Рига. Самая веселая столица

Рига, пожалуй, самый веселый город Прибалтики. Два дня в столице Латвии выпали на уик-енд. То, что Рига never sleep мы поняли уже при заселении в хостел.

Нам корректно объяснили, что данное заведение позиционируется как молодежное пространство, и нашим сеньорам не очень рады. Мы дружно обещали много гулять и возвращаться домой только к ужину, чтоб не нарушать атмосферу. Администратор предупредил, что веселье начинается сегодня вечером: в нашем хостеле будет проводиться танцевальная вечеринка, на которую нас особо не приглашали. Само отельное заведение находится в удачном районе города, но рекомендовать его я не могу. Не понравилось :-|

Есть даже хостел для животных :-)

Сам хостел имел довольно странное расположение: справа и слева – входные двери в питейные заведения. Наша — ни имеет никаких особенных отличий. Легко перепутать!

Чтоб понять этот город лучше, пошли гулять.

22.00 летом в Риге достаточно светло. Вечер превращался в ночь, а народ продолжал гулять. Казалось, здесь проходит непрерывный пивной марафон. Толпы молодежи шатаются с громкими криками из бара в бар и мимо ходом пристают к прохожим. На главной площади проходило публичное мероприятие, мы заглянули на шум, посмотрели, потоптались, похлопали в ладоши. Ровно в полночь вернулись в хостел. Там было непривычно тихо. Где же танцевальная вечеринка? Мы заняли зону отдыха, раздобыли гитару и затянули красивые украинские песни. Вскоре явился администратор, гневно отобрал гитару и со словами «noise control» удалился. Мы решили, что народное творчество у них не в почете и разбрелись по комнатам спать.

Утром следующего дня после завтрака экскурсию по старому городу проводила колоритная дама в рваных колготках и в панаме. Рассказывала она интересно, поэтому мелкие недочеты образа мы ей дружно простили.

Рига – одна из старейших столиц Европы, основана в 1201 году. Исторический центр Риги внесен в Список всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО, благодаря своей уникальной застройке и более 100 сохранившимся историческим зданиям. Конечно, здесь есть где разгуляться экскурсоводу.  Возник новый город благодаря миссионерской деятельности рыцарей Тевтонского ордена. Мы слушали историю о камнях, привозимых мореплавателями, как пошлину за возможность проплыть мимо. Благодаря таким «налогам» город рос и развивался вширь. Каждый дом в старой части города оснащен чердаком, причем, эти подсобные помещения могут уходить ввысь на 3-4 этажа. Легенд, как в любом старом городе, у Риги куча. Например, чердак с приведениями, дом с котами, история Черноголовых, и почему их дом охраняет средневековый рыцарь, подземные ходы под Даугавой. Ой, всех не вспомнить :-?

В самом центре Старой Риги есть дом, окутанный самой красивой легендой. Она-то и запомнилась.

Было или не было, но в средние века у одного отца по имени Тумшайс Алус была красавица дочь, прекрасная Гарумзиме. Отец буквально боготворил дочь, следил за тем, чтобы та не водила дружбу с кем попало, блюла девичью честь и берегла себя для будущего солидного супруга. Поселил Тумшайс свою дочь под крышей дома, чтобы никто её и не видел.

Но как-то раз в доме засорились трубы и суровый отец был вынужден вызвать трубочиста. Пришёл красивый парень Зилайс Димантс. Случайно он столкнулся на лестнице с красавицей Гарумзиме. Амур пустил свою стрелу и пронзил два сердца одновременно.

Молодые стали встречаться. Каждую ночь Зилайс Димантс поднимался по своей лесенке трубочиста до второго этажа дома, а дальше поднимался по веревке, которую спускала для него девушка. И влюбленные проводили в беседах целые ночи.

Но однажды отец девушки был разбужен мяуканьем котов. Выглянув в окно, он увидел приставленную лестницу и веревку. Тумшайс всё понял. И тогда он схватил огромные садовые ножницы, затаился у окна, и как только юноша стал спускаться, перерезал веревку. Юный трубочист погиб. А безутешная Гарумзиме бросилась из окна на мостовую и тоже разбилась. И только черные коты радостно урчали, сделав своё черное дело.

С тех пор каждую ночь ровно в три часа, когда погибли влюбленные, в этом месте раздаётся сдавленный крик юноши, а затем слышится зловещее урчание котов…

Шедевры архитектуры описывать смысла нет, надо смотреть. Перечислю: христорождественский кафедральный Собор, церковь Святого Петра с единственной часовой стрелкой на циферблате, собор Святого Иакова, площадь Растлаукумс и т.д.

Рига – нескучный город. Уличные музыканты играют гимн Украины, своими децибелами заглушая экскурсовода. С соседнего кафе Donegan´s вываливается группа смешно одетых мужчин, тормозят пешеходное движение и начинают танцевать. Их не смущают прохожие, они пьют пиво и веселятся. Возможно, это был какой-то спор или мальчишник, не известно, но нам тоже было весело :-D

Возле нашего хостела опять тусуется молодежь. Решаемся зайти внутрь питейного заведения (соседняя дверь) посмотреть: чем оно так манит туристов. Сражает оригинальность интерьера – вместо барной стойки старенький микроавтобус, на стене панно из пустых бутылок. Цены доступные, угощаемся местным пивом и зависаем сами на несколько часов. Барменши анонсируют вечернюю программу со стриптизом от официанток, и мы понимаем, почему вокруг этого заведения постоянно толпятся мужчины.

Путешествуем дальше, находим места в Риге, где снимали сериал о Шерлоке Холмсе. Фанатам фильма о гениальном сыщике будет интересно здесь побывать. Мы зашли в отель, в интерьерах которого снимали сериал «Семнадцать мгновений весны». Администраторы приветливо улыбаются и развершают фотографировать сколько нам угодно. Никто не торопит, не намекает и не хмурится. Ясно ведь, что мы у них далеко не первые, но к туристам у прибалтов особенное отношение. Нам нравится.

Очень подробный отчет и карту города с локациями съемок можно найти здесь спасибо автору за труд.

Часть группы отправилась на Заячий остров. Там находится Рижская телебашня со смотровой площадкой.

Часть группы отправилась на рынок с янтарем, еще одна часть побывала на спортивных соревнованиях по велосипедному спорту.

Это хороший был день, местами солнечный и насыщенный.

Колоритный средневековый ресторан очаровал всех. Этим подземельям около 800 лет, а откопали их совсем недавно. Он расположен на самой узкой улице Старой Риги, называется ROZENGRĀLS. Вы его не пропустите. На входе дежурят рыцари в латах и бесплатно фотографируются с туристами.

Адрес: Улица Розена 1

Если вы не планируете пировать в этом заведении, просто зайдите внутрь на экскурсию. Походите по лабиринтам в неярком отблеске свечей. Почувствуйте старинную атмосферу. Интерьер создан с любовью, продумана каждая деталь. Очень красиво, рекомендую.

Рига — очень красивый город. Архитектурная идиллия, величие города и масштаб открываются со смотровой площадки. Когда видишь такую красоту, понимаешь, что уик-енда катастрофически мало, чтобы успеть познакомиться со столицей Латвии.

111 112 123А еще в Риге есть памятник бременским музыкантам.

Как известно, герои сказки — осёл, собака, кот и петух идут в Бремен, чтобы стать музыкантами, но по дороге они сталкиваются с разбойниками, которых пугают своим пением, встав друг на друга. Разбойники в страхе убегают, а музыканты остаются жить в их доме.

При чем здесь персонажи сказки братьев Гримм в латвийской столице, спросите вы? Дело в том, что г.Бремен (Германия) является побратимом г.Рига (Латвия).

Первый памятник бременским музыкантам был создан немецким скульптором Герхардом Марксом в 1951 для города Бремен. Бронзовая скульптура представляет главных героев сказки, стоящих друг на друге и поющих песню. Памятник стал символом города.

По мотивам скульптуры, скульптор Крист Баумгартель создал похожий, но оригинальный памятник в 1990 году. Бремен, побратим Риги, подарил столице Латвии этот памятник.

По непроверенной информации считается хорошей приметой прикоснуться к носу осла, а также допрыгнуть до петуха. Не знаю как там с исполнением желаний, факты не засвидетельствованы, но носы у всех трех животных изрядно натерты и блестят.

Адрес: возле ул. Скарню, между церковью Святого Петра и комплексом «Konventa sētа».

Рига — чудесный город. Веселый и удивительный. Мы нашли этому еще одно подтверждение. Надпись «Здесь был Петя» появилась в Риге благодаря Петру I. Удивлены? Мы тоже. Возможно, любители настенных уличных автографов взяли с великого правителя пример и эта «мода» дошла до наших дней? Тем не менее, столица Латвии такой надписью гордится и даже повесила в почетную рамку ;-)

Что еще посмотреть в Латвии кроме ее столицы — я напишу в другой заметке.

P.S. это был автобусный тур с группой по странам Прибалтики 22.05.-06.06. 2014

Также по теме ПРИБАЛТИКА:  Морской музей в летной гавани   Таллин. Город-загадка   Прибалтика на автобусе  Каунасский замок    Музей чертей  Рундальский дворец    Гора крестов    Литва. Шауляй    Музей народного быта  Белая лебедь Каунаса    Вильнюс на велосипедах     Республика Ужупис  Вильнюс. Прогулка по городу    Тракайский замок     Юрмала — столица юмора

295 thoughts on “Рига. Самая веселая столица

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