Таллин. Город-загадка

В самом названии города есть загадка. При произношении эстонской столицы вслух рисуется какая-то особая картинка. Чувственная, далекая, немного холодная и высокомерная. Красивая и чужая. С высокими шпилями, картинными домами, сладким ликером и вежливыми жителями. Проверим, какой Таллин на самом деле.

Таллинн полон легенд и преданий о влюбленных монахах и рыцарях-призраках, здесь справлял свадьбу сам дьявол, черная кошка спасла город от пожара, а плита над местным Дон- Жуаном в Домском соборе помогает сбыться романтическим мечтам.

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В Таллине живем в хостеле Old Town Hostel Alur  в самом центре. Большой зал с телевизором, кухня, бесплатный чай-кофе — это из плюсов. И месторасположение. Персонал говорит на английском, с русским туго. Хостел вы еще увидите на видео, мы там день рождения праздновали и посиделки устраивали.

Когда я взялась написать эту заметку, задумалась — как правильно пишется название эстонской столицы? Пожалуй, ни одно другое географическое название не вызывает столь неоднозначной путаницы в русском языке. В Эстонии во всех русскоязычных официальных изданиях встречается практически только один вариант — «Таллинн».  Википедия, как и большинство современных русских путеводителей по Эстонии используют топоним «Таллин». В официальных государственных документах также используется только такой вариант — ТАЛЛИН.

Таллин хмурый и дождливый. Из сумок достаем самые теплые вещи и зонты.

В этом городе наш экскурсовод – мужчина. Узнает, что мы из Украины и уже посетили Литву и Латвию. Говорит, что маршрут построили правильно. По нарастающей. Таллин — город сложный, красивый и старинный.

В старый город попадаем через Вирусские ворота. Ратушная площадь, Ратуша с флюгером Старый Томас на верхушке башни. На крышах города множество флюгеров и кованых изделий, имеющих свою историю и легенду возникновения. Их действительно очень много! А все потому, что Таллин – город купцов и ремесленников. У каждого богатого купца имелся свой корабль, и им необходимо было знать направление ветра. Но чем богаче был купец, тем вычурней у него был флюгер на крыше.

Нашли центральный камень, стоя на котором можно увидеть все пять шпилей города.

По следам Андрея Беднякова взобрались на верхушку башни святого Олафа, откуда открывается чудесный вид на город. Когда-то эта башня считалась самым высоким сооружением в мире. На сегодняшний день это самое высокое здание в Таллине. Вход в церковь бесплатный, подъем на башню – 2 евро.

Экскурсовод по секрету сообщает, что самый лучший вид на Таллин открывается со смотровой площадки «Radisson Blu Sky Hotel» на крыше.

— Но как мы туда попадем?

— Очень просто. Это не запрещено.

На самом деле, все так и получилось. Когда экскурсия закончилась, мы отправились к отелю. Пересекли холл и на лифте поднялись на самый верх. Абсолютно бесплатные чудесные виды города с высоты! Только дождик немного портил картинку. Запомните этот трюк. Будете в Таллине, смело идите на крышу дорогого отеля ;-)

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Посещаем одну из старейших аптек Европы. Существует легенда о «лекарственном снадобье», изобретенном в XV веке, и это лекарство известно в Таллинне вот уже на протяжении пяти веков. Увидеть его можно в Ратушной аптеке. Сама же аптека считается самой старинной действующей аптекой во всем мире. В отдельной комнате аптеки находится музейная выставка аптекарского инвентаря и лекарственных препаратов XVII – XX веков. Мы узнали о ней благодаря передаче «Орел и Решка». Сушенные ежики, забавные рецепты – все это там есть.

Переходим на улицу Пикк к дому Черноголовых. Нам показывают самый маленький дом в городе, встроенный в церковь, шириной в 2 метра.

Мы посетили удивительное заведение — галерею марципана по адресу Пикк 40. Увидели как расписывают сладкие фигурки, есть зал для лепки посетителями. Если вы путешествуете с детьми – не пропустите это волшебное место.

Марципан — с итальянского буквально Мартовский хлеб. Это вид кондитерского изделия из миндаля, сахарного сиропа или сахарной пудры. Родиной марципана считается Италия, позже Франция, Германия и Австрия. В некоторых источниках, как родина марципана упоминается и Эстония. Это связано со старой ратушной аптекой. Дело в том, что марципан считался лекарством от плохого настроения. Полагаю, он лучше сочетался с бокалом вина, нежели вяленая лягушка или сушеный ежик. В 1702г в Ревеле (Таллинне) появился цех Кондитеров. Самое старое, до сих пор действующее кафе «Maiasmokk» (Лакомка) Георг Штуде открыл в 1864г по адресу Пикк 16. Там и теперь находится небольшой музей-магазин марципана, где фигурки расписывают вручную. На видео есть кадры из этого магазинчика.

Помимо стекла, витражей, янтаря и прочих сувениров из Таллина везут ликеры. Ванна Таллин был нами опробован в первый же вечер. ( Vana Tallinn — Старый Таллинн) — эстонский тёмно-коричневый крепкий ликёр со вкусом рома. Был изобретен в 1962г. Выпускается в 3-х вариантах (40, 45 и 50 градусов), вкус подчёркивается различными натуральными добавками, в том числе цитрусовыми маслами, корицей, ванилью и ромом, придающим ликёру характерный, немного экзотичный бархатистый вкус.

По следам Андрея Беднякова обедаем в колоритном месте на ул.Пикк – харчевне «Дракон III». Внутри темно, как средневековом замке. Поварихи устало реагируют на возгласы: «А мы вас по телеку видели»

Мы не сотые и даже не тысячные туристы. После выхода передачи в эфир, этот ресторанчик превратился в место поломничества любителей путешествовать. Здесь все так же вкусно, сытно и дешево. Единственное, персонал просит не пользоваться вспышками на фотоапаратах. А без вспышек темно, снимок не сделаешь.

Таллин многообразный, на каждом шагу пестрит историей и достопримечательностями. На прощание мы говорим с гидом о современном быте горожан, как и что изменилось в их стране после вступления в Евросоюз. Удивляемся модным нововведениям, например, записи к врачу по электронной почте или оплате парковки на специальном сайте.

Возвращаемся в Old Town Hostel Alur, знакомимся с другими туристами, слушаем импровизированный концерт на осетинском народном музыкальном инструменте.

Самые отважные возвращаются в «Radisson» и наслаждаются вечерними видами Эстонской столицы.

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P.S. это был автобусный тур с группой по странам Прибалтики 22.05.-06.06. 2014

Также по теме ПРИБАЛТИКА:  Морской музей в летной гавани   Гора крестов   Прибалтика на автобусе    Рига — самая веселая столица    Каунасский замок    Музей чертей    Рундальский дворец   Литва. Шауляй    Музей народного быта  Белая лебедь Каунаса    Вильнюс на велосипедах     Республика Ужупис    Вильнюс. Прогулка по городу    Тракайский замок     Юрмала — столица юмора

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