Ущелье Сакликент

Ущелье Сакликент на рекламных плакатах выглядит впечатляюще. Иногда его еще называют каньоном. В переводе с турецкого Сакликент – скрытый город. Это самый длинный каньон на территории Турции и второй по протяженности в Европе.

Что самое поразительное — о существовании каньона сами турки узнали недавно. Обнаружил его всего двадцать лет назад пастух, который искал свою заблудившуюся овцу. Именно разыскивая отбившееся от стада животное, пастух наткнулся на каньон, протяженность которого ни много ни мало 18 километров.  Это самый длинный каньон в Турции (!) и второй по продолжительности в Европе(!).

744Высокие скалы ущелья практически не пропускают солнце круглый год, и вода в каньоне достаточно холодная, даже в разгар лета. А мы приехали в октябре. Даже в  теплой Турции прохлада ущелья заставила одеть свитера и кофты.

Ущелье отмечено на карте.  Мы жили в Фетхие, в этом отеле. Добраться к ущелью можно на машине по трассе D400 (50 км пути), также из окрестных городов местные туристические компании организовывают экскурсии.

О Сакликенте много читали в отчетах. Расстояние всего ущелья условно разбито на 4 части. Первая – для всех туристов, с мостиками, лесенками и перилами. Вторая – для подготовленных, где каньон соединяется с рекой. Ее можно пройти самостоятельно, но в специальной обуви. Третья и четвертая – только с проводником. Это не просто брод с разным уровнем холодной воды, на пути встречаются огромные валуны, водопады, ямы и подводные камни. Для техники нужны рюкзаки и непромокаемые чехлы. Длина ущелья составляет 15—18 км, а глубина — около 300 м. Для сравнения: длина Большого каньона Крыма — 3,5 км, при той же глубине. Разница высот на входе и выходе = 700 м. Местами стены сходятся так близко, что свет едва проникает на дно. Водная стихия в ущелье особенная. Она капает сверху, хлюпает под ногами, устремляется потоками вперед.

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Особенной подготовки у нас не было. Ни в одежде, ни в обуви. Определились, что проходим только первую часть. Абсолютно безопасную, по оборудованным дорожкам. Да, как пенсионеры. Да, я согласна, что попав в это место, надо брать от него по максимуму. Но, имея неоднократный опыт рафтинга, я отношусь к воде уважительно. Знаю, что она может быть спокойной на поверхности, но иметь сумасшедшие подводные течения. Да и ледяная температура воды не очень способствуют приятному восприятию флоры и фауны, если честно. Весомым фактором выступила аппаратура — видеокамеры, фотоаппараты. Нужно было делать выбор: либо мы оставляем все это в машине и путешествуем в калошах с гидом все четыре отрезка пути, либо мы пока присматриваемся и делаем снимки/видео на память. Даст Бог, будем здесь еще раз и пройдем весь маршрут.

В октябре вода в ущелье не превышает 8 градусов в плюсе, желающих совершить путешествие в брод почти нет. Как нет и тех самых опытных проводников. Что ж, зачем пришли, то и получили. Первая часть пути нами пройдена. Могу сказать по своему опыту: даже если вы не имеете спецобуви и защитной одежды, пройдите хотя бы первый участок пути до конца. Скользкие камни и каблуки не сочетаются, конечно, но мне удалось повеселиться даже не смотря на такие серьезные промахи в одежде :-)

Попробуйте найти в этом сказочном месте свой кайф. Полюбуйтесь удивительной природой, вдохните влажный воздух, сфотографируйтесь на фоне водопада и пообещайте себе вернуться в ущелье еще раз.

Я очень хочу пройти его до конца. По настоящему.

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779Мостики кажутся шаткими на первый взгляд и ненадежными. Но потом привыкаешь к шуму воды, мокрому настилу и спокойно движешься вперед. Самый первый мост проходит над бурным потоком. Он соединяет ресторан с первым отрезком пути. Оборудован видеонаблюдением и предупреждающими плакатами.

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Шум воды очень силен, чтоб поговорить друг с другом, надо хорошенько перекрикиваться. Зато стихия красивая.

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Возвращаемся назад к оставленной на парковке машине. Попадаем в рай. Цветущие уличные оранжереи, дурманящий запах мяса на костре, водоплавающие птицы, корзины спелых южных фруктов, гамаки и мягкие матрацы. Нас просто притянул к себе один живописный ресторанчик под открытым небом. Заказываем рыбу-гриль по-турецки. В ожидании заказа любуемся окружающей природой.

811 Рыба-гриль по-турецки. Здесь надо чуть подробнее рассказать. В приготовлении этого блюда используется необычный для нас ингредиент – луковый сок, который составляет основу маринада. В таком соке турки любят мариновать не только рыбу, но и мясо. Промаринованная рыба жарится на решетке и при этом ее смазывают маслом и лимонным соком. Подают это блюдо с большим количеством зелени и обязательно горячим. Вкуснятина неимоверная!

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В 40 километрах от Фетхие находится аэропорт Даламан, принимающий поток туристов, которые хотят посетить данный курорт и ущелье Сакликент.
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