Мертвый город Каякёй

Во всех путеводителях он пишется по-разному. Назовем эту местность «Мёртвый город». Каякёй  — то ли город, то ли деревня. Ясно одно — здесь когда-то была жизнь. Какая же страшная сила заставила людей покинуть свои дома и бросить поселение на склоне горы с удачным выходом к морю?

1291 - копияМертвая деревня, город-призрак – малопривлекательные названия для туристического объекта. Тем не менее, толпы туристов ежегодно прибывают сюда, оставляя деньги местному населению за сувениры, бижутерию, магниты и всякую ненужную дребедень. Здесь даже верблюды сдаются в прокат. В горах! Я поддалась искушению и среди побрякушек купила себе вот такие чудесные серьги.

серьги

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Мы жили в Фетхие в  Alis hotel , а  Каякёй располагался в 8 км от нас. Город уютно раскинулся в долине, окруженной горами. С обратной стороны горы мы видели уютную бухту. Можно предположить, что жители этого города имели морское сообщение, занимались торговлей, купались в море и вообще, наверное, жили неплохо. Так что же случилось с городом, ставшим призраком?

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Несколько сотен домов без окон, дверей и крыш. Камни, колючие кустарники, ящерицы.  Мы ходили по улицам брошенного города, пытаясь представить себе, что здесь было раньше. В путеводителях сказано, что в Каякёй когда-то кипела жизнь. Здесь были школы, аптеки, таверны, 2 церкви и 14 часовен. На фоне отсутствия какой-либо жизни, город производит неизгладимое впечатление. Он находится на склоне холма. Греки покинули его в 1923 году, во время обмена населением между Турцией и Грецией.

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Самые древние исторические памятники в Каякёй – наследие ликийского города Каримлассос, на месте которого он и был основан в XI веке согласно одним источникам и в XIV – согласно другим. Сами греки называли свой город Левисси.

Город с населением около 6500 человек процветал до 1912 года. Здесь было всё: церкви, школы, аптеки и больницы, почта, мастерские и даже типография, в которой издавалась местная газета.

В этом городе и вообще во всей округе мирно и благополучно жили с древнейших времён греки и турки. Но после кровопролитной войны 20х годов XX века, сожжения греческого Измира с предварительной вырезкой местного населения, мирному сосуществованию греческой диаспоры и турецкого населения пришёл конец. Власти договорились о так называемом Обмене населением, и все жители Левисси вынуждены были собрать свои пожитки и уехать на историческую родину. Греки бросили всё, что не смогли взять с собой — дома, постройки, мебель, церкви, школы, монастыри. Из могил даже эксгумировали останки своих предков, но взять на новую родину смогли только черепа, а все остальные кости сложили в небольшом склепе-оссасуарии в одной из церквей. Пришедшем в их дома турецким переселенцам из Македонии, здешние места, которые они переименовали в Каякёй, не понравились и с тех пор целый заброшенный городок стоит без жизни, постепенно разрушаясь и ветшая. В итоге, с 1923 года заброшенный Каякёй превратился в город-призрак.

1345 - копия1348 - копияСейчас Каякей охраняется государством, и стал примером того, как можно создать туристическую достопримечательность почти из ничего.

Не так давно Ассоциацией турецких туристических агентств и Палатой архитекторов Турции был разработан проект реконструкции Каякёй. Согласно ему будут восстановлены жилые дома, часовня, школы, библиотека, больница, мастерские и некоторые другие сооружения. В церквях города после окончания работ планируется возобновить службы. В результате Каякёй станет символом мира и дружбы между Турцией и Грецией.

Посмотрим. Пока это только чернила на бумаге.

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Мы изобрели ритуал и по-своему развлекались в городе-призраке :-)

Над городком на холме находятся остатки монастыря Афкуле, куда можно подняться по крутой тропинке и посмотреть панораму всей заброшенной деревни Каякёй, а с другой стороны виднеется море, бухточки с яхтами, остров Гемилер и начинается треккинговая тропа к лагуне Олюдениза. Для любителей экстримальных пеших прогулок можно сходить по ней, но я не советую — хорошие виды открываются только в двух местах, а карабкаться по камням, рискуя заблудиться, обычному городскому туристу довольно сложно. Мы были на машине, поэтому вернулись к началу дороги, где есть хоть какая-то жизнь. Козы, верблюды, сувенирные лавки и столики в таверне.

Каякёй — это напоминание ныне живущим о том, что жизнь быстротечна. Что не нужно верить политикам и обещаниям властей. Каждый из них играет свою партию, а обычный народ с его человеческими жизнями — всего лишь пешка в большой игре.

 Также по теме:  Дешевый отель в Фетхие   Недорогие кафешки Фетхие     Шоппинг в Фетхие    экскурсия 12 островов  Ущелье Сакликент   Лагуна Олюдениз   Фетхие и окрестности

 

 

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