Грузия на автобусе

Отправляясь в путешествие летом 2012г, о Грузии я знала не больше, чем любой среднестатистический украинец. Грузия — это горы, море, фрукты, Саакашвили. Пожалуй, всё…

Прежде чем начать рассказ о стране, оговорюсь — это был автобусный тур, первый из двух в моей жизни путешественника, о нем я упоминала в этой заметке.

Условия проживания обещались групповые и периодические палаточные, зато бюджетно, весело и познавательно. Это путешествие мы разделили с подругой, и 8 дней 9 ночей познавали гордую и горную страну Грузия вместе.

Стартовали из Запорожья. При погрузке в автобус обращаю внимание, что большая часть отправившихся в этот тур – женщины возраста 40+ и мысли о том, как провести две ночи в автобусе так, чтоб на утро ничего не болело и не скрипело, отпадают сами по себе.

Приятной неожиданностью стало отсутствие визового режима. На границе нам поставили только штамп в загранпаспорт и пожелали доброго пути. Там же мы поменяли деньги (евро, доллары, рубли) на национальную валюту – лари.

Российскую границу проходили долго, часа три. Хотя в миграционных картах ясно указали: цель визита — транзит, принимающая сторона – Грузия. Россияне устроили досмотр сумок, провизии, автобуса. Приходила собака, искала по запаху наркотики. В общем, это был самый пристальный досмотр.

8 июля 2012 6.00

При въезде в первый населенный пункт – Степанцминда (в 1921—2007 годы назывался Казбеги), смотрите в правую сторону. Там увидите величественную гору Казбек, высотою 5033,8 метров.

Первая остановка в Грузии – поселок Гергети, 24 км от границы. Дорога в Грузии разочаровывает с первых же километров пути. Ее просто нет! Неровная грунтовка с неосвещенными тоннелями. Жесть. Мы рассматривали горные пейзажи и пытались отвлечься от трясущихся сидений. Две ночи в автобусе, восьмичасовая прогулка по Кисловодску (по международным правилам автобусу требовался отстой, а водителям отдых) усиливали желание как можно скорее припасть к грузинской земле.

Заказали машины подъема («Нивы» и джипы «Тойота») и всей группой отправились по горному серпантину вверх к Гергети Тринити Самэба – церкви святой Троицы. Только рожденный в горном ауле грузин способен при быстрой езде по таким грунтовым узкоколейкам сохранить жизнь себе и своим пассажирам. Нас кидало в разные стороны, было страшно, но мертвой хваткой вцепившись в сиденья, наверх мы добрались в целости и сохранности.

Эта местность на карте обозначена как «Степансминда», в честь пророка Степана (названого впоследствии Святым), который предрек оползень, предупредил всех жителей села о грядущей опасности, они покинули свои жилища и, таким образом, спаслись. Нынешний поселок StepanSminda расположен сверху присыпанного прежнего поселения.

Надеваем балахоны и платки – только в таком виде женщина может зайти в церковь. Храм построен XIV веке. Рядом средневековая колокольня. Внутри храм аскетичен. Фресок нет, даже штукатурки нет, стены сложены из каменных блоков. Внутри темновато. Электричества внутри храма нет, а окна очень узкие. Фотографировать нельзя. Существует поверье: тот, кто хочет замолить свои грехи, должен приползти в храм на коленях. А это непросто —  2170 м над уровнем моря, на минуточку.

Вниз смотреть страшно.  Моросящий дождь усиливает желание завершить прослушивание старинных легенд и войти в церковь. В таких древних церквях с намоленными иконами ощущаешь себя ближе к Богу. Нет пафоса. Никакого золота и ковров. Наш гид объясняет, что при Советской власти все стены церкви были забелены известью, и спустя годы лики святых на иконах проявились. Задерживаемся у каждой, ставим свечи, ведем молчаливый диалог. Сюда приходят люди набожные, разной национальности и путь в несколько тысяч километров — для них не преграда.

Делаем памятные снимки и пока небеса не разгневались и дорогу не размыло, съезжаем вниз.

После обеда идем гулять по поселку, заходим в музей этого самого Степана, покупаем билет и весь двухэтажный музей в нашем распоряжении.  Видно, что хозяйская рука не касалась экспонатов со времен Второй мировой. За 2 лари  можно везде ходить, фотографироваться, касаться предметов. Все по очереди пытаемся изобразить Моцарта, извлечь звуки из старинного инструмента с залипшими клавишами.

Гуляем дальше, находим рынок с ароматными персиками, абрикосами (все по 1 лари за 1 кг). Покупаем, моем, едим. Все фрукты привозные, т.к. в этой местности особенная погода, и в середине июля на здешних деревьях только начинает краснеть черешня. Люди, в целом, живут бедно. Об этом свидетельствуют экономия электричества (если в магазин заходит покупатель, продавец включает свет, а так сидит в полутьме) и внешний вид местных. Но это никак не отражается на пресловутом грузинском гостеприимстве.

По поселку разлетается слух об украинских туристах, проехавших автобусом полторы тысячи километров, чтоб увидеть Грузию. Каждый уважающий себя грузин пытается затащить нас к себе в таверну/магазин/двор и угостить вином. Покупаем чачу (знаменитый грузинский виноградный самогон ~ 50˚ по 11 лари за 2 литра) и вино (ударение на первом слоге). Причем, и вино и чачу можно приобрести в любом магазине. Абсолютно в любом! И не важно, что на прилавках овощи или какой-то другой товар. Вы только задайте вопрос продавцу. И тут же откидывается коврик и из «волшебной» коробки появляются разлитые по пластиковым бутылкам напитки :-)

Идет дождь, собираемся под крышей хостела, слушаем бесконечные тосты, пьем. Появляются иностранцы, с помощью чачи знакомимся и налаживаем интернациональный язык.  Удивляемся, как много туристов съехалось в этот горный аул. Здесь и американцы, и итальянцы, и поляки, и голландцы, и эстонцы. С рюкзаками и туда же, к церкви. Знакомимся с российскими дельтапланеристами (живущими здесь же в гест-хаусе), которые колесят по Грузии, останавливаются то тут, то там и зарабатывают себе на жизнь любимым делом.

Дождь прекратился, но прогноз погоды неутешительный. Утром нас ждет переезд в Тбилиси — столицу Грузии.

Если хотите уютно и недорого поселиться в Казбеги, рекомендую хостел  Красный камень.

Почитайте отзывы на сайте Букинг, его все рекомендуют. Зачёт!

По теме Грузия:   Пешком по Тбилиси    Мцхета — древняя столица Грузии    По Тбилиси на автобусе    Военно-грузинская дорога    Пещера Цхалтубо    Скальный город Уплисцихе    Черный пляж в Уреках    Боржоми — город-курорт    Гори — отчий дом Иосифа    Атмосферный город Кутаиси    Ночной Батуми

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