из Стамбула в Памуккале

Быть в Турции и не заехать в провинцию Денизли к белоснежным террасам с бирюзовой водой, было бы преступлением. Каждый год посмотреть на этот шедевр природы приезжает около двух миллионов человек. Мы — не исключение.

0545-1На самом деле, Памуккале — это деревня в провинции Денизли. У нее есть город-побратим в США — Лас-Вегас. Неожиданно, правда? Что может быть у них общего? Всемирная известность, количество туристов?

Памуккале — это турецкое чудо света. Вода, стекающая со склонов горы, образует систему причудливых водоёмов с известняковыми стенами.  Ослепительно белые террасы (травертиновые образования) возникли на склоне горы в результате отложения солей из насыщенных кальцием источников. О посещении этой горы подробно расскажу в другой заметке… Эта посвящена передвижению

Из Стамбула в Памуккале надо проехать около 660 км. Дорожное покрытие отличное, но надо учитывать горные серпантины на большей части пути. Поэтому, делайте запас по времени.

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Если вы путешествуете по воздуху, доберетесь буквально за пару часов. Из Стамбула до ближайшего к Памуккале аэропорта в Денизли самолёт долетает примерно за 1 час. Потом еще 1 час рейсовым автобусом или такси.

 

Из Стамбула мы выехали в пять утра. От нашего отеля в старой части города ехать по Стамбулу еще 80 км. В пробки попадать как-то не хотелось. Хватило того, как мы в Стамбул  въехали.  На улице моросит мелкий дождь, таксисты и много полицейских машин. Кстати, в Турции несколько видов полиции. Гражданская и военная (жандармерия), дорожная полиция (Trafik Polis), в больших городах имеются специальные команды быстрого реагирования, известные как Yunus Polis, еще есть туристическая полиция, в сферу компетенции которой входит весь спектр проблем, связанных с правонарушениями против иностранных граждан. Есть так называемая рыночная полиция (Zabita, Belediye Zabitasi), которая патрулирует рынки и базары. Всю эту огромную «армию» сил правопорядка дополняет армия настоящая — турецкая жандармерия (Jandarma). Вот их действительно много по всей стране. И на дорогах, и в городах, даже в маленьких деревушках на них натыкались. Также можно встретить и представителей военной полиции (Askeri Inzibat) с их характерными белыми шлемами с надписью AsIz. Этих мало. Но, самое главное – туристов никто из этой оравы просто так не трогает.

Едем по Стамбулу. Тетка в навигаторе еще спит, ориентируемся по знакам. Пару раз в темноте нужный поворот пропустили, но на мост через Босфор выскочили. Едем. И тут посередине моста тетка просыпается и орет на весь салон: «Поверните налево!» :-)

Тогда мы в навигаторе разочаровались окончательно и дальше доверяли только бумажным картам. А для следующей поездки приобрели нормальный навигатор Garmin. О выборе навигатора можно почитать здесь.

К слову сказать, просторы Интернета просто таки пестрят статьями о том, что проезд данного моста через Босфор в Азию оплачивается. Босфор делит Стамбул на европейскую и азиатскую части. Если едешь в Европу, проезд бесплатный. Мы ехали в Азию, оплатили. Было темно, дождливо и непонятно: встречные платят или нет.

В каком-то городишке блуканули слегка. Не на той развилке влево ушли. Закончился город, кроме нас на трассе никого. Не уверены, что едем в нужном направлении. Остановились, развернули карту по-полной, разбираемся. Вдруг на дороге показался джип. Дима вышел под дождик, тормознул. Внутри оказались два реальных деда, один рулит, второй чётки перебирает. Ни по-русски, ни по-английски. Переходим на язык жестов.

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На карте показали, куда нам надо. Делают знак: следуй за нами. Едем. Километров 30 вели. На поворотах они сбавляли скорость до 80 км/ч. С виду старенькие, но гоняли по серпантинам прилично:) Дошли до какой-то развилки, они тормозят у обочины. Вышли  деды из джипа на моросящий дождик, руку Диме пожали, раскланялись, сели в свою машину, развернулись, руками помахали, посигналили и укатили назад. Назад. Им не по дороге с нами было! Они просто нас провели до нужной развилки… И это при бензине-то в два евро за литр…  Осознание того, что в этой стране ты не пропадешь и тебе всегда окажут помощь накрепко поселилось в наших сердцах.

Погода в дороге не радовала. Добрались в 16.00. Поселились. Мы сегодня в отеле единственные посетители. Отелей в этом краю много. Даже не так: все жилье, что есть в Памуккале — это все отели. Выбрать достойный и доступный по цене, оказалось задачей непростой. Как всегда, через Booking.com по фильтрам (парковка, цена за ночь и т.д.) нашли двухкомнатный номер с полупансионом (завтрак + ужин). За 30 евро нас еще и покормят? Отлично! Выбор пал на Uyum hotel

0712071107130736Заселяли нас как особ королевской крови:) Разве что красной дорожки не было. Начало сезона, туристов еще нет. Все внимание досталось нам. Говорят на английском, несут наши чемоданы, предлагают чай-кофе с дороги. Спрашиваем: «когда ужин?» — Когда хотите, хоть сейчас, хоть в полночь. Заказали на 19.30. Приходим на ужин. На столе гора хлеба, три порционных салата и три большие тарелки общих блюд. Ну, думаем, нормально, с голоду не помрем. Съели по-быстрому салаты, попробовали что-то горячее на больших тарелках. Приносят супы. Съели. Приносят вторые блюда: картошка, мясо в соусе. Мы начали настораживаться. Подобный ужин у нас дома обошелся бы в 30 евро, но мы ж тут еще и живем. Поглядываем осторожно за спины, где дежурит персонал и мгновенно убирает опустевшую тарелку. Может, мы чего-то не так поняли и еда за денежку? Та нет,  мы ж меню не согласовывали. Второе не осилил никто. Что-то потом еще было принесено. Затем десерт и чай-кофе. Еле дошли до номера и увалились на кровать. Вечер пропал…

А еще в Uyum hotel есть крытый бассейн.  И хозяева любезно нам его предоставили. Круто поплескать в бассейне в апреле! Все включено:)

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Утром легко, но сытно позавтракали. Завтрак был более сдержан, чем вчерашний ужин:) Отправились на экскурсию. Об этом читайте в заметке

Вечером ужинали в ресторане отеля

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Так получилось по календарю, что светлый праздник Пасхи выпал именно на эти даты, когда мы гостили в Uyum hotel. Съездили в Денизли в супермаркет, купили яйца и пасочку (ее роль исполняло большое круглое шоколадное пироженко), а наклейки мы привезли с собой. И вот так праздновали Пасху в Турции

Для визита на белоснежные травертины и древний город Хераполис нам потребовалось два дня. Два дня мы жили в гостеприимном отеле Uyum hotel. А когда настало время уезжать, провожать нас вышел весь персонал отеля! Управляющий, директор, повара. Все обнимали и приглашали приехать к ним еще раз. Для полного погружения в мелодраму не хватало только слёз:)

Также по теме: Край белоснежных природных бассейнов  Древний город Хиераполис

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