из Стамбула в Памуккале

Быть в Турции и не заехать в провинцию Денизли к белоснежным террасам с бирюзовой водой, было бы преступлением. Каждый год посмотреть на этот шедевр природы приезжает около двух миллионов человек. Мы — не исключение.

0545-1На самом деле, Памуккале — это деревня в провинции Денизли. У нее есть город-побратим в США — Лас-Вегас. Неожиданно, правда? Что может быть у них общего? Всемирная известность, количество туристов?

Памуккале — это турецкое чудо света. Вода, стекающая со склонов горы, образует систему причудливых водоёмов с известняковыми стенами.  Ослепительно белые террасы (травертиновые образования) возникли на склоне горы в результате отложения солей из насыщенных кальцием источников. О посещении этой горы подробно расскажу в другой заметке… Эта посвящена передвижению

Из Стамбула в Памуккале надо проехать около 660 км. Дорожное покрытие отличное, но надо учитывать горные серпантины на большей части пути. Поэтому, делайте запас по времени.

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Если вы путешествуете по воздуху, доберетесь буквально за пару часов. Из Стамбула до ближайшего к Памуккале аэропорта в Денизли самолёт долетает примерно за 1 час. Потом еще 1 час рейсовым автобусом или такси.

 

Из Стамбула мы выехали в пять утра. От нашего отеля в старой части города ехать по Стамбулу еще 80 км. В пробки попадать как-то не хотелось. Хватило того, как мы в Стамбул  въехали.  На улице моросит мелкий дождь, таксисты и много полицейских машин. Кстати, в Турции несколько видов полиции. Гражданская и военная (жандармерия), дорожная полиция (Trafik Polis), в больших городах имеются специальные команды быстрого реагирования, известные как Yunus Polis, еще есть туристическая полиция, в сферу компетенции которой входит весь спектр проблем, связанных с правонарушениями против иностранных граждан. Есть так называемая рыночная полиция (Zabita, Belediye Zabitasi), которая патрулирует рынки и базары. Всю эту огромную «армию» сил правопорядка дополняет армия настоящая — турецкая жандармерия (Jandarma). Вот их действительно много по всей стране. И на дорогах, и в городах, даже в маленьких деревушках на них натыкались. Также можно встретить и представителей военной полиции (Askeri Inzibat) с их характерными белыми шлемами с надписью AsIz. Этих мало. Но, самое главное – туристов никто из этой оравы просто так не трогает.

Едем по Стамбулу. Тетка в навигаторе еще спит, ориентируемся по знакам. Пару раз в темноте нужный поворот пропустили, но на мост через Босфор выскочили. Едем. И тут посередине моста тетка просыпается и орет на весь салон: «Поверните налево!» :-)

Тогда мы в навигаторе разочаровались окончательно и дальше доверяли только бумажным картам. А для следующей поездки приобрели нормальный навигатор Garmin. О выборе навигатора можно почитать здесь.

К слову сказать, просторы Интернета просто таки пестрят статьями о том, что проезд данного моста через Босфор в Азию оплачивается. Босфор делит Стамбул на европейскую и азиатскую части. Если едешь в Европу, проезд бесплатный. Мы ехали в Азию, оплатили. Было темно, дождливо и непонятно: встречные платят или нет.

В каком-то городишке блуканули слегка. Не на той развилке влево ушли. Закончился город, кроме нас на трассе никого. Не уверены, что едем в нужном направлении. Остановились, развернули карту по-полной, разбираемся. Вдруг на дороге показался джип. Дима вышел под дождик, тормознул. Внутри оказались два реальных деда, один рулит, второй чётки перебирает. Ни по-русски, ни по-английски. Переходим на язык жестов.

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На карте показали, куда нам надо. Делают знак: следуй за нами. Едем. Километров 30 вели. На поворотах они сбавляли скорость до 80 км/ч. С виду старенькие, но гоняли по серпантинам прилично:) Дошли до какой-то развилки, они тормозят у обочины. Вышли  деды из джипа на моросящий дождик, руку Диме пожали, раскланялись, сели в свою машину, развернулись, руками помахали, посигналили и укатили назад. Назад. Им не по дороге с нами было! Они просто нас провели до нужной развилки… И это при бензине-то в два евро за литр…  Осознание того, что в этой стране ты не пропадешь и тебе всегда окажут помощь накрепко поселилось в наших сердцах.

Погода в дороге не радовала. Добрались в 16.00. Поселились. Мы сегодня в отеле единственные посетители. Отелей в этом краю много. Даже не так: все жилье, что есть в Памуккале — это все отели. Выбрать достойный и доступный по цене, оказалось задачей непростой. Как всегда, через Booking.com по фильтрам (парковка, цена за ночь и т.д.) нашли двухкомнатный номер с полупансионом (завтрак + ужин). За 30 евро нас еще и покормят? Отлично! Выбор пал на Uyum hotel

0712071107130736Заселяли нас как особ королевской крови:) Разве что красной дорожки не было. Начало сезона, туристов еще нет. Все внимание досталось нам. Говорят на английском, несут наши чемоданы, предлагают чай-кофе с дороги. Спрашиваем: «когда ужин?» — Когда хотите, хоть сейчас, хоть в полночь. Заказали на 19.30. Приходим на ужин. На столе гора хлеба, три порционных салата и три большие тарелки общих блюд. Ну, думаем, нормально, с голоду не помрем. Съели по-быстрому салаты, попробовали что-то горячее на больших тарелках. Приносят супы. Съели. Приносят вторые блюда: картошка, мясо в соусе. Мы начали настораживаться. Подобный ужин у нас дома обошелся бы в 30 евро, но мы ж тут еще и живем. Поглядываем осторожно за спины, где дежурит персонал и мгновенно убирает опустевшую тарелку. Может, мы чего-то не так поняли и еда за денежку? Та нет,  мы ж меню не согласовывали. Второе не осилил никто. Что-то потом еще было принесено. Затем десерт и чай-кофе. Еле дошли до номера и увалились на кровать. Вечер пропал…

А еще в Uyum hotel есть крытый бассейн.  И хозяева любезно нам его предоставили. Круто поплескать в бассейне в апреле! Все включено:)

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Утром легко, но сытно позавтракали. Завтрак был более сдержан, чем вчерашний ужин:) Отправились на экскурсию. Об этом читайте в заметке

Вечером ужинали в ресторане отеля

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Так получилось по календарю, что светлый праздник Пасхи выпал именно на эти даты, когда мы гостили в Uyum hotel. Съездили в Денизли в супермаркет, купили яйца и пасочку (ее роль исполняло большое круглое шоколадное пироженко), а наклейки мы привезли с собой. И вот так праздновали Пасху в Турции

Для визита на белоснежные травертины и древний город Хераполис нам потребовалось два дня. Два дня мы жили в гостеприимном отеле Uyum hotel. А когда настало время уезжать, провожать нас вышел весь персонал отеля! Управляющий, директор, повара. Все обнимали и приглашали приехать к ним еще раз. Для полного погружения в мелодраму не хватало только слёз:)

Также по теме: Край белоснежных природных бассейнов  Древний город Хиераполис

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  226. This is starting to be a bit far more subjective, still I considerably prefer the Zune Market. The interface is colorful, includes a lot more flair, and some awesome options which includes ‘Mixview’ that permit your self quickly view related albums, tunes, or other customers similar to what you are listening in direction of. Clicking on one of those will heart on that merchandise, and a further fastened of «neighbors» will arrive into see, enabling you to navigate above looking into by means of similar artists, new music, or users. Conversing of people, the Zune «Social» is way too outstanding pleasurable, allowing yourself track down other people with shared choices and becoming friends with them. Yourself then can hear in the direction of a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your mates are listening in direction of, which is additionally enjoyable. People apprehensive with privateness will be relieved toward comprehend on your own can protect against the public from seeing your individual listening routines if yourself therefore just take.

  227. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  229. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  242. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  248. If you might be still upon the fence: seize your favourite earphones, brain down in the direction of a Least complicated Acquire and request in direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and watch which one particular appears superior to on your own, and which interface generates oneself smile further. Then you will understand which is immediately for your self.

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  253. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  260. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  262. If you are nonetheless on the fence: seize your favourite earphones, brain down towards a Easiest Obtain and question in direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and perspective which one seems better toward oneself, and which interface tends to make your self smile further. Then you’ll notice which is straight for oneself.

  263. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  267. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  269. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  271. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  272. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  273. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  274. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  276. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

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  278. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  280. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

  281. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  283. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  286. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  287. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

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