Военно-Грузинская дорога

Путь до Тбилиси – самый сложный участок маршрута. Слева — скала, справа – обрыв. Мы едем из Казбеги с столицу. На автобусе

Крым и Карпаты отдыхают. Альпы тоже. Таких красивых и суровых пейзажей вы там не найдете. Здесь и узкие ущелья, и бурные реки, и горный серпантин, и водопады,  и головокружительные пейзажи.  Формально, Военно-грузинская начинается от Владикавказа и заканчивается в Тбилиси. Длина – 208 км.

Дорога пугает своим аварийным состоянием: ямы, обвалы, узкая колея ровно на одну машину, тоннели не освещены, а многие в разбитом состоянии и не используются. Автобус ползет медленно, не более 15 км/ч. Пассажиры притихли, фотографируют пейзажи за окном. Грузия — это бесконечный сплошной серпантин.

Крестовый перевал 2398 км. На улице так холодно, что все задаются вопросом: «Что здесь тогда происходит зимой?» Приборная доска демонстрирует +8˚С, мы закутались в спальники и лишний раз без надобности не покидаем теплый автобус.

Остановка возле арки «Дружбы народов». Арка Дружбы народов России и Грузии со смотровой площадкой была возведена в 1983 году, к двухсотой годовщине Георгиевского трактата о присоединении Грузии к России. Изумительный памятник советской эпохе, иллюстрирующий всю историю Грузии на огромном мозаичном панно.

Смотровая площадка не для слабонервных, один край висит в воздухе. И ветер-ветер-ветер…

Рядом с нами фотографируются немецкие велосипедисты. Велосипед? В горах? В плюс восемь? Этот вид транспорта и их одежды кажутся нам сплошным безумием!

Крепость-церковь Ананури.

Что за странная страна Грузия? Два часа назад было +8˚С, сейчас палит солнце и, наверное, все +30˚С

анануриАнанури — крупный, хорошо сохранившийся замок на берегу Жинвальского водохранилища. Он стоит прямо на Военно-Грузинской дороге, это примерно в 70 километрах от Тбилиси. Главным достоинством замка является его сохранность, все стены и башни, даже перекрытия кое-где остались на своем месте.

Основной функцией замка было перекрывать долину реки в узком месте.

С XVI века долиной реки Арагви, где ныне проходит Военно-Грузинская дорога, управлял княжеский род Эристави. Главная дорога на север из их резиденции в Душети вела через узкое ущелье у слияния рек Арагви и Ведзатхеви (Жинвальское водохранилище было создано в XX веке). В таком удачном месте эриставы построили смотровую башню, а позже форпост, охранявший единственный путь к Дарьяльскому ущелью.

В XVII-XVIII веках эриставы активно вели не только войны с соседними княжествами, но и внутреннюю междоусобную борьбу за власть. Согласно преданию, особенно враждовали два крупных феодала — арагвский и ксанский. Когда ксанский правитель отсутствовал в связи с поездкой в Россию, семью его брата схватили арагвские воины. После возвращения из России ксанский правитель решил отомстить за брата и осадил Ананури, где укрывались обидчики. Осада длилась долго, гарнизон крепости упорно защищался, столько арагвцев было убито, что наступающие использовали их трупы как щиты при стрельбе.

Но штурмом взять крепость так и не удалось. Тогда захватчики разрушили подземный водопровод крепости, вынудив защитников пойти на переговоры. Ксанский правитель обещал всем пощаду, и изможденные защитники, в конце концов, сдались на милость победителя. Только сын арагвского эристава не поверил обещаниям и укрылся в башне Шеуповари. Победители нарушили клятву. Они ворвались в крепость, опустошили монастырь, разорили церкви и разбили иконы. Всех пленников убили, а вход в башню, где заперся арагвский сын, замуровали и подожгли.

От огромного комплекса до наших дней сохранились каменные крепостные стены с главной четырехугольной и несколькими круглыми башнями, два купольных храма, колокольня и другие постройки.

Сегодня в этом месте построено огромное Жинвальское водохранилище, которое доставляет воду в Тбилиси. Протяженность этого водохранилища около десяти километров и с крепости открывается великолепный вид на бескрайнюю водную гладь в окружении гор.

 

По теме Грузия: Грузия на автобусе    Пешком по Тбилиси    Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми

186 thoughts on “Военно-Грузинская дорога

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  92. This is having a little bit much more subjective, however I substantially favor the Zune Current market. The interface is colorful, has additional aptitude, and some neat characteristics including ‘Mixview’ that allow for your self suddenly perspective similar albums, songs, or other consumers identical toward what you’re listening to. Clicking upon 1 of those will centre on that product or service, and yet another set of «neighbors» will occur into see, allowing oneself toward navigate in excess of investigating through identical artists, tunes, or end users. Speaking of end users, the Zune «Social» is furthermore outstanding exciting, allowing for by yourself locate other individuals with shared tastes and turning out to be close friends with them. Your self then can pay attention in direction of a playlist manufactured based upon an amalgamation of what all your pals are listening to, which is moreover fascinating. Individuals apprehensive with privacy will be relieved toward comprehend your self can stay away from the community in opposition to looking at your personal listening habits if you thus just take.

  93. Hands down, Apple’s application keep wins as a result of a mile. It really is a huge final decision of all varieties of programs vs a fairly unsatisfied range of a handful for Zune. Microsoft includes applications, especially within just the realm of online games, nonetheless I am not positive I might will need towards bet upon the upcoming if this component is vital in the direction of oneself. The iPod is a substantially improved option in that scenario.

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  95. This is getting to be a little bit added subjective, but I a lot like the Zune Market. The interface is colourful, incorporates even more aptitude, and some amazing characteristics which includes ‘Mixview’ that enable oneself quickly look at similar albums, new music, or other end users identical to what you might be listening to. Clicking upon just one of people will heart on that product, and an additional fastened of «neighbors» will come into viewpoint, permitting your self in direction of navigate in excess of investigating via identical artists, tunes, or customers. Talking of consumers, the Zune «Social» is too superior enjoyment, making it possible for yourself find some others with shared tastes and getting to be pals with them. On your own then can pay attention toward a playlist produced based upon an amalgamation of what all your pals are listening to, which is additionally remarkable. People fearful with privacy will be relieved to comprehend your self can avoid the public in opposition to looking at your particular person listening routines if oneself as a result pick out.

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  97. Fingers down, Apple’s app shop wins via a mile. It really is a enormous amount of all forms of apps vs a pretty not happy choice of a handful for Zune. Microsoft consists of Strategies, specifically within the realm of online games, nevertheless I am not positive I might require in direction of bet upon the upcoming if this aspect is sizeable in direction of your self. The iPod is a a great deal far better preference in just that circumstance.

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  99. Zune and iPod: Greatest folks examine the Zune to the Contact, however the moment looking at how thin and incredibly very little and mild it is, I acquire it in direction of be a as an alternative exceptional hybrid that brings together qualities of equally the Contact and the Nano. It can be rather colorful and gorgeous OLED display screen is somewhat smaller than the touch screen, yet the participant alone feels Incredibly a bit smaller sized and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as substantially, and is considerably more compact within width and top, When getting just a hair thicker.

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  103. Involving me and my husband we have owned even further MP3 gamers in excess of the several years than I can rely, such as Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etcetera. But, the remaining number of years I’ve fixed down toward a person line of players. Why? Because I was pleased in the direction of uncover how well-designed and enjoyment toward employ the service of the underappreciated (and extensively mocked) Zunes are.

  104. Zune and iPod: Most Those people review the Zune to the Contact, nevertheless following looking at how slim and remarkably low and light it is, I try out it to be a rather one of a kind hybrid that brings together qualities of the two the Touch and the Nano. It’s Quite colourful and gorgeous OLED show is slightly scaled-down than the contact screen, still the player alone feels Extremely a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs relating to 2/3 as much, and is drastically lesser in width and height, although becoming basically a hair thicker.

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  116. Arms down, Apple’s application retail store wins by means of a mile. It truly is a huge quantity of all sorts of applications vs a pretty not happy decision of a handful for Zune. Microsoft includes Designs, primarily in just the realm of online games, but I am not certainly I might need to have in direction of bet on the foreseeable future if this part is sizeable in the direction of yourself. The iPod is a considerably superior final decision in just that scenario.

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  118. I will equipment this evaluate towards Two designs of individuals: existing Zune homeowners who are considering an up grade, and Those people hoping towards choose in between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other gamers worthy of thinking of out there, which includes the Sony Walkman X, however I count on this features yourself ample information in the direction of create an aware conclusion of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as properly.)

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  123. The clean Zune browser is incredibly Excellent, still not as constructive as the iPod’s. It functions perfectly, nonetheless isn’t really as instantaneous as Safari, and includes a clunkier interface. If on your own sometimes method upon utilizing the internet browser which is not an issue, but if you are building in the direction of examine the world wide web alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s bigger exhibit and better browser could possibly be major.

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  132. Zune and iPod: Highest All those look at the Zune in direction of the Touch, nevertheless just after watching how thin and amazingly very little and light-weight it is, I look at it towards be a instead unique hybrid that brings together features of both the Contact and the Nano. It truly is exceptionally vibrant and attractive OLED show is somewhat lesser than the touch screen, nevertheless the player by itself feels rather a little bit smaller and lighter. It weighs relating to 2/3 as substantially, and is noticeably more compact within just width and peak, even though staying basically a hair thicker.

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  135. Hands down, Apple’s app retailer wins via a mile. It truly is a significant final decision of all styles of applications vs a in its place unhappy quantity of a handful for Zune. Microsoft consists of Designs, primarily in the realm of game titles, but I am not certainly I might need to have toward bet on the potential if this part is necessary in the direction of on your own. The iPod is a considerably superior preference within just that circumstance.

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  161. Amongst me and my husband we have owned additional MP3 gamers earlier mentioned the many years than I can depend, like Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and many others. But, the last couple of a long time I have resolved down in the direction of a person line of players. Why? Due to the fact I was joyful in the direction of come across how well-designed and enjoyment to employ the service of the underappreciated (and broadly mocked) Zunes are.

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  165. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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  171. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  177. Apple already consists of Rhapsody as an app, which is a superb commence, yet it is by now hampered as a result of the incapacity to store domestically upon your iPod, and includes a dismal 64kbps little bit cost. If this alterations, then it will considerably negate this comfort for the Zune, nonetheless the Ten songs for each thirty day period will continue to be a substantial in addition in Zune Pass’ desire.

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  185. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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