Остров проклятых. Спиналонга

Говорят, там снимали фильм «Остров проклятых» с Лео ДиКаприо. Не верьте. Доказательств этому нет. Тем не менее, остров очень интересный. Как его только не называют: остров-лечебница, царство проказы, остров слез, остров живых мертвецов. Если вы отдыхаете на Крите, Спиналонга — обязателен к посещению!

Греческий сериал «Остров», по мотивам одноименного романа Виктории Хислоп, привлек  внимание к всеми забытому островку Спиналонга. Сегодня — это самое посещаемое место на Крите после Кносса. Статистика указывает цифру: 2000 туристов в день.  Развалины древнего города Олунда, остатки венецианской крепости и мистическая история острова Спиналонги, полная человеческих страданий и жестоких боев, манит туристов со всего мира на этот небольшой клочок суши.

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От нашего отеля Malia beach до поселка Элунда доехали на машине, там пересели на кораблик. Приближаясь на катере к острову, замечаем на вершине развивающиеся черные флаги. Они производят какое-то печально-траурное впечатление. Туристов много, все шумят, строятся в очередь, приобретают билетики. Поднимаемся ко входу. Зеркальный коридор, зловещие звуки. Страшновато. На потолке висят динамики из которых доносятся эти самые вопли. Хитро придумано. В атмосферу погружает.

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Спиналонга не всегда был островом. По сведениям венецианского картографа, в 1526 году его соотечественники решили отделить часть полуострова Спиналонга и создать остров для усиления защиты порта Элунда и залива Мирабелло от постоянных пиратских набегов. Венецианцы построили крепость с 35 пушками на развалинах древнего акрополя. Тогда Кипр был уже захвачен турками, и было очевидно, что скоро придет очередь Крита. После захвата Крита в 1649 г. турками Спиналонга оставался в руках венецианцев до 1715 г. Это настоящая неприступная скала, на протяжении десятилетий охранявшая свою независимость от завоевателей.

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Мы решили экскурсию не брать, а побродить сколько нам хочется. Обратный билет оплачен без привязки ко времени. Каждые полчаса от пристани отходят катера. В какой успел, на том и плывешь.

Если вы поклонники передачи «Орел и решка», то вы помните советы, которые даются бедным туристам:) Мы всегда ими пользуемся. И в этот раз услышав русскую речь, присоединились к группе туристов, идем с ними дальше. Экскурсовод рассказывает историю острова.

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Спиналонга долго находился под контролем турок. Греки, решив прогнать турок с острова, собрали прокажённых со всей Греции и отправили их к острову. Турки, испугавшись заразы, сбежали с острова. Официально лепрозорий просуществовал здесь с 1903 по 1955 год.

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Ранее прокаженные из-за ужасающего вида заразной болезни жили, отторгнутые местным населением. В то время люди безумно боялись лепры, и прокаженные должны были носить колокольчики, чтобы здоровые могли заранее отдалиться от них. Тогда еще не было известно, что большая часть населения имеет природный иммунитет против проказы, и риск заражения был намного меньшим, чем казалось. Поэтому островок был идеальным решением для изоляции больных и для спокойствия здорового населения.

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Отстров Спиналонга находится всего в 250 м от Крита. Людей, больных проказой и заточенных на этом острове на пожизненное существование, такая близость к нормальной жизни сводила с ума. Они не доживали свой век, сбрасывались со скал вниз, о чем свидетельствует статуя безрукой женщины на верхушке скалы. Печаль, отчаяние, безнадежность, слезы –  основа жизни людей, которые здесь жили полвека назад. Кто был способен ходить и работать, возделывали огородики в южной части острова. Государство выделяло на каждого больного 200г хлеба в сутки. Основную еду они добывали себе сами – пекли, варили, выращивали, продавали, готовили. Изначально условия жизни на острове для больных были ужасные, Спиналонга представлял собой бесконечные трущобы, погрязшие в полной нищете и убожестве, кладбище с отсрочкой, без малейшей организации, без лекарств, без надежды. Многие умирали от диких болей, обезображенные и всеми забытые.

Не смотря на все трудности, эти люди не только не опустили руки, но и развили  общество со своими правилами и ценностями. Заключали браки, хотя это и было запрещено законом из-за их болезни, рожали детей – некоторые из которых появлялись на свет здоровыми. На острове также действовала Церковь Святого Пантелеймона, построенная больными. Там вел службы один смелый священник. Будучи здоровым, он добровольно вызвался разделить свою жизнь с прокаженными. Открывали кофейни, пекарни, парикмахерские, магазины для улучшения своих же условий жизни. На небольшое пособие покупали необходимые продукты на маленьком базаре, который организовывали крестьяне с Плаки у ворот острова.

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Ситуация стала изменяться в 1936 г., когда на остров прибыл больной Эпаминондас Ремундакис, студент третьего курса юридического факультета, который стал основателем «Братство Больных Спиналонги» и боролся много лет за улучшение условий проживания больных. Благодаря деятельности общества на Спиналонге были отремонтированы дома, была открыта окружная дорога, организована служба уборки улиц, был построен театр, а из динамиков на улицах лилась классическая музыка. Так жизнь прокаженных стала напоминать что-то близкое к жизни нормальных людей за пределами этого острова. Даже электричество на Крите впервые появилось именно здесь.

В 1948 г. в Америке было открыто лекарство, лечащее вирус лепры.  В 50-х годах прошлого века вакцина добралась и до «острова проклятых». Всех вылечили, а остров превратили в музей и сделали посещаемым для туристов.

В наши дни Спиналонга признан археологическим памятником, некоторые здания реставрируются. Его посещают более 300 000 человек в год, что возводит его в первую пятерку византийских  археологических достопримечательностей Греции.

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Честно говоря, в полное исцеление и абсолютную стерильность верилось плохо. Мы усиленно терли руки антбактериальными салфетками и брызгались спреем «стоп-инфекция», предусмотрительно взятым из дома:)

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В принципе, остров небольшой. Если вы бродите по нему без экскурсии, поднимитесь наверх, к черным флагам. Оттуда открывается изумительный панорамный вид на Крит. Что еще делать на острове? Устройте фотосессию. Выпуклые каменный стены оттенка охры — отличный фон для летних снимков.

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Спиналонга будоражит своей темной историей не только туристов, но и деятелей культуры. Начиная с середины 50-х годов об этом печальном острове начинают снимать фильмы. «Letzte Worte», «Остров молчания», «L’Ordre» — эти картины заставляют задуматься о жизни людей на этом острове, дергают за струны души и как следствие эмоционально переданной истории, удостаиваются премий международных фестивалей.

Спиналонга — остров, которые не оставит вас равнодушным.

Также по теме: Рыбаки и лодки. Крит   Пляж Ваи — Баунти beach   Таверна No stress   Морской аквариум   50 оттенков синего. Бухта Мирабелло   прокат авто на о.Крит

 

 

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  253. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  259. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  261. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  264. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  265. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  267. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  268. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  269. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  270. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  273. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  274. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  277. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  279. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  280. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  282. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  283. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

  284. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  285. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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