Дальян — турецкая Венеция

В апреле здесь воздух пахнет апельсинами и жасмином, в мае — розами и цветущим грейпфрутом, летом собирают вкуснейший горный мед, а в сентябре – сезон сладких ароматных гранат.  Волшебный край. И имя ему — Дальян.

0831Когда мы планировали поездку к Средиземному морю, из всех приморских городков выбрали Дальян. Он небольшой, типично курортный, окруженный горами и фермерскими угодьями. И не граничит с морем напрямую. До пляжа еще с полчаса езды. Чем же привлек нас ( и других туристов) этот край? Благодаря глобальной вычитке отчетов других путешественников, мы нашли описание чудесного песчаного 9-км пляжа с действующим черепашьим госпиталем. Пляж назывался косой Изтузу, а госпиталь — единственным в Турции центром по спасению раненных средиземноморских черепах исчезающего вида «Каретта-Каретта».

0961

0895Вы бы не захотели сюда приехать? Мы однозначно решили, что после Памуккале едем в Дальян. В этом городе мы провели 4 дня. И вернулись сюда спустя 2 года еще раз…

Но, обо всем по порядку. Когда мы подъезжали, неожиданно на дороге показался отряд школьников-барабанщиков. Во главе с дирижером. Они отчаянно колотили палками и что-то громко пели. Это было так необычно, так весело, что казалось, в этом городе все такие: забавные, громкие, музыкальные.

0786 0783Городок маленький, движение сонное. Потеряться невозможно. Отель бронировали заранее. Четверо суток  80 евро. Без питания, готовить планируем сами. Небольшой частный отельчик – 15 номеров. Как положено: бассейн с шезлонгами, на территории с десяток толстенных пальм, барчик и всякое такое. Двухкомнатные апартаменты с двумя балконами, мраморными полами, кухня укомплектована под завязку. За 20 евро в сутки такое шикарное проживание (в 2012 г. это было дешевле, чем в Кирилловке на Азовском море!). У дочки снова своя комната:

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Забегая вперед хочу признаться, что настолько понравился нам этот городишко, настолько запал в душу, что поначалу рассказывать о нем не хотелось. Не хотелось сдавать координаты этого  райского местечка. Как в фильме «Пляж» с Ди Каприо – чем меньше людей знают, тем спокойнее, уютнее, комфортнее. К тому же, русскоязычных там до сегодняшнего дня побывало минимум. К примеру, в этом отеле, из украинцев мы – первые.

Дальян – совершенно другая Турция! Эдакая маленькая копия Беверли Хиллз. Зимой здесь около 6-ти тысяч жителей. Летом из-за туристов население увеличивается в десятки раз. Еще года три-четыре назад это была обычная фермерская деревушка, окруженная цитрусовыми садами. Кстати, благодаря этому, город ни вширь ни расстраивается, ни в высоту не растет. Двух-трехэтажные аккуратные домики. Основные улочки выложены тротуарной плиткой. На столбах можно встретить гнезда аистов. Прямо на улице растут апельсиновые деревья, как в наших селах абрикос или вишня.

486 501Дальян расположен между курортами Мармарис и Фетхие, рядом аэропорт Даламан. Если позаботиться о своем отдыхе за полгода, например, то перелет обойдется в два раза дешевле, чем в сезон.

Мой вам совет:)

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Климат умеренный, очень комфортный, с мягкими зимами и отсутствием испепеляющей жары. Купальный сезон длится с мая по октябрь. Зимой температура не опускается ниже +12, местность окружена невысокими горами, защищающими от ветра и дождя. Рядом с поселком находится природный бассейн с серной водой и дном, покрытым лечебной грязью. Старинные предания говорят о его чудодейственной силе лечить многие кожные заболевания и дарить омолаживающий эффект. Также знамениты и привлекательны для туристов источники с термальной и минеральной водой. Существует легенда, что ванны красоты принимала здесь сама Афродита.

0827Дальян еще называют «турецкой Венецией», он весь изрезан речушками, а передвигаться по водным лабиринтам удобнее на небольших плоскодонных лодках. Вы проплываете среди красивых скалистых гор и плакучих ив, нависающих над водной гладью. Окрестности Дальяна напоминают настоящий райский уголок: много ярких цветов, душистых деревьев и кустарников.

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Наши соотечественники приезжают лишь на косу Изтузу в рамках экскурсионного тура из близлежащих городов. Их привозят автобусами на набережную Дальяна и переправляют к побережью Средиземного моря большими лодками. Что они успевают увидеть? Песчаную косу и Средиземное море? Не уверена, что кто-то из них доходит до черепашьего госпиталя или хоть что-то о нем знает.

581В городке русскую речь не услышишь, но школьного курса английского достаточно, чтобы поддержать легкое получасовое общение.

Основной транспорт – мотороллеры и велосипеды. У припаркованных на обочине машин открыты стекла и часто в замке зажигания оставлены ключи. Двери магазинов не закрываются, если хозяйка куда-то отошла, и даже на ночь не убирается с уличных витрин товар.

«Почему?» — спрашиваю местных.

«Зачем?» — удивляются они. Ведь никто ничего не возьмет.

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А еще только в этом месте Турции водятся огромные голубые крабы, считающиеся очень дорогим деликатесом в Европе. И, конечно же, самым знаменитым и привлекающим туристов является «Черепаший пляж» — коса Изтузу на берегу Средиземного моря, где громадные черепахи исчезающих видов, занесенных в Красную книгу, ежегодно выползают на берег и откладывают яйца.

Подробнее от этом и других достопримечательностях Дальяна, читайте по ссылкам:  Шоппинг в Дальяне   Витамин-кафе  Коса Изтузу    Черепаший госпиталь

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