Таллин. Город-загадка

В самом названии города есть загадка. При произношении эстонской столицы вслух рисуется какая-то особая картинка. Чувственная, далекая, немного холодная и высокомерная. Красивая и чужая. С высокими шпилями, картинными домами, сладким ликером и вежливыми жителями. Проверим, какой Таллин на самом деле.

Таллинн полон легенд и преданий о влюбленных монахах и рыцарях-призраках, здесь справлял свадьбу сам дьявол, черная кошка спасла город от пожара, а плита над местным Дон- Жуаном в Домском соборе помогает сбыться романтическим мечтам.

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В Таллине живем в хостеле Old Town Hostel Alur  в самом центре. Большой зал с телевизором, кухня, бесплатный чай-кофе — это из плюсов. И месторасположение. Персонал говорит на английском, с русским туго. Хостел вы еще увидите на видео, мы там день рождения праздновали и посиделки устраивали.

Когда я взялась написать эту заметку, задумалась — как правильно пишется название эстонской столицы? Пожалуй, ни одно другое географическое название не вызывает столь неоднозначной путаницы в русском языке. В Эстонии во всех русскоязычных официальных изданиях встречается практически только один вариант — «Таллинн».  Википедия, как и большинство современных русских путеводителей по Эстонии используют топоним «Таллин». В официальных государственных документах также используется только такой вариант — ТАЛЛИН.

Таллин хмурый и дождливый. Из сумок достаем самые теплые вещи и зонты.

В этом городе наш экскурсовод – мужчина. Узнает, что мы из Украины и уже посетили Литву и Латвию. Говорит, что маршрут построили правильно. По нарастающей. Таллин — город сложный, красивый и старинный.

В старый город попадаем через Вирусские ворота. Ратушная площадь, Ратуша с флюгером Старый Томас на верхушке башни. На крышах города множество флюгеров и кованых изделий, имеющих свою историю и легенду возникновения. Их действительно очень много! А все потому, что Таллин – город купцов и ремесленников. У каждого богатого купца имелся свой корабль, и им необходимо было знать направление ветра. Но чем богаче был купец, тем вычурней у него был флюгер на крыше.

Нашли центральный камень, стоя на котором можно увидеть все пять шпилей города.

По следам Андрея Беднякова взобрались на верхушку башни святого Олафа, откуда открывается чудесный вид на город. Когда-то эта башня считалась самым высоким сооружением в мире. На сегодняшний день это самое высокое здание в Таллине. Вход в церковь бесплатный, подъем на башню – 2 евро.

Экскурсовод по секрету сообщает, что самый лучший вид на Таллин открывается со смотровой площадки «Radisson Blu Sky Hotel» на крыше.

— Но как мы туда попадем?

— Очень просто. Это не запрещено.

На самом деле, все так и получилось. Когда экскурсия закончилась, мы отправились к отелю. Пересекли холл и на лифте поднялись на самый верх. Абсолютно бесплатные чудесные виды города с высоты! Только дождик немного портил картинку. Запомните этот трюк. Будете в Таллине, смело идите на крышу дорогого отеля ;-)

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Посещаем одну из старейших аптек Европы. Существует легенда о «лекарственном снадобье», изобретенном в XV веке, и это лекарство известно в Таллинне вот уже на протяжении пяти веков. Увидеть его можно в Ратушной аптеке. Сама же аптека считается самой старинной действующей аптекой во всем мире. В отдельной комнате аптеки находится музейная выставка аптекарского инвентаря и лекарственных препаратов XVII – XX веков. Мы узнали о ней благодаря передаче «Орел и Решка». Сушенные ежики, забавные рецепты – все это там есть.

Переходим на улицу Пикк к дому Черноголовых. Нам показывают самый маленький дом в городе, встроенный в церковь, шириной в 2 метра.

Мы посетили удивительное заведение — галерею марципана по адресу Пикк 40. Увидели как расписывают сладкие фигурки, есть зал для лепки посетителями. Если вы путешествуете с детьми – не пропустите это волшебное место.

Марципан — с итальянского буквально Мартовский хлеб. Это вид кондитерского изделия из миндаля, сахарного сиропа или сахарной пудры. Родиной марципана считается Италия, позже Франция, Германия и Австрия. В некоторых источниках, как родина марципана упоминается и Эстония. Это связано со старой ратушной аптекой. Дело в том, что марципан считался лекарством от плохого настроения. Полагаю, он лучше сочетался с бокалом вина, нежели вяленая лягушка или сушеный ежик. В 1702г в Ревеле (Таллинне) появился цех Кондитеров. Самое старое, до сих пор действующее кафе «Maiasmokk» (Лакомка) Георг Штуде открыл в 1864г по адресу Пикк 16. Там и теперь находится небольшой музей-магазин марципана, где фигурки расписывают вручную. На видео есть кадры из этого магазинчика.

Помимо стекла, витражей, янтаря и прочих сувениров из Таллина везут ликеры. Ванна Таллин был нами опробован в первый же вечер. ( Vana Tallinn — Старый Таллинн) — эстонский тёмно-коричневый крепкий ликёр со вкусом рома. Был изобретен в 1962г. Выпускается в 3-х вариантах (40, 45 и 50 градусов), вкус подчёркивается различными натуральными добавками, в том числе цитрусовыми маслами, корицей, ванилью и ромом, придающим ликёру характерный, немного экзотичный бархатистый вкус.

По следам Андрея Беднякова обедаем в колоритном месте на ул.Пикк – харчевне «Дракон III». Внутри темно, как средневековом замке. Поварихи устало реагируют на возгласы: «А мы вас по телеку видели»

Мы не сотые и даже не тысячные туристы. После выхода передачи в эфир, этот ресторанчик превратился в место поломничества любителей путешествовать. Здесь все так же вкусно, сытно и дешево. Единственное, персонал просит не пользоваться вспышками на фотоапаратах. А без вспышек темно, снимок не сделаешь.

Таллин многообразный, на каждом шагу пестрит историей и достопримечательностями. На прощание мы говорим с гидом о современном быте горожан, как и что изменилось в их стране после вступления в Евросоюз. Удивляемся модным нововведениям, например, записи к врачу по электронной почте или оплате парковки на специальном сайте.

Возвращаемся в Old Town Hostel Alur, знакомимся с другими туристами, слушаем импровизированный концерт на осетинском народном музыкальном инструменте.

Самые отважные возвращаются в «Radisson» и наслаждаются вечерними видами Эстонской столицы.

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P.S. это был автобусный тур с группой по странам Прибалтики 22.05.-06.06. 2014

Также по теме ПРИБАЛТИКА:  Морской музей в летной гавани   Гора крестов   Прибалтика на автобусе    Рига — самая веселая столица    Каунасский замок    Музей чертей    Рундальский дворец   Литва. Шауляй    Музей народного быта  Белая лебедь Каунаса    Вильнюс на велосипедах     Республика Ужупис    Вильнюс. Прогулка по городу    Тракайский замок     Юрмала — столица юмора

341 thoughts on “Таллин. Город-загадка

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  245. Among me and my partner we have owned additional MP3 players previously mentioned the yrs than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and so on. But, the very last number of many years I’ve solved down to just one line of gamers. Why? Due to the fact I was pleased towards locate how well-designed and fun in direction of seek the services of the underappreciated (and broadly mocked) Zunes are.

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  248. The Zune concentrates on remaining a Portable Media Player. Not a net browser. Not a video game machine. Maybe within just the long term it’s going to do even much better within just individuals areas, but for presently it really is a Good path in the direction of organize and listen to your songs and flicks, and is with no peer inside of that respect. The iPod’s pros are its world wide web browsing and programs. If these solid further powerful, maybe it is your great decision.

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  250. Arms down, Apple’s application retail store wins via a mile. It is a large alternative of all kinds of programs vs a fairly disappointed alternative of a handful for Zune. Microsoft contains plans, particularly within the realm of video games, but I’m not of course I’d will need in the direction of bet upon the long term if this function is considerable in the direction of yourself. The iPod is a significantly improved preference inside that situation.

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  252. Involving me and my husband we have owned additional MP3 gamers about the yrs than I can rely, together with Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last couple of yrs I have settled down toward just one line of gamers. Why? Due to the fact I was joyful toward come across how well-designed and exciting toward hire the underappreciated (and commonly mocked) Zunes are.

  253. Amongst me and my husband we’ve owned excess MP3 gamers previously mentioned the a long time than I can rely, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, and so forth. But, the remaining few decades I’ve solved down towards a person line of avid gamers. Why? Because I was pleased in direction of check out how well-designed and enjoyment towards seek the services of the underappreciated (and greatly mocked) Zunes are.

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  255. Among me and my husband we’ve owned further more MP3 avid gamers higher than the several years than I can depend, which include Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etcetera. But, the previous number of decades I’ve fixed down in the direction of one particular line of gamers. Why? Due to the fact I was delighted to take a look at how well-designed and enjoyable toward seek the services of the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

  256. Apple presently incorporates Rhapsody as an application, which is a excellent begin, but it is previously hampered via the incapacity in direction of store regionally upon your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps little bit price tag. If this modifications, then it will fairly negate this benefit for the Zune, but the 10 audio for each month will even now be a large plus inside Zune Pass’ desire.

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  260. I am going to gear this analyze in the direction of Two layouts of men and women: recent Zune householders who are looking at an enhance, and people today making an attempt to choose between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other avid gamers worthy of thinking of out there, together with the Sony Walkman X, but I expect this features on your own more than enough facts towards make an mindful option of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as effectively.)

  261. I’ll devices this analyze to 2 products of people in america: current Zune owners who are thinking of an up grade, and persons making an attempt to choose between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other avid gamers well worth thinking about out there, together with the Sony Walkman X, nevertheless I expect this gives oneself enough details in the direction of deliver an informed determination of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as very well.)

  262. Palms down, Apple’s application retail outlet wins via a mile. It truly is a massive final decision of all varieties of apps vs a very not happy choice of a handful for Zune. Microsoft is made up of systems, primarily within the realm of video games, however I’m not indeed I would have to have towards wager upon the long term if this characteristic is important in direction of on your own. The iPod is a substantially superior determination within just that scenario.

  263. The fresh Zune browser is surprisingly favourable, nonetheless not as Excellent as the iPod’s. It will work very well, yet isn’t really as immediate as Safari, and incorporates a clunkier interface. If by yourself occasionally method on working with the website browser that’s not an issue, yet if you might be developing in direction of study the world-wide-web alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s greater screen and far better browser may possibly be vital.

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  274. I will tools this overview in direction of Two designs of people in america: present-day Zune property owners who are looking at an improve, and us citizens trying in the direction of determine between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other gamers really worth taking into consideration out there, together with the Sony Walkman X, yet I hope this provides your self enough details to deliver an knowledgeable determination of the Zune vs gamers other than the iPod line as nicely.)

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