Грузия на автобусе

Отправляясь в путешествие летом 2012г, о Грузии я знала не больше, чем любой среднестатистический украинец. Грузия — это горы, море, фрукты, Саакашвили. Пожалуй, всё…

Прежде чем начать рассказ о стране, оговорюсь — это был автобусный тур, первый из двух в моей жизни путешественника, о нем я упоминала в этой заметке.

Условия проживания обещались групповые и периодические палаточные, зато бюджетно, весело и познавательно. Это путешествие мы разделили с подругой, и 8 дней 9 ночей познавали гордую и горную страну Грузия вместе.

Стартовали из Запорожья. При погрузке в автобус обращаю внимание, что большая часть отправившихся в этот тур – женщины возраста 40+ и мысли о том, как провести две ночи в автобусе так, чтоб на утро ничего не болело и не скрипело, отпадают сами по себе.

Приятной неожиданностью стало отсутствие визового режима. На границе нам поставили только штамп в загранпаспорт и пожелали доброго пути. Там же мы поменяли деньги (евро, доллары, рубли) на национальную валюту – лари.

Российскую границу проходили долго, часа три. Хотя в миграционных картах ясно указали: цель визита — транзит, принимающая сторона – Грузия. Россияне устроили досмотр сумок, провизии, автобуса. Приходила собака, искала по запаху наркотики. В общем, это был самый пристальный досмотр.

8 июля 2012 6.00

При въезде в первый населенный пункт – Степанцминда (в 1921—2007 годы назывался Казбеги), смотрите в правую сторону. Там увидите величественную гору Казбек, высотою 5033,8 метров.

Первая остановка в Грузии – поселок Гергети, 24 км от границы. Дорога в Грузии разочаровывает с первых же километров пути. Ее просто нет! Неровная грунтовка с неосвещенными тоннелями. Жесть. Мы рассматривали горные пейзажи и пытались отвлечься от трясущихся сидений. Две ночи в автобусе, восьмичасовая прогулка по Кисловодску (по международным правилам автобусу требовался отстой, а водителям отдых) усиливали желание как можно скорее припасть к грузинской земле.

Заказали машины подъема («Нивы» и джипы «Тойота») и всей группой отправились по горному серпантину вверх к Гергети Тринити Самэба – церкви святой Троицы. Только рожденный в горном ауле грузин способен при быстрой езде по таким грунтовым узкоколейкам сохранить жизнь себе и своим пассажирам. Нас кидало в разные стороны, было страшно, но мертвой хваткой вцепившись в сиденья, наверх мы добрались в целости и сохранности.

Эта местность на карте обозначена как «Степансминда», в честь пророка Степана (названого впоследствии Святым), который предрек оползень, предупредил всех жителей села о грядущей опасности, они покинули свои жилища и, таким образом, спаслись. Нынешний поселок StepanSminda расположен сверху присыпанного прежнего поселения.

Надеваем балахоны и платки – только в таком виде женщина может зайти в церковь. Храм построен XIV веке. Рядом средневековая колокольня. Внутри храм аскетичен. Фресок нет, даже штукатурки нет, стены сложены из каменных блоков. Внутри темновато. Электричества внутри храма нет, а окна очень узкие. Фотографировать нельзя. Существует поверье: тот, кто хочет замолить свои грехи, должен приползти в храм на коленях. А это непросто —  2170 м над уровнем моря, на минуточку.

Вниз смотреть страшно.  Моросящий дождь усиливает желание завершить прослушивание старинных легенд и войти в церковь. В таких древних церквях с намоленными иконами ощущаешь себя ближе к Богу. Нет пафоса. Никакого золота и ковров. Наш гид объясняет, что при Советской власти все стены церкви были забелены известью, и спустя годы лики святых на иконах проявились. Задерживаемся у каждой, ставим свечи, ведем молчаливый диалог. Сюда приходят люди набожные, разной национальности и путь в несколько тысяч километров — для них не преграда.

Делаем памятные снимки и пока небеса не разгневались и дорогу не размыло, съезжаем вниз.

После обеда идем гулять по поселку, заходим в музей этого самого Степана, покупаем билет и весь двухэтажный музей в нашем распоряжении.  Видно, что хозяйская рука не касалась экспонатов со времен Второй мировой. За 2 лари  можно везде ходить, фотографироваться, касаться предметов. Все по очереди пытаемся изобразить Моцарта, извлечь звуки из старинного инструмента с залипшими клавишами.

Гуляем дальше, находим рынок с ароматными персиками, абрикосами (все по 1 лари за 1 кг). Покупаем, моем, едим. Все фрукты привозные, т.к. в этой местности особенная погода, и в середине июля на здешних деревьях только начинает краснеть черешня. Люди, в целом, живут бедно. Об этом свидетельствуют экономия электричества (если в магазин заходит покупатель, продавец включает свет, а так сидит в полутьме) и внешний вид местных. Но это никак не отражается на пресловутом грузинском гостеприимстве.

По поселку разлетается слух об украинских туристах, проехавших автобусом полторы тысячи километров, чтоб увидеть Грузию. Каждый уважающий себя грузин пытается затащить нас к себе в таверну/магазин/двор и угостить вином. Покупаем чачу (знаменитый грузинский виноградный самогон ~ 50˚ по 11 лари за 2 литра) и вино (ударение на первом слоге). Причем, и вино и чачу можно приобрести в любом магазине. Абсолютно в любом! И не важно, что на прилавках овощи или какой-то другой товар. Вы только задайте вопрос продавцу. И тут же откидывается коврик и из «волшебной» коробки появляются разлитые по пластиковым бутылкам напитки :-)

Идет дождь, собираемся под крышей хостела, слушаем бесконечные тосты, пьем. Появляются иностранцы, с помощью чачи знакомимся и налаживаем интернациональный язык.  Удивляемся, как много туристов съехалось в этот горный аул. Здесь и американцы, и итальянцы, и поляки, и голландцы, и эстонцы. С рюкзаками и туда же, к церкви. Знакомимся с российскими дельтапланеристами (живущими здесь же в гест-хаусе), которые колесят по Грузии, останавливаются то тут, то там и зарабатывают себе на жизнь любимым делом.

Дождь прекратился, но прогноз погоды неутешительный. Утром нас ждет переезд в Тбилиси — столицу Грузии.

Если хотите уютно и недорого поселиться в Казбеги, рекомендую хостел  Красный камень.

Почитайте отзывы на сайте Букинг, его все рекомендуют. Зачёт!

По теме Грузия:   Пешком по Тбилиси    Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми

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  94. Arms down, Apple’s application store wins by a mile. It is really a huge range of all forms of applications vs a really unsatisfied quantity of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of Designs, primarily in the realm of games, still I’m not certainly I might want toward wager on the long term if this aspect is important towards oneself. The iPod is a a lot superior alternative in just that scenario.

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  99. The fresh Zune browser is astonishingly Great, nonetheless not as Wonderful as the iPod’s. It functions perfectly, however isn’t really as immediate as Safari, and includes a clunkier interface. If yourself often system on utilizing the web browser which is not an issue, nonetheless if you might be planning towards read through the world-wide-web alot towards your PMP then the iPod’s bigger display screen and much better browser may perhaps be vital.

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  105. Apple currently includes Rhapsody as an app, which is a superior get started, still it is currently hampered by the incapacity in direction of keep domestically upon your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit price tag. If this adjustments, then it will considerably negate this ease for the Zune, yet the 10 tunes for every month will nevertheless be a massive additionally in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  121. Hands down, Apple’s app keep wins as a result of a mile. It is a massive quantity of all styles of purposes vs a quite disappointed conclusion of a handful for Zune. Microsoft incorporates plans, particularly in the realm of online games, but I’m not sure I would want in the direction of guess on the upcoming if this aspect is major toward by yourself. The iPod is a substantially improved final decision in that case.

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  156. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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  181. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  182. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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  186. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  190. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  191. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

  192. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  194. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  195. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

  196. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

  197. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  198. I and my guys happened to be checking out the great solutions from your web page and so before long I got a terrible feeling I never thanked the blog owner for those secrets. Those young boys are actually certainly joyful to read through all of them and already have sincerely been having fun with these things. Thanks for turning out to be really kind and also for going for variety of essential subject matter millions of individuals are really desperate to be informed on. Our own sincere regret for not expressing appreciation to you sooner.

  199. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

  200. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  203. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of «neighbors» will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune «Social» is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

  204. Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

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  206. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  207. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  224. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  225. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  248. The Zune concentrates upon currently being a Portable Media Player. Not a net browser. Not a video game machine. Possibly within the future it’s going to do even superior inside those areas, nevertheless for at present it truly is a remarkable course in the direction of set up and listen in the direction of your songs and videos, and is devoid of peer in that regard. The iPod’s positive aspects are its world wide web visiting and applications. If people reliable further compelling, maybe it is your great option.

  249. Awsome article and right to the point. I don’t know if this is in fact the best place to ask but do you guys have any thoughts on where to employ some professional writers? Thanks :)

  250. The refreshing Zune browser is surprisingly beneficial, nevertheless not as superior as the iPod’s. It performs nicely, still isn’t as fast as Safari, and contains a clunkier interface. If your self often application upon utilizing the net browser that is not an issue, however if you might be designing toward read through the internet alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s more substantial screen and superior browser may well be essential.

  251. If you happen to be still upon the fence: seize your most loved earphones, head down towards a Least complicated Get and question in the direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one particular seems better towards yourself, and which interface makes you smile further more. Then you may notice which is directly for you.

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  256. Excellent read, I just passed this onto a colleague who was doing a little research on that. And he actually bought me lunch as I found it for him smile Thus let me rephrase that: Thanks for lunch!

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  258. Sorry for the huge analyze, yet I’m actually loving the refreshing Zune, and anticipate this, as well as the suitable opinions some other These include created, will aid oneself decide if it truly is the directly conclusion for oneself.

  259. This is turning out to be a little bit additional subjective, however I a lot prefer the Zune Current market. The interface is colourful, has excess aptitude, and some neat options which includes ‘Mixview’ that permit on your own abruptly perspective related albums, audio, or other people related towards what you’re listening to. Clicking upon just one of these will middle on that products, and an additional preset of «neighbors» will occur into see, allowing on your own in direction of navigate near studying by means of equivalent artists, songs, or consumers. Conversing of consumers, the Zune «Social» is also Good enjoyable, enabling by yourself uncover many others with shared preferences and turning out to be friends with them. Your self then can listen in direction of a playlist crafted centered on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening towards, which is also interesting. Individuals fearful with privacy will be relieved in the direction of know yourself can avert the general public against viewing your individual listening practices if by yourself hence acquire.

  260. Sorry for the large research, but I’m truly loving the fresh new Zune, and hope this, as nicely as the Fantastic testimonials some other These incorporate prepared, will assistance your self choose if it is the immediately decision for your self.

  261. I’ll gear this critique toward Two products of us citizens: current Zune property owners who are contemplating an up grade, and human beings striving to decide concerning a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players significance looking at out there, including the Sony Walkman X, however I anticipate this offers your self sufficient details to make an aware conclusion of the Zune vs avid gamers other than the iPod line as effectively.)

  262. Zune and iPod: Most humans review the Zune in the direction of the Contact, however at the time viewing how slim and incredibly very low and light-weight it is, I consider it in direction of be a really special hybrid that combines properties of both of those the Touch and the Nano. It is incredibly colourful and stunning OLED exhibit is a little lesser than the contact screen, still the participant by itself feels fairly a little bit lesser and lighter. It weighs concerning 2/3 as a lot, and is substantially lesser within width and peak, while being merely a hair thicker.

  263. great put up, very informative. I wonder why the opposite specialists of this sector do not realize this. You should proceed your writing. I am confident, you have a great readers’ base already!

  264. Amongst me and my spouse we’ve owned further more MP3 gamers over the a long time than I can rely, together with Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the ultimate pair yrs I have fixed down toward just one line of avid gamers. Why? Because I was happy in the direction of take a look at how well-designed and enjoyment to employ the service of the underappreciated (and greatly mocked) Zunes are.

  265. Between me and my spouse we’ve owned excess MP3 gamers higher than the several years than I can rely, together with Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and so forth. But, the previous few yrs I’ve fixed down to 1 line of players. Why? For the reason that I was satisfied toward obtain how well-designed and exciting to use the underappreciated (and broadly mocked) Zunes are.

  266. If you happen to be nevertheless on the fence: get your beloved earphones, thoughts down toward a Least complicated Obtain and inquire toward plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which a single appears superior to your self, and which interface helps make you smile a lot more. Then you’ll know which is immediately for you.

  267. Zune and iPod: Most individuals look at the Zune towards the Touch, but soon after seeing how skinny and remarkably reduced and gentle it is, I acquire it to be a really exceptional hybrid that combines attributes of both of those the Touch and the Nano. It really is Quite vibrant and magnificent OLED exhibit is a little smaller sized than the contact screen, nevertheless the player alone feels Very a little bit smaller sized and lighter. It weighs over 2/3 as much, and is significantly scaled-down within just width and top, despite the fact that staying only a hair thicker.

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  269. The Zune concentrates upon staying a Transportable Media Player. Not a world-wide-web browser. Not a recreation machine. Perhaps inside of the foreseeable future it’ll do even much better inside of those areas, still for by now it really is a remarkable direction to arrange and listen to your songs and motion pictures, and is with out peer within just that respect. The iPod’s benefits are its website viewing and programs. If individuals reliable a lot more compelling, maybe it is your excellent selection.

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