Бюджетный отель в Стамбуле

При выборе района проживания остановились на Европейской части города. Так было удобнее и по маршруту, и по туристическим достопримечательностям. Мы нашли дешёвый отель в исторической части, чтоб пешком ко всем интересностям. Как это сделать и как разобраться в хитросплетениях адресов, поделюсь с вами.

Многое из того, что стоит посмотреть в Стамбуле в свой первый визит, сосредоточено в одном районе. Если отметить главные достопримечательности Стамбула на карте, окажется, что большинство из них находится в пешей досягаемости друг от друга. Это и есть исторический район города или Старый город. Цены на жилье на разных сайтах отпугивают запредельной ценой.  Если не испугаться первого впечатления, и знать, где выбирать отель, тогда ваше пребывание в этом городе пройдет с минимальными тратами бюджета.

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Большинство туристов, приезжающих в Стамбул и пораженных его колоссальными размерами, предпочитают пользоваться услугами гида или выбирают отель с русскоязычным персоналом. Это затратно. Посещение Стамбула попало в нашу первую «заграничную» поездку на авто. И если мы, плохоговорящие на английском и не знающие турецкого, с этим справились, у вас тоже получится. Главное, знать несколько правил.

  1. Нельзя доверять навигатору в Стамбуле.

То, что Стамбул — город контрастов — знает каждый советский школьник. Но то, что в этом городе каждый год появляется 30 (!) новых улиц, предупредить забыли.

Мы забронировали отель через самую удобную поисковую систему  Booking.com вбили его координаты в навигатор и надеемся, что в этом гигантском муравейнике GPS-гаджет нас спасет.

По платной магистрали несемся к Стамбулу. Как и читали в отчетах, дорожного знака «Стамбул» попросту нет. Просто начинается пригород, и постепенно въезжаем в мощную пробку. Так совпало, что пришлось в час пик ехать по узеньким мощеным улочкам, забитым транспортом, где расстояние между машинами исчисляется миллиметрами.

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Снимки не могут передать этот транспортный коллапс, а снять видео мы как-то не додумались. Как разворачиваются автобусы на микроскопическом пятачке, как носятся скутеры, снуют между машин продавцы с тележками, ругаются водители и безостановочно сигналят. Для нас, жителей маленького провинциального городка с населением в 50 тыс. жителей (как половина Стамбульского университета), это был вселенский хаос! Я вцепилась в кресло и пыталась хоть что-то понять из турецких дорожных знаков, чтоб облегчить водителю задачу. Но они озадачивали меня нечитаемыми ребусами турецкого языка, что еще больше вводило в состояние ступора.

Навигатор тупит. Тетка томным голосом несет всякую чушь. Понимаем – надо искать место для «припарковаться» и прогуляться пешком. И здесь правило №2

   2. Общайтесь с местным населением.

Турки народ общительный и отзывчивый. Используйте это в Стамбуле. Особенно, если заблудились и не можете самостоятельно определить направление движения.

Мы оставили машину в более-менее спокойном переулке и вышли на поиски забронированного места проживания. С собой была распечатка из отеля с адресом и мини картинкой фасада Devran hotel

«Раз, два, три, четыре, пять – я иду искать». Активно пристаем со своей подтвержденной бронировкой. Народ по-английски не шпрехает. Смотрят на адрес на листе бумаги, чешут голову, разводят руками и шагают дальше по своим турецким делам.

Нужно здесь сделать отступление. Это у нас с адресами все легко: улица Ленина, дом такой-то, квартира такая-то. В Стамбуле не все так просто. Здесь ОЧЕНЬ подробный адрес, чтоб проще было найти нужную точку. Турку проще, но никак не европейцу!!! В адрес (естественно, на турецком языке), вписан район старого города, основная улица, примыкающая улица либо проулок, тупик, номер дома. А для пущего облегчения поиска вбит еще и какой-то ориентир – магазин приметный напротив или аптека, может еще чего-то, а могут и фамилию владельца еще вписать, ну чтоб вообще не потеряться :-)

Сплошная абракадабра из длинного двухстрочного названия! 
И вот с подобным адресом пристаем к местному населению. Попадается молодой парень. Видно, не знает где это находится, но очень хочет помочь. Машет, мол, идите за мной. Приходим в парикмахерскую (наверное, он там работает). А турки, мы уже потом приметили, в парикмахерских не только стричься, но и бриться очень любят. И вот этот парень тычет нашу бумажку хозяину заведения, который только-только принялся брить очередного клиента. Второй клиент сидит с газетой в очереди. Парень, хозяин и третий из очереди выходят на порог и начинают махать руками в разных направлениях. Орут, спорят, даже ругаются. На нас ноль внимания – им принципиально уже надо найти этот адрес. Клиент, что с пеной на лице, видит, что там без него всё найдут и тоже присоединяется к орущей компании. В голове всего одна мысль: почему фотоаппарат остался в машине? Заканчивается все тем, что мужик из очереди посылает всех  к черту, берет Диму под локоть и уводит. Метров через 200 сдает в руки хозяина нужного отеля Devran hotel     Вот так.

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Отель колоритный, как и всё в Стамбуле.  В принципе, описание соответствует сайту: верхний этаж, двухспальная кровать (нам на троих), санузел, печка на кухонном столе (однокомфорочная от розетки) и вид на море (его почти видно из-за крыш). Хозяин с именем Али обещается кормить завтраком в номер, это радует. Телевизор показывает «йок», но он совсем не в приоритете :-)

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Район еще тот, скажу я вам ;-) Сто шагов назад — блеск и турецкий шик, здесь в подворотне — беднота и тишина. Но нам от этого спокойно. Машина рядом, в тупике. После ужина и перенесенных потрясений на дороге, вскрываем бутылочку коньячка (привезенного из дома), делаем коктейль с вишневым соком и спускаемся вниз. Надо убедиться, что ночью с машиной точно ничего плохого не случиться. Она не только наш транспорт и впечатанная в паспорт эмблема, это наш второй дом. Мы, как улитки, все привезли с собой. От вещей до круп и домашней консервации.

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Сидим, болтаем, на шляющихся мимо турков поглядываем – наслаждаемся, значит. И тут, без предупреждения!…

Даже вспомнить страшно. Напротив магазин. А над ним, с третьего этажа, из темного окна, где свет не включен, спускается на веревке корзина. И болтается  аккурат над крыльцом, пока продавец ее не заметит. Женщина ловит корзину, вытаскивает оттуда деньги, читает записку, оставленную внутри и грузит нужный товар в эту емкость. Корзина теряется в темном окне третьего этажа – все! Покупатель вернулся домой из магазина. Наш фотик оставался в номере. Блин!!! Эта схема наблюдалась нами и на следующий вечер.

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На следующее утро завтрак в номер, как и договаривались в 8.00. Завтрак континентальный. Колбаса, сыр, брынза, огурцы, помидоры, вареные яйца, оливки всяких сортов, сок, молоко, куча хлеба и свежей выпечки, масло, мед, джемы. Вроде немного, но нормально наелись. Колбасу в Турции делать совершенно не умеют. Можете не проверять – фигня полная. А вот брынза и выпечка достойны похвалы.

3. Чтобы купить провиант и пиво, заходите в маленькие магазинчики

Посещение нескольких мини-маркетов нас приводит в уныние. Цены кусаются, настроение падает. Не так-то легко найти в Стамбульских магазинах что-то понятное нашему кошельку. Еще момент: в маркетах спиртное не продается, потому как туда народ ходит с детьми, а демонстрация грехов человеческих не входит в обязательную программу мусульманского общества.  Получается, не только с хлебом и сыром беда, но и с пивом тоже.  С трудом находим нужный магазинчик. Минимум товара. Хлеб и другие продукты пакуют в обычные пакеты, а две банки пива сгружают в непрозрачный черный пакет. Это как знак, как черная метка: ты — пьющий человек :-)  Идем с этим пакетом по улице, как прокаженные. Хоть и не видно, что внутри, но все-то знают что ты несешь..

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Следующим вечером по привычке вышли на порожек отеля с баночками пива в руках. Продавцы суетятся, рассовывают свой товар обратно в машины, убирают уличные витрины. В общем, жизнь кипит. И тут мы — с пивом в руках. Тихо общаемся между собой, следим, чтоб мимо машины ничего габаритного не таскали. Никого не трогаем, в их мирную торговую жизнь не лезем.

Проходит минут пять и вокруг нас наблюдается какое-то странное оживление. На верхних этажах зажигаются окна, высовываются дамы и что-то говорят в нашу сторону. Видят, что мы не реагируем, тогда переговариваются между собой. Вот так: одна высунутая из окна второго этажа первого дома, вторая торчит из окна третьего этажа первого дома. Горланят, ругаются. Думаем, мало ли что женщины выясняют между собой на ночь глядя. Это чужой мир, мусульманский. А мы простые туристы. Стой себе и молчи.

Изредка проходящие мимо местные аборигены пристально в нас вглядывались. И что-то бурчали, но не так громко как женщины из окна. А спустя короткое время один дедушка в летах не выдержал и подошел. И ка-а-а-а-к высказал нам по полной программе на смеси английского и турецкого. Идите, мол, к себе в номер или в ресторан, и там пейте. На улице категорически нельзя! Это оскверняет из веру и традиции.

Мы, конечно, хотели от стыда заплакать, но вовремя спохватились и просто допили пиво у себя в номере Devran hotel

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Иногда вечерами мы забавлялись тем, что кормили крикливых чаек из окна. Они облюбовали соседние крыши и настырно галдели, выпрашивая кусочки хлеба.

Наш отель Devran hotel находился в бедном квартале, но рядом с Ай-Софией. Каждый вечер мы наблюдали, как седобородые старцы рассиживались на стульях возле своих халабуд, играли в нарды, разговаривали и пили чай. В окнах их домов горело всего по одной лампочке без абажура, а женщины общались между собой, выглянув из окна. Громкоголосые, они создавали какую-то веселую перебранку между домами, наполняя переулки сочной жизнью. Их дети бегали по улицам, ловко уворачиваясь от машин и скутеров. У них не было песочниц и игровых площадок. У них не было игрушек и различных гаджетов. Они рисовали углем на булыжной мостовой и весело смеялись.

Я понимала, что у них есть все, чтобы чувствовать себя счастливыми. Они были счастливы без условностей. А нам кажется, что нужно еще что-то большее, чем имеем, чтоб чувствовать себя такими же ликующими каждый день. Это мы сами установили границу, отделив от себя радость. Я смотрела на этих людей и осознавала, что в Стамбул приехала не зря.

Турки — народ очень отзывчивый и доброжелательный. Соблюдая нормы принятой морали и проявляя уважение к их вере, вы влюбитесь в Стамбул, как влюбилась в него я.

Читайте по теме: Прогулки по Стамбулу  Бесплатные развлечения в Стамбуле  Голубая мечеть  Прогулка по заливу Золотой Рог  Город в городе. Стамбульский базар

P.S. Дима говорит теперь, что после Стамбула ему как водителю уже ничего не страшно :-)

337 thoughts on “Бюджетный отель в Стамбуле

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  210. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  211. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  278. If you are still upon the fence: get your favored earphones, thoughts down in direction of a Most straightforward Get and inquire in the direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and perspective which one particular seems much better in direction of oneself, and which interface would make yourself smile extra. Then you’ll notice which is instantly for on your own.

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  281. Apple at the moment has Rhapsody as an app, which is a very good get started, nevertheless it is already hampered by way of the lack of ability in direction of retail outlet locally upon your iPod, and includes a dismal 64kbps little bit value. If this improvements, then it will considerably negate this comfort for the Zune, nevertheless the 10 audio for each thirty day period will even now be a significant moreover inside of Zune Pass’ choose.

  282. The Zune concentrates on remaining a Portable Media Player. Not a net browser. Not a game machine. Quite possibly inside the potential it’ll do even much better within just all those areas, yet for by now it really is a excellent path towards set up and listen in direction of your tunes and motion pictures, and is without peer within just that regard. The iPod’s pros are its net viewing and apps. If those people reliable more compelling, potentially it is your perfect decision.

  283. Zune and iPod: Highest men and women assess the Zune to the Contact, still at the time viewing how slender and remarkably lower and gentle it is, I get it toward be a instead exceptional hybrid that brings together characteristics of the two the Contact and the Nano. It really is Really colourful and stunning OLED display is somewhat scaled-down than the contact screen, still the player by itself feels rather a little bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as substantially, and is appreciably smaller within width and height, though currently being simply a hair thicker.

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  293. If you’re however on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, intellect down to a Simplest Order and ask in the direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and perspective which 1 appears greater in direction of on your own, and which interface helps make yourself smile even further. Then you’ll notice which is specifically for you.

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  295. Zune and iPod: Maximum us residents review the Zune to the Contact, yet the moment seeing how slim and remarkably minor and gentle it is, I choose it to be a very distinctive hybrid that brings together attributes of both the Touch and the Nano. It is rather vibrant and lovely OLED display is a little bit smaller sized than the contact screen, still the participant itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs around 2/3 as substantially, and is appreciably smaller sized inside of width and top, although being specifically a hair thicker.

  296. I am going to machines this evaluate in direction of Two versions of individuals: existing Zune householders who are thinking of an upgrade, and men and women trying toward come to a decision among a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players importance thinking of out there, which include the Sony Walkman X, nonetheless I assume this presents on your own adequate data towards create an mindful alternative of the Zune vs avid gamers other than the iPod line as effectively.)

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  300. This is getting to be a little bit far more subjective, yet I substantially choose the Zune Market place. The interface is vibrant, contains much more aptitude, and some awesome features such as ‘Mixview’ that let oneself out of the blue check out comparable albums, audio, or other end users identical to what you happen to be listening towards. Clicking upon one of those will center on that product or service, and an additional fixed of «neighbors» will arrive into belief, allowing your self to navigate above studying via very similar artists, new music, or buyers. Conversing of people, the Zune «Social» is too excellent enjoyable, letting by yourself find other folks with shared tastes and getting pals with them. Oneself then can hear towards a playlist designed dependent on an amalgamation of what all your buddies are listening to, which is in addition fascinating. All those nervous with privateness will be relieved toward understand by yourself can reduce the community versus looking at your specific listening behavior if oneself as a result choose.

  301. Apple already is made up of Rhapsody as an application, which is a outstanding get started, nonetheless it is already hampered via the incapacity toward shop domestically upon your iPod, and consists of a dismal 64kbps little bit value. If this improvements, then it will somewhat negate this usefulness for the Zune, but the 10 tunes for every thirty day period will even now be a significant moreover in just Zune Pass’ favor.

  302. This is taking a little bit extra subjective, nevertheless I significantly prefer the Zune Market. The interface is vibrant, has additional aptitude, and some awesome capabilities including ‘Mixview’ that make it possible for yourself abruptly perspective very similar albums, songs, or other customers identical to what you’re listening in the direction of. Clicking on a single of those will centre upon that item, and an additional mounted of «neighbors» will arrive into see, permitting yourself in the direction of navigate over researching by means of equivalent artists, new music, or end users. Speaking of consumers, the Zune «Social» is also suitable exciting, allowing by yourself locate others with shared tastes and getting to be pals with them. Your self then can pay attention to a playlist crafted dependent upon an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening in direction of, which is as well thrilling. People fearful with privateness will be relieved in the direction of realize by yourself can avoid the community versus observing your specific listening patterns if by yourself thus make a decision.

  303. Zune and iPod: Most Those look at the Zune toward the Touch, still soon after viewing how skinny and shockingly low and mild it is, I choose it in the direction of be a fairly special hybrid that combines attributes of both equally the Touch and the Nano. It is really exceptionally colorful and magnificent OLED display is marginally scaled-down than the contact screen, still the player itself feels rather a little bit scaled-down and lighter. It weighs above 2/3 as much, and is noticeably scaled-down inside width and top, though being just a hair thicker.

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  320. The clean Zune browser is remarkably optimistic, still not as Great as the iPod’s. It performs effectively, yet isn’t really as instantaneous as Safari, and consists of a clunkier interface. If on your own once in a while system on utilizing the website browser which is not an issue, yet if you might be creating towards study the internet alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s larger sized screen and superior browser may perhaps be major.

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