Вообще, такое ощущение, что строится не только Тбилиси, а вся страна.

Погода меняется раза три в течение дня. Народ очень дружелюбный и открытый. Молодежь плохо говорит по-русски, с людьми по-старше языкового барьера нет. Наша Елена рассказывает, что совершая покупку не важно в каком месте, нам обязаны выдать чек. На чеке есть два кода. Вводишь на телефоне *200# позвонить (бесплатный номер), приходит смс с полем для ввода длинного кода в левом нижнем углу. Отправляешь цифры. Новая смс требует верхний (короткий) код. Моментально можно выиграть от 20 до 2000 лари. Эта новая экономическая политика Грузии обязала, таким образом, каждого предпринимателя работать без «черной кассы».

Опять начинается дождь, прячемся в кафе-трамвайчик. Заказываем чай-кофе и нечто такое, такое… Ну, вкусненькое. Бармен впадает в ступор, но произносит: «Сэйчас прыдумаем».

Спрашиваем: «Сколько это будет стоить?»

Получаем чисто грузинский ответ: «Сэйчас прыдумаем!»

Гадаем на кофейной гуще,  фотаем огромный белый рояль в пахучих лавандовых кустах, едим сырные лаваши (3 лари за 1 шт. – столичные цены!), пугаем менеджера ресторана численностью группы, желающей перекусить в его заведении. Отмечаем, что минеральная вода Nabeghlavi лучше, чем Borjomi. На ужин опять пьем сухое вино.

После ужина в национальных тонах идем на прогулку. Мы в Грузии, сидеть в номере запрещается! Фуникулер над ночным Тбилиси открывает красоту города с другой стороны.  Серные бани с температурой воды в 45˚С призваны смыть дневную усталость и подарить телу бодрость и легкость. Их основа – теплые серно-щелочные источники, вытекающие из-под горы Табор. Бани – это отдельная достопримечательность Тбилиси, которые находятся в старой части города на правом берегу р. Куры. Многие знаменитые люди оставили описания Тифлисских бань: Александр Дюма, А.С. Пушкин и другие. Плескался в свое время там и наш бывший президент Ющенко.

Тбилиси заслуживает восхищения хотя бы по тому историческому факту, что за всю историю разрушений город 40 раз отстраивали заново.

По теме Грузия:  Грузия на автобусе   Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми


 

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