Бюджетный отель в Стамбуле

При выборе района проживания остановились на Европейской части города. Так было удобнее и по маршруту, и по туристическим достопримечательностям. Мы нашли дешёвый отель в исторической части, чтоб пешком ко всем интересностям. Как это сделать и как разобраться в хитросплетениях адресов, поделюсь с вами.

Многое из того, что стоит посмотреть в Стамбуле в свой первый визит, сосредоточено в одном районе. Если отметить главные достопримечательности Стамбула на карте, окажется, что большинство из них находится в пешей досягаемости друг от друга. Это и есть исторический район города или Старый город. Цены на жилье на разных сайтах отпугивают запредельной ценой.  Если не испугаться первого впечатления, и знать, где выбирать отель, тогда ваше пребывание в этом городе пройдет с минимальными тратами бюджета.

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Большинство туристов, приезжающих в Стамбул и пораженных его колоссальными размерами, предпочитают пользоваться услугами гида или выбирают отель с русскоязычным персоналом. Это затратно. Посещение Стамбула попало в нашу первую «заграничную» поездку на авто. И если мы, плохоговорящие на английском и не знающие турецкого, с этим справились, у вас тоже получится. Главное, знать несколько правил.

  1. Нельзя доверять навигатору в Стамбуле.

То, что Стамбул — город контрастов — знает каждый советский школьник. Но то, что в этом городе каждый год появляется 30 (!) новых улиц, предупредить забыли.

Мы забронировали отель через самую удобную поисковую систему  Booking.com вбили его координаты в навигатор и надеемся, что в этом гигантском муравейнике GPS-гаджет нас спасет.

По платной магистрали несемся к Стамбулу. Как и читали в отчетах, дорожного знака «Стамбул» попросту нет. Просто начинается пригород, и постепенно въезжаем в мощную пробку. Так совпало, что пришлось в час пик ехать по узеньким мощеным улочкам, забитым транспортом, где расстояние между машинами исчисляется миллиметрами.

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Снимки не могут передать этот транспортный коллапс, а снять видео мы как-то не додумались. Как разворачиваются автобусы на микроскопическом пятачке, как носятся скутеры, снуют между машин продавцы с тележками, ругаются водители и безостановочно сигналят. Для нас, жителей маленького провинциального городка с населением в 50 тыс. жителей (как половина Стамбульского университета), это был вселенский хаос! Я вцепилась в кресло и пыталась хоть что-то понять из турецких дорожных знаков, чтоб облегчить водителю задачу. Но они озадачивали меня нечитаемыми ребусами турецкого языка, что еще больше вводило в состояние ступора.

Навигатор тупит. Тетка томным голосом несет всякую чушь. Понимаем – надо искать место для «припарковаться» и прогуляться пешком. И здесь правило №2

   2. Общайтесь с местным населением.

Турки народ общительный и отзывчивый. Используйте это в Стамбуле. Особенно, если заблудились и не можете самостоятельно определить направление движения.

Мы оставили машину в более-менее спокойном переулке и вышли на поиски забронированного места проживания. С собой была распечатка из отеля с адресом и мини картинкой фасада Devran hotel

«Раз, два, три, четыре, пять – я иду искать». Активно пристаем со своей подтвержденной бронировкой. Народ по-английски не шпрехает. Смотрят на адрес на листе бумаги, чешут голову, разводят руками и шагают дальше по своим турецким делам.

Нужно здесь сделать отступление. Это у нас с адресами все легко: улица Ленина, дом такой-то, квартира такая-то. В Стамбуле не все так просто. Здесь ОЧЕНЬ подробный адрес, чтоб проще было найти нужную точку. Турку проще, но никак не европейцу!!! В адрес (естественно, на турецком языке), вписан район старого города, основная улица, примыкающая улица либо проулок, тупик, номер дома. А для пущего облегчения поиска вбит еще и какой-то ориентир – магазин приметный напротив или аптека, может еще чего-то, а могут и фамилию владельца еще вписать, ну чтоб вообще не потеряться :-)

Сплошная абракадабра из длинного двухстрочного названия! 
И вот с подобным адресом пристаем к местному населению. Попадается молодой парень. Видно, не знает где это находится, но очень хочет помочь. Машет, мол, идите за мной. Приходим в парикмахерскую (наверное, он там работает). А турки, мы уже потом приметили, в парикмахерских не только стричься, но и бриться очень любят. И вот этот парень тычет нашу бумажку хозяину заведения, который только-только принялся брить очередного клиента. Второй клиент сидит с газетой в очереди. Парень, хозяин и третий из очереди выходят на порог и начинают махать руками в разных направлениях. Орут, спорят, даже ругаются. На нас ноль внимания – им принципиально уже надо найти этот адрес. Клиент, что с пеной на лице, видит, что там без него всё найдут и тоже присоединяется к орущей компании. В голове всего одна мысль: почему фотоаппарат остался в машине? Заканчивается все тем, что мужик из очереди посылает всех  к черту, берет Диму под локоть и уводит. Метров через 200 сдает в руки хозяина нужного отеля Devran hotel     Вот так.

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Отель колоритный, как и всё в Стамбуле.  В принципе, описание соответствует сайту: верхний этаж, двухспальная кровать (нам на троих), санузел, печка на кухонном столе (однокомфорочная от розетки) и вид на море (его почти видно из-за крыш). Хозяин с именем Али обещается кормить завтраком в номер, это радует. Телевизор показывает «йок», но он совсем не в приоритете :-)

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Район еще тот, скажу я вам ;-) Сто шагов назад — блеск и турецкий шик, здесь в подворотне — беднота и тишина. Но нам от этого спокойно. Машина рядом, в тупике. После ужина и перенесенных потрясений на дороге, вскрываем бутылочку коньячка (привезенного из дома), делаем коктейль с вишневым соком и спускаемся вниз. Надо убедиться, что ночью с машиной точно ничего плохого не случиться. Она не только наш транспорт и впечатанная в паспорт эмблема, это наш второй дом. Мы, как улитки, все привезли с собой. От вещей до круп и домашней консервации.

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Сидим, болтаем, на шляющихся мимо турков поглядываем – наслаждаемся, значит. И тут, без предупреждения!…

Даже вспомнить страшно. Напротив магазин. А над ним, с третьего этажа, из темного окна, где свет не включен, спускается на веревке корзина. И болтается  аккурат над крыльцом, пока продавец ее не заметит. Женщина ловит корзину, вытаскивает оттуда деньги, читает записку, оставленную внутри и грузит нужный товар в эту емкость. Корзина теряется в темном окне третьего этажа – все! Покупатель вернулся домой из магазина. Наш фотик оставался в номере. Блин!!! Эта схема наблюдалась нами и на следующий вечер.

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На следующее утро завтрак в номер, как и договаривались в 8.00. Завтрак континентальный. Колбаса, сыр, брынза, огурцы, помидоры, вареные яйца, оливки всяких сортов, сок, молоко, куча хлеба и свежей выпечки, масло, мед, джемы. Вроде немного, но нормально наелись. Колбасу в Турции делать совершенно не умеют. Можете не проверять – фигня полная. А вот брынза и выпечка достойны похвалы.

3. Чтобы купить провиант и пиво, заходите в маленькие магазинчики

Посещение нескольких мини-маркетов нас приводит в уныние. Цены кусаются, настроение падает. Не так-то легко найти в Стамбульских магазинах что-то понятное нашему кошельку. Еще момент: в маркетах спиртное не продается, потому как туда народ ходит с детьми, а демонстрация грехов человеческих не входит в обязательную программу мусульманского общества.  Получается, не только с хлебом и сыром беда, но и с пивом тоже.  С трудом находим нужный магазинчик. Минимум товара. Хлеб и другие продукты пакуют в обычные пакеты, а две банки пива сгружают в непрозрачный черный пакет. Это как знак, как черная метка: ты — пьющий человек :-)  Идем с этим пакетом по улице, как прокаженные. Хоть и не видно, что внутри, но все-то знают что ты несешь..

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Следующим вечером по привычке вышли на порожек отеля с баночками пива в руках. Продавцы суетятся, рассовывают свой товар обратно в машины, убирают уличные витрины. В общем, жизнь кипит. И тут мы — с пивом в руках. Тихо общаемся между собой, следим, чтоб мимо машины ничего габаритного не таскали. Никого не трогаем, в их мирную торговую жизнь не лезем.

Проходит минут пять и вокруг нас наблюдается какое-то странное оживление. На верхних этажах зажигаются окна, высовываются дамы и что-то говорят в нашу сторону. Видят, что мы не реагируем, тогда переговариваются между собой. Вот так: одна высунутая из окна второго этажа первого дома, вторая торчит из окна третьего этажа первого дома. Горланят, ругаются. Думаем, мало ли что женщины выясняют между собой на ночь глядя. Это чужой мир, мусульманский. А мы простые туристы. Стой себе и молчи.

Изредка проходящие мимо местные аборигены пристально в нас вглядывались. И что-то бурчали, но не так громко как женщины из окна. А спустя короткое время один дедушка в летах не выдержал и подошел. И ка-а-а-а-к высказал нам по полной программе на смеси английского и турецкого. Идите, мол, к себе в номер или в ресторан, и там пейте. На улице категорически нельзя! Это оскверняет из веру и традиции.

Мы, конечно, хотели от стыда заплакать, но вовремя спохватились и просто допили пиво у себя в номере Devran hotel

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Иногда вечерами мы забавлялись тем, что кормили крикливых чаек из окна. Они облюбовали соседние крыши и настырно галдели, выпрашивая кусочки хлеба.

Наш отель Devran hotel находился в бедном квартале, но рядом с Ай-Софией. Каждый вечер мы наблюдали, как седобородые старцы рассиживались на стульях возле своих халабуд, играли в нарды, разговаривали и пили чай. В окнах их домов горело всего по одной лампочке без абажура, а женщины общались между собой, выглянув из окна. Громкоголосые, они создавали какую-то веселую перебранку между домами, наполняя переулки сочной жизнью. Их дети бегали по улицам, ловко уворачиваясь от машин и скутеров. У них не было песочниц и игровых площадок. У них не было игрушек и различных гаджетов. Они рисовали углем на булыжной мостовой и весело смеялись.

Я понимала, что у них есть все, чтобы чувствовать себя счастливыми. Они были счастливы без условностей. А нам кажется, что нужно еще что-то большее, чем имеем, чтоб чувствовать себя такими же ликующими каждый день. Это мы сами установили границу, отделив от себя радость. Я смотрела на этих людей и осознавала, что в Стамбул приехала не зря.

Турки — народ очень отзывчивый и доброжелательный. Соблюдая нормы принятой морали и проявляя уважение к их вере, вы влюбитесь в Стамбул, как влюбилась в него я.

Читайте по теме: Прогулки по Стамбулу  Бесплатные развлечения в Стамбуле  Голубая мечеть  Прогулка по заливу Золотой Рог  Город в городе. Стамбульский базар

P.S. Дима говорит теперь, что после Стамбула ему как водителю уже ничего не страшно :-)

199 thoughts on “Бюджетный отель в Стамбуле

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