Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии

Мцхета — очень древний город, самая первая столица Грузии. Мы направляемся в самое сердце грузинской цивилизации.

Поселение на месте Мцхеты появилось в далёкой древности. Возможно, еще в бронзовом веке. Высокий скалистый мыс на слиянии двух рек был настолько удобен во всех смыслах, что его не могли не заметить.

Мцхета — очень древний городок, первая столица Грузии, в которой христианство было провозглашено государственной религией Грузии в 337 году.

Едем автобусом, слушаем нашего гида, проникаемся историей, делаем пометки в блокноте. Елена учит нас песне «Если едешь ты в Тбилиси – вай, вай, вай…» и эта первая строчка становится нашим девизом в течение всего путешествия.

Если следовать грузинскому фольклору, город Мцхета (Mtzkheta) был основан царем Мцехотосом, который был сыном Картли, первого царя. Именно от Картли, судя по легендам, пошли все грузины. Первые упоминания о городе Мцхета приходятся на первую половину I века до н.э. В те времена на территории древней Грузии появилось первое государственное объединение- Иверия- столицей которого стал город Мцхета. Будучи крупным и важным в те времена городом, Мцхета постоянно подвергался набегам и постоянно переходил то в руки римлян, но персов, то греков, то других народов.

В 65 году до нашей эры сюда пришёл с римской армией полководец Помпей. Он занял Мцхету и Армази и построил мост через Куру. Этот мост простоял потом очень долго перестраивался несколько раз и дожил до ХХ века.

В IV веке здесь жила Святая Нина и здесь происходили все события, связаные с Крещением Грузии. В VI веке столица постепенно переехала в Тбилиси, но Мцхета осталась важным транзитным торговым городом, через нее шли караванные пути на север, через горы в Аланию. В 736 году Мцхета была разрушена арабской армией полководца Мервана, будущего халифа. После разрушения она надолго утратила городской статус, превратившись в деревню. До совсем недавних пор Мцхета не носил титула города и только в 1956 году этот населенный пункт окрестили как город.

В советское время город изменился до неузнаваемости. Галечную пойму реки Арагви засыпали и там образовался огромный луг. В 1930-е годы завершилось строительство Земо-Авчальской ГЭС, которая подняла уровень Куры и Арагви на несколько метров. Под водой исчезли мцхетские скалы и мост Помпея. Город на скалах превратился в город на низком берегу озера. Город превратился в райцентр и областной центр и население его возросло до 8 тысяч человек.

Сейчас это один из самых популярных туристических объектов в Грузии и государство сюда кое-что инвестирует. В 2010 году вовсю шли работы по улучшению города: мостили дороги, причесывали фасады, что-то переделывали. Теперь здесь есть и инфоцентр, и сувениры, и музей, и уютная атмосфера, что вообще-то самое главное.

Городу больше 2000 лет. Ходим, впечатляемся.

Взбираемся к Армазской крепости, монастырю Самтавро (სამთავრო) — второй крупный храм Мцхеты. На этом месте находился куст ежевики, под которым жила Святая Нина.

Координаты: 41°50’47″N   44°43’5″E 

Проникаемся легендами кафедрального собора Светицховели (там зарыт хитон Господа), ставим свечи, приобретаем крестики, фотографируем.

Светицховели — первый и главный храм в Грузии, название которого традиционно переводят как «животворящий столб». Считается, что в этом месте была зарыт в землю хитон Иисуса Христа, и впоследствии тут вырос кедр, который стал священным деревом для местных жителей. В IV веке рядом стоял царский дворец, а кедр рос в саду этого дворца. Когда Святая Нина пришла в Грузию, она 9 месяцев прожила в доме садовника возле этого сада. В последствии кедр срубили, сделали из него столб, но установить его на место руками не смогли. Чуть позже он установился сам, неким чудесным образом. В Светицховели долгое время короновали и хоронили царей.

Координаты: 41°50’32″N   44°43’15″E 

Посещаем самый древний в стране монастырский храм Джвари (6 век)

Церковь Джвари была построена царём Восточной Грузии над святым крестом.  Сначала был построен небольшой монастырь, но потом был возведён большой и красивый храм. Он построен совсем недалеко от края скалы. Из-за этого здание видно со всех сторон и с далекого расстояния. Храм как бы продолжает ту гору, на которой стоит. Сейчас храм Джвари постепенно реконструируется местными священниками на пожертвования жителей и государства.

Эти памятники культуры региона находятся под охраной ЮНЕСКО и относятся к всемирному наследию.

По теме Грузия: Грузия на автобусе    Пешком по Тбилиси    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми

313 thoughts on “Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии

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