Республика УЖУПИС

Есть в Вильнюсе одно необычное место, называемое республикой. Оно непохоже на привычные нам городские районы или кварталы. Ужупис — это улицы и дома, переулки и парки. Это полуостров города, облюбованный литовской богемой и провозглашенный ни много ни мало — республикой.

Ужупис —  один из старейших кварталов Вильнюса, находится в двух шагах от Старого города на небольшом полуострове, очертанном рекой Виленкой (Вильняле).

В Ужуписе есть свой флаг, гимн и конституция. Географическое положение отображено в первой статье Конституции Ужуписа: «Человек имеет право жить рядом с Вильняле, а Вильняле — течь рядом с человеком». Именно поэтому на русский «Ужупис» переводится как «Заречье». С одной стороны он отделён от Старого города рекой, с другой стороны окружён крутыми холмами и горой Трёх Крестов, а с третьей — промышленной зоной, построенной в советские времена.

Ужупис непонятный, безбашенный. И ты не сразу его воспринимаешь. Прислушиваешься к ощущения: нравится или нет?

DSC02506 DSC02509 DSC02510История многое проясняет.

С XVI века здесь, за рекой, селились ремесленники и городская беднота, тогда как все знатные горожане предпочитали жить в Старом городе. Подобный уклад не менялся на протяжении пяти веков. Это привело к тому, что в начале 90-х годов, после распада Советского Союза, Ужупис стал своеобразным вильнюсским гетто — районом, который местные жители предпочитали обходить стороной. Всё изменилось, когда в заброшенных домах поселилась люди искусства — поэты, музыканты, художники, режиссёры. Буквально за пару лет вильнюсская богема изменила Заречье до неузнаваемости: стены разрисовали граффити, на улицах установили скульптуры и арт-объекты, а в обветшалых домах открыли выставочные пространства, галереи, мастерские и кафе.

1 апреля 1997 года обитатели арт-района провозгласили независимую «Республику Ужупис» — со своим флагом, гимном, валютой, которая, правда, так и не была отпечатана. У крохотной республики с населением в семь тысяч жителей и площадью в 60 гектаров есть свой президент (режиссёр Ромас Лилейкис), четыре министра и консулы.

На самом деле Ужупис оказался небольшим районом с вкраплениями интересностей. Один предложением – это район контраста. Дорогих автомобилей и полуразрушенных зданий.

Мысль посетить этот колоритный район пришла после просмотра передачи «Орел и Решка», посвященной Вильнюсу. Но то, что мы увидели своими глазами отличалось от красивой телевизионной картинки. Посмотрите и вы :-)

Мы нашли то место, где ведущие нашей любимой передачи о путешествиях прятали бутылку со 100$, но там ее не оказалось. Естественно. Потому, мы соорудили свой клад и торжественно водрузили его на то же место. Пошутили немного. Надеюсь тот, кто найдет бутылку после нас, сильно не рассердиться 8-)

На улице Паупё (Paupio gatvė) почитали текст конституции, которая устанавливает права жителей: 41 пункт документа говорит о гуманизме, свободе, гордости и уважении. Последние три из них звучат как заповеди: «Не побеждай, не защищайся, не сдавайся».

Если знать немного историю или обычаи этих мест, будет интереснее. Бесцельно бродить по улочкам и фотографироваться – сильных впечатлений от района не получить.

Обычаи. Новый год здесь празднуют в марте, когда Виленка освобождается ото льда. Ещё есть День белых скатертей — второй день Пасхи, когда кафе не работает, но все горожане приходят на террасу и накрывают столы, приносят угощение, приглашая случайных прохожих. Есть День скворечников — в этот день поминают умерших. Дни ветра — это семь осенних суббот, в основном в ноябре, каждая из которых посвящена кино, музыке, поэзии, фотографии.

Название большинства заведений в Ужуписе строится по простой схеме: сначала идёт слово Užupio (Ужупё), а затем указывается тип заведения. Например, Užupio Picerija («Ужупё пиццерия»), где пиццу готовят в дровяной печи. Užupio kavinė («Ужупё кафе») — главное место встречи интеллигенции. Užupio klasika («Ужупе классика») — винный ресторан.

«Конституция Заречья», переведённая на 20 мировых языков и вывешенная на зеркальных пластинах на одной из улиц. Это просто достопримечательность, а не документ, имеющий реальную юридическую силу. Ужупис полностью подчиняется литовскому законодательству и платит все налоги в городскую казну.

Я думаю, вы уже сами для себя всё решили — стоит вам ехать в Вильнюс и бродить по району Ужупис или нет. Если ищете дешевое жилье, могу порекомендовать хостел, в котором останавливались мы — Fortuna. Расположен в центре города, есть парковка,  большая кухня, балкон-веранда, достаточное количество санузлов, в душевых — горячая вода. Карты города, чай/кофе – бесплатно. Очень приличное место!

P.S. это был автобусный тур с группой по странам Прибалтики 22.05.-06.06. 2014

Также по теме ПРИБАЛТИКА:  Морской музей в летной гавани   Таллин. Город-загадка   Прибалтика на автобусе    Рига — самая веселая столица    Каунасский замок    Музей чертей    Рундальский дворец   Литва. Шауляй    Музей народного быта  Белая лебедь Каунаса    Вильнюс на велосипедах   Гора крестов    Вильнюс. Прогулка по городу    Тракайский замок     Юрмала — столица юмора

 

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