Скальный город Уплисцихе

Недалеко от города Гори, на берегу горной реки Мтквари, раскинулась странная скала. Весь пологий склон изрезан рукотворными пещерами, называемые скальным городом Уплисцихе. Что в переводе с грузинского звучит как «крепость Бога».

«Крепость Бога» впервые упоминается в летописи II в. до н. э. Его история  удивительна  своей продолжительностью. Люди населяли его на протяжении неимоверно долгого периода — от поздней бронзы до раннего коммунизма. Город начали строить до н. э., а покинули немногим более ста лет назад. Как мы могли пропустить такую удивительную грузинскую достопримечательность? Наш автобус направился по маршруту Гори — Квахврели. Там нас ждал экскурсовод для прогулки в «крепость Бога».

Еще издалека этот причудливый скальный город завораживает своим необычным видом. Словно гигантские поры на скалах зияют пещерные гроты, внутри которых когда-то кипела жизнь. Неожиданный уголок мистической скалистой пустыни посреди оживлённой куринской долины. Здесь были когда-то огромные величественные залы, храмы, жилища, соединенные меж собой извилистыми улицами-коридорами. Трудно поверить, что эта грандиозная титаническая работа по созданию целого города из каменных пород – творение человеческих рук.

Экскурсовод – истинный грузин старшего возраста – делится секретами молодости: «Выпиваешь кружку вина в обед, и кружку вина вечером, вах-вах — сердце не болит».  И куча историй как доказательство. Еле поспеваем за старичком карабкаться вверх! Он успевает по пути что-то рассказывать и показывает как перебраться через горы и сбежать в Китай :-)   Пугает местными ядовитыми змеями, перечисляет экскурсии, которые водит за сутки по этим тропам (есть и украинцы, но мы численным количеством превосходим любую их них), рекламирует вино собственного производства  и толкает авторские экскурсионные брошюры «по приемлемым ценам».

Как мы узнали, 2 тонны вина каждый уважающий себя грузин делает для себя, остальное сдает на завод. Виноград вызревает на солнце без полива, ведь в году 340 солнечных дней.

— Две тонны, — удивляемся мы объемам.

Это еще что? — разводит руками он, — наши предки 15 тонн вина на семью заготавливали. Мы уже так не можем.
На наши восторженные реплики о его спортивной форме, дедулька отмахивается и сообщает: – Моей теще 90 лет и она выпивает 4 стакана вина в день. Видит Бог  проживет еще долго :-) 

Всего в городе насчитывается более 150 пещер, но в былые времена их было 700. Если смотреть на город издалека, то Уплисцихе очень похож на большой муравейник.

Напластования культур заметны здесь невооруженным взглядом. По соседству с языческими жертвенниками и более скромными жилыми пещерками располагаются христианские храмы со сводчатыми потолками и резными колоннами, а отдельно стоящая, непещерная церковь XI века вообще кажется инородным телом.

В пещерном городе сохранился выдающийся двухколонный зал приемов царицы Тамары, с арочными нишами и огромными столбами.  Целыми остались некоторые жилые помещения, винохранилища, части храмов и крепостных стен, потайной подземный туннель, посредством которого Уплисцихе снабжался водой.

Уплисцихе был культовым храмовым городом, крупным языческим центром до принятия Грузией христианства (IV в.). Здесь проходили всевозможные языческие ритуалы, совершались жертвоприношения. Затем здесь стали строить христианские церкви. В XIII веке в результате опустошительного нашествия орд Чингисхана на Грузию, Уплисцихе окончательно пал.

В XIX веке Уплисцихе полностью покрылся слоем земли и песка. Понадобились большой труд и чрезвычайные усилия многих специалистов по раскопке, расчистке, укреплению, реставрации и изучению этого выдающегося памятника в истории грузинской культуры, занесённого в Список Всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО.

Спускаемся вниз и покупаем у дедульки разрекламированное вино, сделанное из пяти видов винограда (8 лари за 1 литр – дорого, но вкусно!). Рядом с пещерным городом разбиваем лагерь. Есть родник с питьевой водой, цивилизованный «М-Ж», столы с лавками. Готовим ужин, пьем вино, накрываем столы, отгоняем от палаток пасущихся рядом лошадей. С наступление темноты разбредаемся по палаткам. Снятся бесконечные лабиринты пещер, каменная мощь древнейших сооружений, люди, обряды. Как хорошо, что мы побывали в этом удивительном месте.

Уплисцихе — скала, где Бог создал свою крепость.

По теме Грузия: Грузия на автобусе   Пешком по Тбилиси    Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми

162 thoughts on “Скальный город Уплисцихе

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